jrsc on jdm gsr? Can I make it work?
Have a 94 jdm gsr in a 98 ek hx. I am about ready to buy a jrsc for it. It has a 8 psi pulley as well. I have to use the fmu to start with because no money for hondata. Jdm Gsr's compression I believe is 10.6/1. Is this to high for the 8 psi pulley on a stock engine? If it is I will get a 6 psi pulley, will the compression be to high then? It will be a summer daily driver and I want to be reliable. I will get a fuel pump and injectors as well. I have a tuner no where near me(northern Michigan) so I was going to buy a air fuel ratio by zeitronix to see how I am doing. I know I will have to get a fuel pressure regulator as well(b&M is what I have). Can I make it work on a jdm gsr tuning it myself with either a 6 or 8 psi pulley?
This supercharger is gonna go quick so give me an answer guys.
And I have searched "jdm jrsc", "jdm supercharger", "gsr supercharger", and so forth and thier wasn't to much useful information for a jdm gsr, quite a bit on itr's though.
I don't want to detonate and ruin a motor I paid 3 g's for is all.
Help me out guys,
Thanks
98civic94gsr
Also anything that I may have missed please feel free to add.
This supercharger is gonna go quick so give me an answer guys.
And I have searched "jdm jrsc", "jdm supercharger", "gsr supercharger", and so forth and thier wasn't to much useful information for a jdm gsr, quite a bit on itr's though.
I don't want to detonate and ruin a motor I paid 3 g's for is all.
Help me out guys,
Thanks
98civic94gsr
Also anything that I may have missed please feel free to add.
You should be fine. 8 psi is definatly do-able, and if you want to be even further on the safe side go get a cometic head gasket. That will drop your comp ratio down to about 9.7:1 I believe.
it will work fine... what sort of gas can you get up there?
are you running an OBD2 ecu right now? If you're OBD1, for the cost of an FMU you can get injectors... Crome is free and it's a whole hell of a lot like Hondata.
You don't need a fuel pressure regulator... the OEM one is good for lots of boost/power.
Zeitronix is a good wideband. You can definately tune your car with it.
are you running an OBD2 ecu right now? If you're OBD1, for the cost of an FMU you can get injectors... Crome is free and it's a whole hell of a lot like Hondata.
You don't need a fuel pressure regulator... the OEM one is good for lots of boost/power.
Zeitronix is a good wideband. You can definately tune your car with it.
10.6:1-9.7:1 seems like quite a jump but what do I know? I have never done anything like this so I really have no clue thats why I'm on here asking.
So that seems like a pretty easy way to lower the compression enough to be safe.
Is their a way to not detonate and keep my 10.6:1 compression?
Just don't really want to mess with the headgasket if I don't absolutely need to.
Thanks
98civic94gsr
So that seems like a pretty easy way to lower the compression enough to be safe.
Is their a way to not detonate and keep my 10.6:1 compression?
Just don't really want to mess with the headgasket if I don't absolutely need to.
Thanks
98civic94gsr
If the car is tuned right it won't ping...
Running on the JR FMU and all that junk, it *is* going to ping, at least at tip in.
BTW the JDM GSR has CR equivalent to the USDM ITR, which has a supercharger kit available straight from JR for use on pump gas.
Running on the JR FMU and all that junk, it *is* going to ping, at least at tip in.
BTW the JDM GSR has CR equivalent to the USDM ITR, which has a supercharger kit available straight from JR for use on pump gas.
Hell yeah thats exactly what I want to here.
I was reading your sig. Can you make me a custom ecu for this setup for a little extra umph? If so some info and cost would be great.
Thanks
98civic94gsr
I was reading your sig. Can you make me a custom ecu for this setup for a little extra umph? If so some info and cost would be great.
Thanks
98civic94gsr
I can do ecu chipping etc... but there is no way for anyone to make you a map that will run your car correctly unless they can tune it. I.e., wideband on the street or dyno. Base maps / maps from another car do not work.
Get the FMU in... and it will be fine for a little while. Just don't beat on it...
Then once you get your Zeitronix and read around a bit, I bet you'll be able to tune the car yourself on the street.
Get the FMU in... and it will be fine for a little while. Just don't beat on it...
Then once you get your Zeitronix and read around a bit, I bet you'll be able to tune the car yourself on the street.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the car is tuned right it won't ping...
Running on the JR FMU and all that junk, it *is* going to ping, at least at tip in.
BTW the JDM GSR has CR equivalent to the USDM ITR, which has a supercharger kit available straight from JR for use on pump gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You say I don't need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator the stock one is fine.
I thought that was part of how you tuned it with a wideband was to go up for down with the amount of fuel?
What is tip in?
Crome or Hondata will solve this though? Damn I don't have money for that too.
Can a really good all around mechanic/fabricator(chevy guy) who has no experience tuning an engine with forced induction and I do this without going to a dyno to make it reliable?
I can get "93" octane for $2.55 right now. High as ****!
Thanks again,
98civic94gsr
Running on the JR FMU and all that junk, it *is* going to ping, at least at tip in.
BTW the JDM GSR has CR equivalent to the USDM ITR, which has a supercharger kit available straight from JR for use on pump gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You say I don't need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator the stock one is fine.
I thought that was part of how you tuned it with a wideband was to go up for down with the amount of fuel?
What is tip in?
Crome or Hondata will solve this though? Damn I don't have money for that too.
Can a really good all around mechanic/fabricator(chevy guy) who has no experience tuning an engine with forced induction and I do this without going to a dyno to make it reliable?
I can get "93" octane for $2.55 right now. High as ****!
Thanks again,
98civic94gsr
Well I can afford the zeitronix and jrsc at the same time.
If you could give me a small quick write up of how to tune it with a wideband I'd paypal you $5 bux or something
Its gonna sound like brown-nosing but I just want to say I appreciate you taking time to answer my questions. I couldn't do this without the help of you guys...and a deep pocket book
Thanks
98civic94gsr
If you could give me a small quick write up of how to tune it with a wideband I'd paypal you $5 bux or something
Its gonna sound like brown-nosing but I just want to say I appreciate you taking time to answer my questions. I couldn't do this without the help of you guys...and a deep pocket book
Thanks
98civic94gsr
The factory regulator is a 1:1 regulator. It increases fuel pressure 1 psi for every 1 psi of boost. This is not to add additional fuel, it is to maintain a constant *pressure differential* between the fuel rail and the intake manifold runners. This means that fuel delivery will rely on injector pulsewidth alone. If there was no boost-reference FPR, and you added 7psi of boost, then there would be 7psi of extra pressure in the manifold resisting the injection of the fuel, resulting in lower fuel delivery with constant pulsewidth. (In fact, the factory FPR does not know about boost at all. It is "basically" a diaphram with pressure on both sides. It tries to regulate a 40psi or so pressure differential regardless of engine load. At idle, you have about -600 mmHG of vacuum trying to suck fuel out of the injectors. The FPR tries to be the equalizer that guarantees that fuel delivery is not influenced by pressure in the manifold).
You tune by modifying the fuel maps in the car's ECU/EMS... not by messing with the regulator.
When you use the fuel management supplied by JR, tip in detonation is a problem. This is because the charger creates instataneous boost, because the rotors are spinning all the time and are "bypassed" when you aren't on the throttle hard. The JR system also reads MAP pressure *before* the charger, so wacky things happen with the MAP hitting 0 vac fast enough.
Crome/Hondata will fix the fuel management problems. Crome is free, by the way. You just need to be OBD1 and have a chippable ECU.
If you read enough H-T and have a wideband, you can definately get your car running nicely.
it's $2.50 here for 87 octane right now. $2.75 for 91 octane.
You tune by modifying the fuel maps in the car's ECU/EMS... not by messing with the regulator.
When you use the fuel management supplied by JR, tip in detonation is a problem. This is because the charger creates instataneous boost, because the rotors are spinning all the time and are "bypassed" when you aren't on the throttle hard. The JR system also reads MAP pressure *before* the charger, so wacky things happen with the MAP hitting 0 vac fast enough.
Crome/Hondata will fix the fuel management problems. Crome is free, by the way. You just need to be OBD1 and have a chippable ECU.
If you read enough H-T and have a wideband, you can definately get your car running nicely.
it's $2.50 here for 87 octane right now. $2.75 for 91 octane.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98civic94gsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I can afford the zeitronix and jrsc at the same time.
If you could give me a small quick write up of how to tune it with a wideband I'd paypal you $5 bux or something
</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is a lot of good info on tuning on here... and some people have done writups. For example:
http://home.mn.rr.com/keebler65/honda/tuning.html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its gonna sound like brown-nosing but I just want to say I appreciate you taking time to answer my questions. I couldn't do this without the help of you guys...and a deep pocket book
Thanks
98civic94gsr</TD></TR></TABLE>
No problem ...
If you could give me a small quick write up of how to tune it with a wideband I'd paypal you $5 bux or something
</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is a lot of good info on tuning on here... and some people have done writups. For example:
http://home.mn.rr.com/keebler65/honda/tuning.html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its gonna sound like brown-nosing but I just want to say I appreciate you taking time to answer my questions. I couldn't do this without the help of you guys...and a deep pocket book
Thanks
98civic94gsr</TD></TR></TABLE>
No problem ...
For all DIY tuning: http://www.pgmfi.org
Basically, right now the best free program out there is Crome. When you're tuning there are two steps that you constantly repeat. Hookup your wideband, and make a pass and log it (datalogging). You analyze the graph (it will be in a table with Vacuum at the top and RPMs along the left side).
The table that I'm talking about looks like this.

This also shows what your AFR's should be in certain columns. You might want to tune the 12:1 down to 11.5:1, though due to temperature correction not working very well with Crome. (AFRs can fluctuate up to one point.. possibly more.. from change in temperatures).
So like I said. You datalog, then you add or decrease fuel to try to match the AFRs in the image that I showed you. Really not that difficult.
But I would definitely read through pgmfi.org to get a better feel for timing changes and some little things that come up.
Basically, right now the best free program out there is Crome. When you're tuning there are two steps that you constantly repeat. Hookup your wideband, and make a pass and log it (datalogging). You analyze the graph (it will be in a table with Vacuum at the top and RPMs along the left side).
The table that I'm talking about looks like this.

This also shows what your AFR's should be in certain columns. You might want to tune the 12:1 down to 11.5:1, though due to temperature correction not working very well with Crome. (AFRs can fluctuate up to one point.. possibly more.. from change in temperatures).
So like I said. You datalog, then you add or decrease fuel to try to match the AFRs in the image that I showed you. Really not that difficult.
But I would definitely read through pgmfi.org to get a better feel for timing changes and some little things that come up.
The only other thing with the JRSC and tuning is that the thing is better at heating up air than compressing it... hehe. So you end up with really high IATs... so running a decent amount of ignition retard is necessary.
USDM GSR is 10.0:1 and JDM is 10.5:1 roughly. If you want to calculate your CR check out this linkhttp://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.phpWith a Cometic triple layer gasket I calculated about a 9.7:1 CR on my B18c. I agree, I was a bit surprized by the comprssion drop from just a head gasket also.
Well I went out and got a loan today. So now I have all the money I need to do this. I think I will get the Supercharger kit and tune it my self using a wideband and crome. Dustin if you want to give me a call at 231-884-1273 or e-mail me at raptoraja@yahoo.com I would like you to set me up witha chippable ecu, The chips I will need the burning programmer and software(crome). That is if you do all of that. Get a hold me and that goes for anybody else that can set me up with what I need.
Thanks again guys,
98civic94gsr
Thanks again guys,
98civic94gsr
you will be fine with a JRSC on a JDM GSR motor. i have one right now, only pushing 6psi though until i get my other pulley.
i have my timing set at 13BTC. setting it at 10BTC sucks. i don't hear any pinging having the timing at 13BTC either. i started out at 10BTC and then started moving it up. i think i could still go up to 14BTC, just haven't had the time to mess with it.
if your not looking for a **** load of power, you will be fine with the JRSC. its fun for a daily driver.
i have my timing set at 13BTC. setting it at 10BTC sucks. i don't hear any pinging having the timing at 13BTC either. i started out at 10BTC and then started moving it up. i think i could still go up to 14BTC, just haven't had the time to mess with it.
if your not looking for a **** load of power, you will be fine with the JRSC. its fun for a daily driver.
i just got the jrsc not to long ago.
i'm currently using the fmu and running 6psi. look to run more boost and get tuned with crome.
yeah.. i have i/h/e and some head work.
i will run more boost if i can't sell the JRSC.
i'm currently using the fmu and running 6psi. look to run more boost and get tuned with crome.
yeah.. i have i/h/e and some head work.
i will run more boost if i can't sell the JRSC.
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