misfire cylinder #2 after JRSC uninstall
well, this is the third time i uninstalled my JRSC, but, now this time, ive put all the stock parts on and experienced a problem. i am getting some serious bogging acompanied by a cylinder misfire #2 code. heres the facts: 99 civic si b16a2.
new copper plugs gapped at .050. oem wires are 6 months old. cap, coil, rotor are about 8 months old. valve adjustment 8 months ago.
there are no vacuum leaks. i however, i am not sure if correctly rerouted the vac lines the way they are supposed to be. im pretty sure i did, but, i will find a diagram for it somewhere to compare and make sure. i also had to T into the brake booster line provide vac for the cruise control. map sensor vac line goes into the back of the mani.
MAP sensor has been "T"ed into a 3 bar map sensor junction plug. obd2 injectors have been "T"ed into OBD1 injector clips. I had to ghetto rig my IAT sensor connection because, i lost the original junction plug when i had the hondata on. does polarity matter with the IAT sensor wiring?
i plan on picking up a compression guage and timing gun from my buddies house tommorrow. i will also check plug colors tommorrow and swap em around to see any changes. i would have done all this tonight, but, im kinda exhausted from my non stop effort of changing out the clutch and putting my jrsc b16 back to stock. ill tackle this again tommorrow. i would appreciate any info or help until then.
what causes a misfire?
new copper plugs gapped at .050. oem wires are 6 months old. cap, coil, rotor are about 8 months old. valve adjustment 8 months ago.
there are no vacuum leaks. i however, i am not sure if correctly rerouted the vac lines the way they are supposed to be. im pretty sure i did, but, i will find a diagram for it somewhere to compare and make sure. i also had to T into the brake booster line provide vac for the cruise control. map sensor vac line goes into the back of the mani.
MAP sensor has been "T"ed into a 3 bar map sensor junction plug. obd2 injectors have been "T"ed into OBD1 injector clips. I had to ghetto rig my IAT sensor connection because, i lost the original junction plug when i had the hondata on. does polarity matter with the IAT sensor wiring?
i plan on picking up a compression guage and timing gun from my buddies house tommorrow. i will also check plug colors tommorrow and swap em around to see any changes. i would have done all this tonight, but, im kinda exhausted from my non stop effort of changing out the clutch and putting my jrsc b16 back to stock. ill tackle this again tommorrow. i would appreciate any info or help until then.
what causes a misfire?
Is it a dead miss? Is it getting spark to that cylinder? If a compression or leakdown test show no problem, i'd try switching 2 injectors to see if the problem changes cylinders.
#2 spark plug visually looks like it hasnt even fired (looks brand spanking new). the plug is recieving spark. gonna check the injectors next.
Modified by spidermancivic at 11:07 AM 6/29/2005
Modified by spidermancivic at 11:07 AM 6/29/2005
I had the exact same problem two weeks ago after I put my engine back in the car. It was a loose injector wire. Did you solder your injector wires? I went back and soldered mine and it all works well now. One side of the injector plug should have 12V DC on it when the ignition is on, so you can check the plugs with a meter to see if any of the injector wires are faulty.
i first rewired the injectors, now i know for sure there is a solid connection. still was doing the same thing.
now i swapped the (a) #2 injector into #4 cylinder(b) and #4 injector into the #2 cylinder. basically i swapped 2 and 4 around. now that#2 injector that is in #4 cylinder is flooded with fuel.
im assuming i need to find a good set of working obd2 injectors. now, how the hell do i get the fuel out?
now i swapped the (a) #2 injector into #4 cylinder(b) and #4 injector into the #2 cylinder. basically i swapped 2 and 4 around. now that#2 injector that is in #4 cylinder is flooded with fuel.
im assuming i need to find a good set of working obd2 injectors. now, how the hell do i get the fuel out?
swapped out all injectors with known good ones. #4 cylinder is flooding. all injector wires resoldered single. tps and map tested out good. i am really lost and pissed.
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the car engine wouldnt fire up and cylinder #4 kept flooding with fuel, along with misfires in cylinder 2 and 1, so, i did the compression test on a cold engine. engine is a b16a2 after jrsc removal.
cylinder 1 - 99psi
cylinder 2 - 77psi
cylinder 3 - 15psi
cylinder 4 - 101psi
the results with oil poured in the cylinders
cylinder 1 - 180psi
cylinder 2 - 120 psi
cylinder 3 - 74psi
cylinder 4 - 156psi
i cant wait to rip the head of the block. i am suspecting really bad ringlands and maybe a few bent valves.................but, i wont know for sure until i rip it out.
can anyone explain the extremly low compression on cylinder #3? at least now i have a new block on the side to build up. now i just need a new block to get me going from point a to point b in the mean time
cylinder 1 - 99psi
cylinder 2 - 77psi
cylinder 3 - 15psi
cylinder 4 - 101psi
the results with oil poured in the cylinders
cylinder 1 - 180psi
cylinder 2 - 120 psi
cylinder 3 - 74psi
cylinder 4 - 156psi
i cant wait to rip the head of the block. i am suspecting really bad ringlands and maybe a few bent valves.................but, i wont know for sure until i rip it out.
can anyone explain the extremly low compression on cylinder #3? at least now i have a new block on the side to build up. now i just need a new block to get me going from point a to point b in the mean time
funniest **** ever. i finally bought a new usdm b16a2 swap. while doing the swap to replace the old b16a2, i noticed that the fuel line to the fpr and a vac line were switched around. a vac line in the rear of the intake mani wasnt hooked up. so before swapping in the new block, i switched the wrong lines around and plugged the open vac line up. guess what........................the engine fired up god damn vac lines.
new compression test with the lines properly switched around and the engine at normal operating temps show 175psi across the board all codes are gone. except for that damn catalyst effeciency code cause of my gutted cat.
well, now i have a new complete 99-00 si swap with 70,000 miles sitting in my garage
new compression test with the lines properly switched around and the engine at normal operating temps show 175psi across the board all codes are gone. except for that damn catalyst effeciency code cause of my gutted cat.
well, now i have a new complete 99-00 si swap with 70,000 miles sitting in my garage
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spidermancivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i noticed that the fuel line to the fpr and a vac line were switched around. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You didn't have the fuel return line running to the intake manifold did you? That might make it run a bit rich.
You didn't have the fuel return line running to the intake manifold did you? That might make it run a bit rich.
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