another ls vtec question..
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From: home of the steel curtain, PA, USA
i currently have a gsr integra. its gettin up there in miles (170k) and im a bit leary about boosting it even though it pulls hard and has good compression. i guess there is something about blowing up a good gsr motor that i dont like too much haha.
anyways i was thinking i could get a ls bottom end and slap my head on it and just build the gsr block over time. my question is that would it be worth it? i have heard mixed things about ls vtec so i wasnt sure if its even worth it to do. i just wanna add some hp w/o nitrous or turbo for now.
anyways i was thinking i could get a ls bottom end and slap my head on it and just build the gsr block over time. my question is that would it be worth it? i have heard mixed things about ls vtec so i wasnt sure if its even worth it to do. i just wanna add some hp w/o nitrous or turbo for now.
Ls/Vtec is good. But I have heard horror stories about people just putting stock bottom with stock head. If you're gonna go this route, which I think is good, then you gotta go all the way. As in upgraded pistons, rods, valvetrain, etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mushvroom »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ls/Vtec is good. But I have heard horror stories about people just putting stock bottom with stock head. If you're gonna go this route, which I think is good, then you gotta go all the way. As in upgraded pistons, rods, valvetrain, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LS rods are good and reliable for LS/Vtec setup
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMdreamer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure to upgrade the LS bottom end so you can safely rev up to 8k</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok...so what is he going to need to "upgrade"? the only thing to reach 8k rpm would be Pistons, new head gasket, bearings
I don't see what else he would need to do
LS rods are good and reliable for LS/Vtec setup
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMdreamer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure to upgrade the LS bottom end so you can safely rev up to 8k</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok...so what is he going to need to "upgrade"? the only thing to reach 8k rpm would be Pistons, new head gasket, bearings
I don't see what else he would need to do
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by envision2teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy:
ls crank
ls rods
new oem pr3 or p30's
new bearing set
arp rod bolts
put it in your gsr block and your set.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i went with the pr3 oversized from honda... used stock b16 pistons on my first attempt and one of the cylinders wouldn't hold compression. with the oversized you can have them machined to fit
ls crank
ls rods
new oem pr3 or p30's
new bearing set
arp rod bolts
put it in your gsr block and your set.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i went with the pr3 oversized from honda... used stock b16 pistons on my first attempt and one of the cylinders wouldn't hold compression. with the oversized you can have them machined to fit
since you have a perfectly running gsr, i'd say leave that alone. why not go out and buy an ls block that has 100k + or something which i see on honda-tech a lot of times. I saw a longblock the other day for 150.
Rip that block apart. buy the p30's or jdm itr pistons.
brand new bearings. new water pump. new oil pump. remember that you have to buy a matching timing belt that equals to the water pump i.e.
if you buy a b18c1 water pump also GET a b18c1 timing belt.
arp rod bolts is a MUST
Make sure your headstuds are GSR vtec headstuds instead of b16 cuz there to short.
ge ls/vtec kit would make things easier
NEW bearings all OEM or ACL
rods can shot peened, but if you want extra insurance eagle rods.
after you have this built by the machine shop. then i suggest swapping the head over and work on the head w/ better cams w/ appropriate upgraded valvetrain.
and don't forget a GOOD header will net you a lot of power, don't be stingy on the header.
i'm only saying this because there will be no downtime unless you have another car, but it'll be a serious downtown unless you have all your cash saved up already. There are always unexpected expenses. just saving you some downtime of the car.
Modified by dragonz04 at 8:17 PM 5/30/2005
Rip that block apart. buy the p30's or jdm itr pistons.
brand new bearings. new water pump. new oil pump. remember that you have to buy a matching timing belt that equals to the water pump i.e.
if you buy a b18c1 water pump also GET a b18c1 timing belt.
arp rod bolts is a MUST
Make sure your headstuds are GSR vtec headstuds instead of b16 cuz there to short.
ge ls/vtec kit would make things easier
NEW bearings all OEM or ACL
rods can shot peened, but if you want extra insurance eagle rods.
after you have this built by the machine shop. then i suggest swapping the head over and work on the head w/ better cams w/ appropriate upgraded valvetrain.
and don't forget a GOOD header will net you a lot of power, don't be stingy on the header.
i'm only saying this because there will be no downtime unless you have another car, but it'll be a serious downtown unless you have all your cash saved up already. There are always unexpected expenses. just saving you some downtime of the car.
Modified by dragonz04 at 8:17 PM 5/30/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dragonz04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
NEW bearings all OEM </TD></TR></TABLE>
doesn't have to be oem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dragonz04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
rods can be ls or shot peened
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that doesn't even make sense....
NEW bearings all OEM </TD></TR></TABLE>
doesn't have to be oem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dragonz04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
rods can be ls or shot peened
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that doesn't even make sense....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMdreamer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure to upgrade the LS bottom end so you can safely rev up to 8k</TD></TR></TABLE>
hes right about that...u dont want to be reving till 9000k when ur block can only handle 76000k i believe it is on a b18b1...but also wont need to be reving so high unless you are actually creating power untill 9,000 rpm.
hes right about that...u dont want to be reving till 9000k when ur block can only handle 76000k i believe it is on a b18b1...but also wont need to be reving so high unless you are actually creating power untill 9,000 rpm.
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From: home of the steel curtain, PA, USA
thanks for the responses. anyways i was thinking of just picking up a ls long block and doing a few things and going turbo on it since i have most of the turbo stuff and my buddy is a good tuner. then while my gsr stuff is out i could be building that so when the ls has met its end ill have all my stuff ready to go all motor
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