Finally got my car back together with the turbo kit on, i tried starting it but it runs like complete **** and then dies. brand new spark plugs, swapped on a working distributor, and a known good set of plug wires, still does it. anything else i should rule out before the injectors(RC 1000's btw)? they were just sent out to RC and cleaned/calibrated before i bought them(i have the paperwork as well) but heres the kicker, this was back in 09. they sat in my room in the packaging they came back from RC in then sat in the garage in my engine for a few months. is it possible i need to have them cleaned again? im also going to try a different basemap and see if that solves anything. any ideas/input is appreciated.
thanks

 

Are you tuned for 1ks? Not basemappped. Tuned.

 

You sure their not Low Impedance?

 

Check your map sensor wiring and the wiring for the injectors.
Stock map or 3 bar?

 

Have you confirmed you have fuel at the rail? Adequate rail pressure?

Have you confirmed you have spark?

Have you confirmed your timing is correct?

ECU is working and mapping is correct for your setup?

All wiring, connectors, sensors and engine harness grounds are accounted for, working correctly and connected securely?

We need more information from you. You can't just tell us, oh, I replaced this, this this and this. Still runs like ****. What is my problem????

First rule of no-start diagnosis. Check and confirm the simplest aspects needed for start-up before replacing ANY parts.

From personal experience, engine/harness grounds are more important than you think.

Also, reversing the TPS and MAP sensor connectors is also a common mistake I have seen before since they share the same style of plug (on most B-series engines).

Both the above issues can cause symptoms similar to what you have described, but that is if everything else is accounted for.

 

no, the car isnt "tuned" i just got it put back together. no it will not be driven until it is tuned i was just going to try and get any bugs worked out(CEL's, etc) car has no CEL's currently. rail is getting fuel, pressure is fine. timing is correct. all grounds are connected securely. resistor box is wired up correctly. wiring for the injectors is fine, i put obd1 plugs on and soldered/shrink wrapped the connections. it has spark. has an omni power 4 bar map. i will try to find a wiring diagram to verify the map and tps arent switched, but so far all i could find an eg diagram and the wire colors arent the same on my ek harness.
map is a basemap for 1,000cc injectors but i will look it over better before i proceed and see what the fuel tables look like.

 

What sort of ecu? Stock, chipped with a base map?

 

p28 with s300

 

have you changed the settings in the s300 to accept all the changes youve made.??
map sensor, injectors size???

 

i believe it is, however im going to double check that as well to rule that out. i emailed RC and they were nice enough to tell me they would check them for free if i sent them back with the paperwork, but im going to check everything i can and see if i can hopefully figure it out. thanks for the input/suggestions guys

 

Just ohm out the injectors if you think thats the problem, i doubt it but check with a multimeter. They should be at 3 ohms.
Also check the resistance on your resistor box that should be at 10 ohms.

You probably have the stock map selected or the wrong map sensor selected in the s300, or the wiring is wrong.

 

ok, made sure i had the omni MAP selected, and 1000cc injectors, etc. pulled the plugs and cylinders 1 and 4 are BLACK. the middle two are not. have spark at all 4 cylinders. pulled rail to see if the injectors were all spraying, at first only one sprayed but the battery was super weak(i think its shot) let it charge for a bit and 3 out of the 4 sprayed everytime. swapped plugs on the injectors just to make sure it wasnt my wiring and it wont spray on a different plug either. still not sure why cylinder 2 plug isnt black like 1 and 4 though since it is spraying.

 

Do a compression test.
Check batt voltage
And check again when under a load (cranking).

 

compression test was next on my list. what should battery voltage be? i think its 12 normally and 14 under load correct?

 

In between 12 and 15
Is it only one injector?

 

12 to 13v no load, engine off.
13-14 at idle.
Voltage shouldn't drop below 10v when cranking.

 

Yes only one.

 

Move that injector to another clip, if it doesn't work it's bad

 

 

Check the resistance on the solenoid of the injector, or just send it out and get it checked.

 

well, i tried to blow through it and it opened up and stuck open. gas leaked out of it. tapped it and now its stuck closed again. i wonder if its not gunked up from the old gas in the car or something. gas was 3 years old. its got fresh premium in it now though

 

Might needs to be cleaned, or its bad... probably the last

 

guess il have to send it to rc since they offered to check them for free anyway. didnt really want to wait on the post office. i have another set of 3 1000s guess i can just steal one of those for now

 

shoulda did that first

 

i just emailed them yesterday, or are you talking about swapping out an injector?