i'm swappin a b18c into my 94' civic ex and my d16z6 from my 94' into my 91' civic si. i'm using the si engine harness cause that's what i read to use and i have a jumper harness with instructions, but the harness seems like it's gonna need a lot more work then just runnin the extra wires for VTEC and the o2 sensor. So if anyone can shed some light onto this for me and just tell me yes you do have to do all this wiring or no you don't??? either would be nice, just a solid answer is all i'm lookin for....

 

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I NEED TO KNOW WTF IS UP WITH THE MAP SENSOR, this is another thing that i'm confused about.... there's no plug for the map sensor from the si harness so do i have to make one and run it or what???????????????????? no one knows wiring in the EF forum or something?

 

ok map sensor is done with... but what about the extra sensor right next to the oil filter? i don't know what that one is or there's another one that plugs right underneath the IM on the a6 but there's no where to plug it in on the z6? are these just extra sensors or do i need to run them somewhere??? and also because i'm using the complete z6 do i need to use the resistor box for the fuel injectors? i've heard you need to use it only if your using the a6 fuel rail but you don't need to if your using the z6 rail?

 

ok i think i'm alright with the wiring except for the 2 extra plugs and the only that's not hooked up on the z6 is the one that goes right by the lower radiator hose, so i'm thinkin that the fat rubber plug that goes by the thermostat plug by the oil filter? and then the other one that goes to the IM i'm thinkin i don't even need maybe???

 

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http://www.hondaautomotivepart...82%29
this is the coolant line layout if that's what your referring to.

 

you said plugs. i'm sorry. i had to extend the fan switch from behind the motor to the thermo housing. some z6's have a bolt there you can remove and just put your old sensor in. if not you have to extend the wires to the thermo housing.

 

and i did have a plug left over from the dpfi harness.

 

All you should need extra is the fan switch relocation, injector clips pinned on, blockoff plug pinned on, and the map/ purge control extended.
Ryan

 

ok thanks, i think i got everything....

one more ? tho, do i need to use the a6 driver side mount and bolt that onto my z6 head/block? cause when tryin to drop it in it doesn't seem like the stock z6 mount will work.

 

yea, use the A6 mount from the drivers side

 

not so much the mount as the bracket that holds the mount to the motor.

 

yeah cause we were droppin it in last night and we noticed the stock z6 mount was probly about an inch off on the drivers side with all the other mounts in place, so i looked at the a6 and it has a little more angle to it or whatever, but thanks for the help and it should be runnin tonight as long as it goes smooth....

this is going to be my daily driver/college car and my 94' EX with the b18c is gonna be my street/race car kinda... but i'll post pics of the work/end result when i'm done

 

well the motor is in but we have problems....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by droppedcrxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All you should need extra is the fan switch relocation, injector clips pinned on, blockoff plug pinned on, and the map/ purge control extended.
Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you mean blockoff plug exactly? and do i have to extend the EVAP purge control or can i just use the one that's mounted on the firewall?

there's a check engine light at 10, 14, and 16. these are the IA sensor, the IACV and the fuel injectors. the engine doesn't seem to idle very good but we havent' adjusted the TPS yet either, i plan on doin that today. also there's a rev limiter at about 3500 rpms now? i'm using the stock P28 ECU with the z6 and a jumper harness. and the injectors do not work unless i use the resistor box for the a6 but i read that i don't need to use the resistor box if i'm using the z6 fuel rail? so it runs but it definitly isn't running like it should.

 

bump for problems

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1275711
i put a pic in this thread that shows what you need to do with the plug for the resistor box, if you are using obd1+ injectors. the picture is basically a block off plug. fuel rail has no bearing. it's the injectors you're worried about. as for the iat try swapping the wires or try one from a junkyard. i don't know about the iacv.

 

try swapping the wires for the IAT? what do you mean by swapping? mine just ran right from the original plug to the sensor. i'll do the resistor box thing tomorrow along with the TPS sensor. Do you know anything that could cause my car to not rev past 3500 rpms?


while searching i'm seeing a lot of different opinions on the rev limit, some peole say get a new dizzy for the crank angle sensor, some say it's wiring, some say it's other stuff.........someone said that if the injectors are messed up it can have a rev limiter too? so this could be with my injectors right now. is there any modifing you have to do for wiring for the crank angle sensor or others that would mess with the rev limit?


Modified by j0nptw at 9:04 AM 6/14/2005

 

So did you figure out your problem? My b16 swap is having the same problems. I'm convinced it's the wiring of the distributor pins. Matching colors doesn't seem to work.

 

your car won't rev past 3500 if even just one of your injectors are not hooked up at all or correctly, also just finishing up the same swap we had to do the following:

1) run new o2 sensor wires to ecu
2) run new vtec wires to ecu
3) extend thermo sensor (originally behind motor, next to oil filter)
4) extend TA sensor wires (less than 6 inches)
5) extend oil pressure sensor (less than 4 inches)

from what i remember, that's all we did...? hope i helped

 

Back from the dead. lol
(note: you could have used the MAP sensor that's located on the Firewall)
By block off plug he means the 8 pin plug that goes in place of a injector resistor box.


Could be distributor related. Any codes? using a P28 right?
Sounds like a distributor problem to me, trypically when a car cant rev past a certain RPM without spark failing, it's the distributor igniter unit or really really horrible timing... or a crank angle code or something at the ECU.

If you want some professionals to reconstruct your harness for that engine, checkout http://www.rywire.com
The optional $50 package puts the subharness into your engine harness and relocates the fan switch, the OBD1 injector clips if you want to use OBD1 injectors.. etc..
You've got the 0-1 ECU jumper so scratch that off the price.

 

Thanks for the help guys! I've got all the VTEC and oil pressure and knock sensors hooked up. I'm going to try the injectors first and then the distributor. And then if I'm really stuck then I'll try rywire.

 

your d16z6 has a knock sensor?