Ok guys, my a/c worked as of about last summer, I didn't really use it often but it worked on the occassions that I did, my car was completely stock then, minus speakers and a headunit. I installed a custom turbo kit in November/December. I didn't need the a/c in winter time of course so I can't say if it worked then or not. I noticed when it started getting hot again that my A/C wasn't blowing cold air, got more into it and the condensor fan nor the compressor clutch will engage. I have tried to add freon but without the compressor kicking in, it won't pull any from the can. I have gone through the a/c system flowchart in my maintenance manual but there are a few steps I didn't check because I didn't know how or didn't have the tool.

A list of what I have checked:

A/C pressure switch connector - OK
A/C pressure switch - Don't know how to check for continuity?
A/C thermostat connector - Ok, did use jumper wire to connect middle with ground, still didn't come on.
A/C thermostat - Replaced it because Firestone diagnosed it as bad, didn't fix it.
A/C Switch - Ok(I also put in another heater control panel I have left over just to test, no luck)
Heater control panel 14P connector wires 11&12 - Ok
Heater fan switch 6P Connector - Don't know how to check for continuity?

It also says to check body grounds G401 & G402, I found where G401 is and it looks fine, but I can't find where G402 is?!

Firestone also told me that my ECU needed to be replaced, I refuse to believe this, I did chip the ECU with uberdata but I have checked the forums for uberdata and nobody seems to have an issue like this, I don't see how everything else can function perfectly if my ECU had a problem, I checked my settings in Uberdata and the FTL script is not in use so nothing to do with A/C in uberdata is enabled, I do have the PA Sensor setting checked because it was checked by default, and I have no idea what the PA Sensor is.

Please if you have any suggestions for me on other things to check or if you can tell me where G402 is, or if you can tell me what I need to check for continuity and how to do it, that would be superb, I have a little multimeter that I have been using and I assume I need something different to check for continuity?

 

sounds like your expantion valve is plugged ... change it and the reciever dryerand use A/c solvent and blow the system clean that should take care of your problem ... also please dont do this unless you have the equipment to evacuate the system properly ... this is not a job you do at home this is a job for the pros ...

 

This man is right... Take you car to your local honda or Acura dealer, and have them service your a/c. Tell them that you want all old freon removed and replaced with some fresh. This should solve your problem.

 

not neccesarily the dealer, but a shop that has an evac/recharge unit and the gauges to check the pressures which will help confirm or disprove the expansion block being blocked.
you'll have to pay probably 60-130 to have it done, but at least you'll be getting done right and not just blowing more crap into the atmosphere and then trying to figure out how to recharge the system

 

Ok i'll do that, the continuity was fine for the heater fan switch and for the a/c pressure switch, so it seems like everything with the system checks out to be fine.

So is the expansion valve something I need to replace? can I do it before I go get the system flushed? Were you saying I need to change out the receiver/drier?

 

sykotic,

Not sure why we're jumping to conclusions about the expansion valve. Nothing you've said here is pointing in that direction. (not that anything you've said has ruled it out, but there's really no evidence to point to anything in particular.) Without at least putting a gauge set on the system there's no way to know if there's even any refrigerant in there.

I don't suggest you try to fix the A/C on your own because you don't have the experience or the expensive equipment.

it may be more cost effective to go to your local community college and take a course in automotive air conditioning than it would be to pay to get it fixed all the time.

PA sensor = Atmostpheric Pressure. In general, unless you're having idling or driveability issues, your current PA sensor setting (enabled or disabled) is right. If you're having issues with idling or driveability, try switching the setting for the PA sensor, see if it has an effect.

edit: btw, you cannot change any of the components of the A/C system without having it recovered beforehand, and evacuated and recharged afterwards. You can't just change one thing at a time hoping that one of the things will work. Unfortunately, there really is no easy way to do it.