got my car street tuned and it was running great for about 30-40 miles. strong as hell. i did a bunch of wot passes and it felt awesome, then i tried it again and the top end just fell off. it now pulls really strong in the mid range but loses all the power a little after vtec. so i pull the plugs and they are blacker than black. obviously too rich. i also get about 17-18 mpg, which blows. i can even smell gas when i get out of the car. so my question is will fouled plugs cause me to lose power on top? also what is a good a/f ratio for a street tune. i believe my tuner said it was at 11:1 to be safe. i heard 11 is fine but how come i smell gas and my plugs are black as hell.

 

Yes fouled plugs will suck at everything. Replace them.
Aim for mid 11s during boost and ~14.7 during cruise.

 

Muckman is correct. Mid 11's is a good safe number for a street tune. Get a wideband though or else your not going to know ****.

 

I usually shoot for 11.5 and 14.7 partial throttle and I also do a few pulls at night and a few in daytime and try to get it run about right at both times.

 

 

chart is good, but shoot for 11.5 in boost on 3-5+ psi

 

I agree with everyone I also shoot for 11.5. I'd like to explan why though. We'd actually want to run it at 12:1, but if you ever get a very cool night you will notice that your AF's will lean out about .3-.5 higher. This is because of the denser charge meaning more oxygen meaning leaner burn. I doubt 11's will foul your plugs and the MPG shouldn't have any effect when in boost since you hopefully aren't bosting to every stoplight. Tune your partial throttle this is were your problem is not boost.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree with everyone I also shoot for 11.5. I'd like to explan why though. We'd actually want to run it at 12:1, but if you ever get a very cool night you will notice that your AF's will lean out about .3-.5 higher. This is because of the denser charge meaning more oxygen meaning leaner burn. I doubt 11's will foul your plugs and the MPG shouldn't have any effect when in boost since you hopefully aren't bosting to every stoplight. Tune your partial throttle this is were your problem is not boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>

definately true. i just did a quick street tune on a friends turbo gsr. his a/f on an 85* day is 11.8 down low to 11.0 up top, which will be mid to low 11's on a 50* night. equally so, my car last night at about 65* outside is 11.8-11.4, which was right around 11.1 during the hot afternoon.

it sounds like you are way too rich in vacuum, thats why your plugs are fouled and you are getting low mpg. vacuum maps should primarily be 14.5-13.5, with idle around 15:1 and vacuum-boost transition at around 12.5:1. personally i run mid 13's a/f in vacuum from like 16" to right around 4", where it dips into high 12's. i know its a little rich, but im not seeing poor mpg and my plugs are fine, and again it allows a little leeway for air temperature fluctuations.

 

Sounds like this guy's tuned his car to run 11:1 AFR 100% of the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree with everyone I also shoot for 11.5. I'd like to explan why though. We'd actually want to run it at 12:1, but if you ever get a very cool night you will notice that your AF's will lean out about .3-.5 higher. This is because of the denser charge meaning more oxygen meaning leaner burn. I doubt 11's will foul your plugs and the MPG shouldn't have any effect when in boost since you hopefully aren't bosting to every stoplight. Tune your partial throttle this is were your problem is not boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>

While this may be happening, it's not something you should have to deal with. This is what air temperature correction is for. A proper tuned setup should run the same a/f ratios all the time, regardless of air temperature. That's why the air temp sensor exists...

 

correction factors for a stock honda work great, but when you have a boosted honda running 800cc injectors, things don't always work as planned, therefore, tune safe

 

That's why you get a better computer that has adjustable correction factors

 

Yeah I wish IAT correction was available in Uberdata/Crome...oh well maybe Neptune might leak out how they got it to work......Hondata doesn't even have it .

On a side note I think Uberdata might have a boost or TPS based closed loop to open loop switch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's why you get a better computer that has adjustable correction factors </TD></TR></TABLE>

I wish. Why don't u send me a nice copy of that neptune program you got over there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by used2baracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I wish. Why don't u send me a nice copy of that neptune program you got over there </TD></TR></TABLE>

NO, ONLY THE L33T3ST OF TEH L33T GET THAT ****!!! Seriously, they should sell personal versions

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">......Hondata doesn't even have it .

: </TD></TR></TABLE>

The new hondata s300 has it,along with water temp correction.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

NO, ONLY THE L33T3ST OF TEH L33T GET THAT ****!!! Seriously, they should sell personal versions </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'd buy it

 

I probably wouldn't, I'm too cheap, would probably stick with my $150 crome

 

Tune to 14.7 for Vac. and 11.5-12.1 under boost. Your fouled plugs are definately your problem