Did swap in to 1994 Aerodeck. I'm from Europe. This car seems like built in USA or for US market. That's what is wrote on car.

Engine JDM H22A 1994 year.

Use F20B engine wiring. Rewire IAT and idle valves sensors, cables was too short. Oil pressure sensor connector change.

Problem!
Engine at idle shaking and don't run smooth. Seems like no synchronization between spark and fuel injectors, fuel delivery. When accelerate it perfectly revs. After throttle close engine torn of. Engine works terible.

For the beginning I change distributor, doesn't help. Check distributor wiring to ECU. There are every think as it must be.
Change MAP. That dose not help too. Che ck MAP and TP sensor wiring, that's OK too.

Change spark plugs, that dose not help too. Very good spark in same time.

Only think was left are injectors. The Accord have already resisted injectors on previous F20 engine so I don't need to do changes. Can use the same resistor box and wiring for H22. Any way I change the resistor box, but doesn't help anyway.

The Knock sensor and VTEC stuff connected properly, that's works.

So what could it be? NO CHECK EGINE CODES!






Modified by Root79 at 9:42 AM 6/30/2005

 

Try Checking your timing, and i dont think we get an aerodeck. Never heard of it. Would it be equivalent to our accord??

 

this accord, yah, what body style the car is yah

 

the timing is ovbiously off......which can still be a number of things

on a related note, did you use new motor mounts?

 

I thought the areodeck is the usdm wagon?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAiL05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try Checking your timing, and i dont think we get an aerodeck. Never heard of it. Would it be equivalent to our accord??</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Check timing and vacuum lines.

 

Already did several H22A swap in to Del Sol and 3gen ludes. They are much difficult swaps. Actually we are doing swaps all the time. I was thinking that this will be easy swap, because we did all job very fast. It took one day to do everything. Use Accord trany and tarny mounts. CAN'T use Prelude big back side L type mount, don't work.
Use H22 mount from timing belt side. It's a little bit to wide. Cut it from both sides for about 4 mm and it will fit in to Accord mount holder. This is bolt on swap from mechanical side.

On car are VIN number plates. There are wrote: "HONDA AMERICA MANUFACTURING". Yeah it's wagon style body. It will be fast family car.

So, you think its timing belt problem. I will check that. And check the Injector connections too. Because there are nothing can be more. Seems like check everything.

Thank's Guys! If somebody have more ideas just post it.

 

Go thrue the manuals today. Prelude and Accord. Accord with F20B3 engine was.

Actualy couldn't find any big differeces in wiring diagrams. So, that could be some mechanical problem.

 

There are somebody who did h22 swap in 94 Accord?

Because we stick in that misfire problem. The 1 cylinder over fueling all the time.

There are everything changed on engine, that's not mechanical problem. If somebody know about Accord wiring please give some ideas.

As I wrote, we use F20B3 engine wiring. When looking for problem, we did independent wires to ECU:
Knock
VTEC sol.
VTEC pres.
1;2;3;4 injectors.

Ather sensors and wires connected using original Accord wiring.

 

Are you running a resistor box or not?

 

With resistor box, we change for 3 boxes, the same anyway. As I told, we change everything. It's in wiring. What, I don't know we try everything.

 

I am reading through but just double checking anyway. What type of distributor are you using? Internal or external coil? When I did my swap I had the same exact problems and ended up switching to an MSD ignition unit and it was solved. Don't know exactly what part was the problem but that did take care of it.


Modified by H2290 at 4:28 PM 6/29/2005

 

FINALLY!!!!!!

That was ******* one of EGR solenoids, it was broken, don't know why.
On intake manifold there are mine EGR valve lift sensor. So, Accords solenoid valve somehow all the time hold at open position EGR lift valve. All exhaust gases kill the air fuel mixture, that's why the Bosch diagnostic show that it's over fueling. In reality it was totally different. Engine choke at idle, at high revs when fast exhaust gases it become much better. I was cost me 80$ at diagnostic center to find this problem.
And one of mistakes was that mine lift valve can't be connected directly with intake manifold, by vacuum line. That we did in the beginning. Clever boy!

Actually, when swaping the H22 in any of cars, best way, is to put some metal plate under EGR lift vale and there will be no problems at all with that. No ******* solenoids, less vacuum lines.... much cleaner engine room. Off course if don't have chipped ECU, must be connection with ECU and EGR lift valve.

So, no problem with wiring, vacum lines, igniton. In the begining I was thinking that it will be fast job, now I know what to do next time.




Modified by Root79 at 10:32 PM 6/29/2005


Modified by Root79 at 9:43 AM 6/30/2005

 

Well there you go. Thanks for posting the solution as it will help anybody who does a search, a lot of people don't post answers after the fact.

So, now how is she running?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H2290 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well there you go. Thanks for posting the solution as it will help anybody who does a search, a lot of people don't post answers after the fact.

So, now how is she running?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fantastic, you know the power was that think which missed for that car. It's all most 1300 kg wight. Very heavy car. There are still stock intake and catalytic in exhaust. It's old and we going to remove it, think that car will run much better. As it's Jdm H22A and ECU too, we have Mugen Chip and program it. In reality on dyno that will give some +15hp.

 

Everything seems like OK.

Some small problems anyway. Idle revs not stable some times. Not all the time but when engine warm up. And when it warm up it's not all the time too. But it is.

We didn't block the EGR, put back all solenoids and connect it properly. Everything is working, but sometimes Check engine throw up 12 code - EGR. Why I can't understand? Change lift vales, doesn't help.

 

Heya! Every one.

He, I was thinking that everything will be so easy. NO WAY!!!!

Well, after all EGR problems and vacuum hose connections still don't work EGR properly. Did all vacuum right an immediately EGR lift valve open at idle. And again same problem. So, 2 codes all the time thrown up. 12 and 41. EGR and Heated element in O2 sensor.

We did same way, start to change all solenoids for EGR and could find the reason why EGR don't work and why are 41 code.

So, what was the problem. Problem in connections and sensor control. All sensors on engine controlling by ECU using negative pole.
And we just didn't look care fuly in wiring diagrams of Accords F20B3 and Prelude H22A. The negative pole ( - ) on Accords are:
For O2 is A11 ECU pin
For EGR control valve A6 ECI pin

In Prelude it's:
For O2 is A6 ECU pin
For EGR control valve A11 ECU pin

As you can see they are reverse connected. Today I check the civic from 88-95 wiring and prelude 88-95 they all have the same system of connection. How could I know that Accords OBD-1 have such different connection for so important O2 and EGR. All other connections to ECU are 100% the same as on any OBD-1 systems.

Some people told me that Accords 94 swap of H22A are simple, just necessary longer some sensor wiring. That's not true. There must be done care full wiring job.

Hope that it will help for future swaps. Because this swap could be very big head pain after.

This swap is done. And finaly we can start to think about tuning.



Modified by Root79 at 11:43 PM 7/21/2005