Okay well I think I have posted 2-3 topics on this mini-me swap and I keep getting problems.

I am getting a code 20.
Just got done checking all the grounds nice and clean.

I cut all the wiring for the A/c but left the relay in.

I was also missing the wiring from the battery to the underdash fuse box so I hooked it up with some 16-18 gauge wiring...

... only thing I hooked it up where the alternator was suppose to be and I hooked up the alternator where the battery was suppose to be. I am going to change out the alternator right now and see if that fixes.

Also people said it could be the dizzy? I will take that apart also and take a look at it.

Any other pointers?

ALSO my starter will not engage when I turn the key to key lll (crank position). But if I put a jumper wire in there it will engage.

I made all the checks up to my next question..

Whats a ECU TEST HARNESS?
What does it look like?
Can I just make one?

Main Relay is clicking (so thats good)

Grounds are good, snipped wires are seperated and covered, main relay is clicking.

Help any input please.

-shane

 

I should also mention it is a 90 CRX Si with a d15b2 block with d16z6 cylinder head and intake manifold.

I am running it on a pm6 (uh the CRX Si ecu). I will be either installing a vtec controller or just a rpm activator.

-Shane

 

Is there a way to get around using the test harness?

Shane

 

ummm...why were you hacking all these wires in the first place?

 

The only wires I touched. Are the following...

1. A/C wiring that runs along the front crossmember, kept the relay
*(because previous owner took out A/C stuff and some of the wiring had rubbed up on the exhaust manifold)
2. IAT sensor connector
*(was to short so I lengthened it)
3. Shoot its the one on the back of the intake manifold nearest the brake booster
*(was also to short)
4. Added battery wire to underdash fuse box
*(because I have no idea where the stock one was and I looked all over)

Thanks Paul for the reply... NOW HELP ME

-shane

 

try that battery wire first....

what's code 20? I don't know codes off the top of my head

 

Hmm so if i read this right car is not cranking right?? or it is cranking but not getting spark...

Well most of the time check the basic's geting a car started is not to hard all you really need is the basic's Spark, Compression,fuel, and timming if one of those is not working then you would mostly have to look at the one diagram...
But in your case which if you are not getting it to cracnk then on like a mini me setup like that i found that most of the wiring to disturbitor is not hooked properly

So what you would want to do is that run wire to wire.... note on older cars the white and yellow wire look simualr since being the age of the wiring but send me some more info on whats going on and i can basically fill in the blanks for you...

You might want to check the timing though since being that the Rex that we got from you the timing was off you want to line up the timing mark on the crank to the single white mark not the one thats in the middle of the two red and yellow i think.. but the one that is by itself which is color white okay....

Chao

 

oops.

Code 20 is ELD (electric load detected) or something like that.

What do you mean by check the battery wire? Which one? The one going to the fuse or the starter?

-Shane

 

Well ELD code means either there is a falt in the alt... or a short in the wires going to the alt itself but most times for older cars its alt. going bad.....

 

haha good to hear from you man. Hope the Rex is still running. hey I never touched that motor just got it in the car and running nothing more, nothing less.

It is not converted to obd1 it is just obd0 right now so I doubt it is the dizzy wires.
(its pretty much a d16a6 with vtec that is not hooked up yet )

The car will not crank. However if I put a jumper wire from the battery to the starter then it will crank over. Then I checked the ignition switch and it says there is continuity between all of the necessary connections.

My next step was to check the 3p in the underdash fuse box for voltage. Which I did and my next step is the ecu Test harness which I don't have the money for so I am seeing if there is a way around it.

-Shane

 

Changed out the alternator and same problem.

Something had to have gone wrong cause when I open my doors the engine light and **** go on. When I close it they go off. When I step on the brake its like all my engine lights **** goes on again.

Dang this is the same wiring harness just a different motor I don't get it!!!

 

When I did my dohc swap I got this code, my door light woudl stay halfway on all the time too. Never fixed it, now after putting in the sohc in my dx I got the code again, annoying as hell. Though both times it hasnt caused my car to not start, I'd look elsewhere for the starting problem than the code 20.

 

ELD is located on your fusebox under the hood...

 

Really? Where at?

 

Talking bout ELD, today I went out to start my crx and it didn't start.. had that stupid code 20 too.. But got it fixed.. Anyways, I think it's the 4wire plug in the fusebox.. they are probably loose and don't have a good connection, so try to push them back into place.. If this don't work, you might need a new fusebox..

 

Yeah I am going to put a different fuse box in it right now!!! (crosses fingers) hopefully it fixes this ****!!!

-Shane

 

yeah that didn't work . Back to diagnosing

Any other thoughts at what it could be?

Things that have been done..

1. Clean grounds
2. Changed Alternators
3. Changed fuse box

How would I see if the alternator wiring was at fault?

-Shane

 

bump