Anyone running a DART block?...my motors screwed!!
whats up guys.
I need another bottom end and im not sure what to get. I was running a 2.0 LS Vtec....GE sleeves. Somehow got a tiny crack behind the dip stick (maybe from pressing in the sleeves) and it leaked coolant externally for a while....and now something let loose with the crack and my oil pan got filled with coolant
So i tore down the motor hoping it was just a headgasket or something stupid but the HG is fine....sleeves look ok. So i need a new block. I dont know whether its worth me getting another LS....sending it out to GE and having new sleeves installed and bored to 84mm or just buying a dart block and having that bored. Any of you guys running that thing?....it looks pretty indestructable. Any advice?
Something interesting: The first time i was at the dyno (after breaking motor in) we pulled off the valve cover and it was all milky looking....then it never looked like that again for 10k miles or so....and now this.....weird
I need another bottom end and im not sure what to get. I was running a 2.0 LS Vtec....GE sleeves. Somehow got a tiny crack behind the dip stick (maybe from pressing in the sleeves) and it leaked coolant externally for a while....and now something let loose with the crack and my oil pan got filled with coolant
So i tore down the motor hoping it was just a headgasket or something stupid but the HG is fine....sleeves look ok. So i need a new block. I dont know whether its worth me getting another LS....sending it out to GE and having new sleeves installed and bored to 84mm or just buying a dart block and having that bored. Any of you guys running that thing?....it looks pretty indestructable. Any advice?
Something interesting: The first time i was at the dyno (after breaking motor in) we pulled off the valve cover and it was all milky looking....then it never looked like that again for 10k miles or so....and now this.....weird
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PK SPEED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ill take the block if you dont want it anymore, Ill weld that sucka up and run it with no problems. Im serious too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Too bad he needs pretty much EVERY fitting, plug, bolt, and bracket on that block that they don't sell in stores if he gets the Dart block.
Too bad he needs pretty much EVERY fitting, plug, bolt, and bracket on that block that they don't sell in stores if he gets the Dart block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juiced2ndgenteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can buy a broken LS or b16 block for under $50, then you have all teh ish.</TD></TR></TABLE>
For one you don't know if all the stuff on there is still good or even if it's all there, and two if he's going to buy an LS block in the junker why not just get that sleeved instead of a dart block?
For one you don't know if all the stuff on there is still good or even if it's all there, and two if he's going to buy an LS block in the junker why not just get that sleeved instead of a dart block?
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I already took it to the machine shop. He said there is no way of fixing it. Cause how the hell would u get into the oil passage to weld the crack? I was running ARP studs btw.
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