PowerSlot Plus
Has anyone had any experience with this system?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "TireRack" »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Big brakes normally come with a big price tag. Until now.
The Power Slot Plus system features a premium quality, slotted brake rotor that is larger than the vehicle's Original Equipment rotor but that can still be used with the vehicle's original factory brake calipers. Included in the system are Power Slot's patented caliper relocation brackets. These brackets are used to space the factory caliper further away from the hub to accommodate the oversized brake rotor. This increases brake torque force without affecting pedal effort or travel. The larger rotor is also a more effective heat sink, absorbing the heat generated under heavy braking to greatly reduce brake fade and provide consistently shorter stopping distances, especially during higher speed driving.
Key Features
* Premium quality, larger diameter rotor
* 100% bolt-on system, no cutting or drilling
* Relocates the factory brake caliper for increased braking effectiveness
* No special brake pad sizes required, just use Original Equipment-sized high performance pad (sold separately)
* Complete hardware kit and comprehensive installation instructions included
NOTE: All Power Slot Plus systems require the use of larger diameter wheels. Check the dimensions of your wheels carefully before purchasing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "TireRack" »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Big brakes normally come with a big price tag. Until now.
The Power Slot Plus system features a premium quality, slotted brake rotor that is larger than the vehicle's Original Equipment rotor but that can still be used with the vehicle's original factory brake calipers. Included in the system are Power Slot's patented caliper relocation brackets. These brackets are used to space the factory caliper further away from the hub to accommodate the oversized brake rotor. This increases brake torque force without affecting pedal effort or travel. The larger rotor is also a more effective heat sink, absorbing the heat generated under heavy braking to greatly reduce brake fade and provide consistently shorter stopping distances, especially during higher speed driving.
Key Features
* Premium quality, larger diameter rotor
* 100% bolt-on system, no cutting or drilling
* Relocates the factory brake caliper for increased braking effectiveness
* No special brake pad sizes required, just use Original Equipment-sized high performance pad (sold separately)
* Complete hardware kit and comprehensive installation instructions included
NOTE: All Power Slot Plus systems require the use of larger diameter wheels. Check the dimensions of your wheels carefully before purchasing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think that kit would only be for looks.......
all the stopping power is in the calipers not the rotors.... correct?
i mean it is still clamping the same surface area.....just a larger diameter rotor.....
all the stopping power is in the calipers not the rotors.... correct?
i mean it is still clamping the same surface area.....just a larger diameter rotor.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by {Powered by R} »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i sell this rotor kit and i wanted to know if anyone has had any experience with it because it looks really good. hopefully we can get some feedback on it!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
what does the pricing look like on them?
</TD></TR></TABLE>what does the pricing look like on them?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmdr430 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think that kit would only be for looks.......
all the stopping power is in the calipers not the rotors.... correct?
i mean it is still clamping the same surface area.....just a larger diameter rotor.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then I wonder why the guys who track their cars uses bigger rotors?
Specially the ones that are crossed drilled or slotted!!! Nhaaaaa, what do they know!!! They just want to look good on the track!!! I guess that it has nothing to do with better brake cooling!!! Yea so, I guess rotors dont wear down, only the pads!
all the stopping power is in the calipers not the rotors.... correct?
i mean it is still clamping the same surface area.....just a larger diameter rotor.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then I wonder why the guys who track their cars uses bigger rotors?
Specially the ones that are crossed drilled or slotted!!! Nhaaaaa, what do they know!!! They just want to look good on the track!!! I guess that it has nothing to do with better brake cooling!!! Yea so, I guess rotors dont wear down, only the pads!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmdr430 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think that kit would only be for looks.......
all the stopping power is in the calipers not the rotors.... correct?
i mean it is still clamping the same surface area.....just a larger diameter rotor.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stopping power comes from tires.
But I know what you mean and it's a combination of everything. Increasing the diameter of the rotor and putting the caliper further out will help with brake torque.
http://www.carcraft.com/techar....html <---for the math nuts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DP24 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats the AEM big brake kit which is now being sold under the Powerslot name .....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep.
all the stopping power is in the calipers not the rotors.... correct?
i mean it is still clamping the same surface area.....just a larger diameter rotor.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stopping power comes from tires.

But I know what you mean and it's a combination of everything. Increasing the diameter of the rotor and putting the caliper further out will help with brake torque.
http://www.carcraft.com/techar....html <---for the math nuts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DP24 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats the AEM big brake kit which is now being sold under the Powerslot name .....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Then I wonder why the guys who track their cars uses bigger rotors?
Specially the ones that are crossed drilled or slotted!!! Nhaaaaa, what do they know!!! They just want to look good on the track!!! I guess that it has nothing to do with better brake cooling!!! Yea so, I guess rotors dont wear down, only the pads!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
They use bigger rotors because they have bigger calipers. He was saying why use bigger rotors when the calpiers are the same. The only benifit I see is more heat is dissapated away faster since they are bigger.
Then I wonder why the guys who track their cars uses bigger rotors?
Specially the ones that are crossed drilled or slotted!!! Nhaaaaa, what do they know!!! They just want to look good on the track!!! I guess that it has nothing to do with better brake cooling!!! Yea so, I guess rotors dont wear down, only the pads!
</TD></TR></TABLE>They use bigger rotors because they have bigger calipers. He was saying why use bigger rotors when the calpiers are the same. The only benifit I see is more heat is dissapated away faster since they are bigger.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Then I wonder why the guys who track their cars uses bigger rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>
We don't.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Specially the ones that are crossed drilled or slotted!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
We absolutely do not use cross drilled or slotted. At least the ones of us who are avid or track often.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nhaaaaa, what do they know!!! They just want to look good on the track!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks like we know less than you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess that it has nothing to do with better brake cooling!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
It doesn't. Slotted are for shedding pad material, and they eat up pads quite a bit faster than non. Cross drilled these days would only have benefits for lighter weight & wet weather braking.
[edited]
Out gassing is a thing of the past where slotting and cross drilling are concerned.
If you want to cool your rotors, remove the dust shields and or add cooling ducts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea so, I guess rotors dont wear down, only the pads!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both wear and some can be toasted in a weekend depending on the car, driver and course.
But crossdrilled are more susceptible to cracking prematurely and slotted kill the pads equally prematurely. Since many of us who track and or compete on track are on budgets and don't care to spend more than $30. to $50. a rotor since they are wear items and replaced often, even several times a season. These more exotic rotors are just a costly option that do not supply enough improvement to make the difference worth it.
Big brake kits require larger wheels, this is another added expense as well as changes the final drive ratio. Two things many of us are also not interested in.
Modified by 1GreyTeg at 9:20 PM 5/26/2005
Then I wonder why the guys who track their cars uses bigger rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>
We don't.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Specially the ones that are crossed drilled or slotted!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
We absolutely do not use cross drilled or slotted. At least the ones of us who are avid or track often.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nhaaaaa, what do they know!!! They just want to look good on the track!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks like we know less than you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess that it has nothing to do with better brake cooling!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
It doesn't. Slotted are for shedding pad material, and they eat up pads quite a bit faster than non. Cross drilled these days would only have benefits for lighter weight & wet weather braking.
[edited]
Out gassing is a thing of the past where slotting and cross drilling are concerned.
If you want to cool your rotors, remove the dust shields and or add cooling ducts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea so, I guess rotors dont wear down, only the pads!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Both wear and some can be toasted in a weekend depending on the car, driver and course.
But crossdrilled are more susceptible to cracking prematurely and slotted kill the pads equally prematurely. Since many of us who track and or compete on track are on budgets and don't care to spend more than $30. to $50. a rotor since they are wear items and replaced often, even several times a season. These more exotic rotors are just a costly option that do not supply enough improvement to make the difference worth it.
Big brake kits require larger wheels, this is another added expense as well as changes the final drive ratio. Two things many of us are also not interested in.
Modified by 1GreyTeg at 9:20 PM 5/26/2005
SLotted and cross drilled work great for track and bigger rotors are nice if you have a pad and caliper to take advantage of it
try these
from stoptech
Slotted AeroRotor DRK - Front
StopTech 2 Piece Slotted AeroRotor DRK for the front of the 2001 Acura Integra Type R. The kit includes a pair of 282x25mm, directional AeroRotor friction rings, 7075-T6 billet aluminum AeroHats with directional standoffs, and StopTech hat mounting kits with our proprietary inconel spring washer retenetion system to hold everything together. These parts are assembled and tested to order at StopTech headquarters in Torrance, California. These floating rotors are designed specifically to be used with the OE front calipers, so if you're looking for assembled two-piece replacement rotors for your StopTech Big Brake Upgrade, please contact us at sales@stoptech.com.
$450.00 - Item No. 81-054-9911
try these
from stoptech
Slotted AeroRotor DRK - Front
StopTech 2 Piece Slotted AeroRotor DRK for the front of the 2001 Acura Integra Type R. The kit includes a pair of 282x25mm, directional AeroRotor friction rings, 7075-T6 billet aluminum AeroHats with directional standoffs, and StopTech hat mounting kits with our proprietary inconel spring washer retenetion system to hold everything together. These parts are assembled and tested to order at StopTech headquarters in Torrance, California. These floating rotors are designed specifically to be used with the OE front calipers, so if you're looking for assembled two-piece replacement rotors for your StopTech Big Brake Upgrade, please contact us at sales@stoptech.com.
$450.00 - Item No. 81-054-9911
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you're saying bigger rotors, cross drilled or slotted is not good for track? Then what is it realy good for? Is it realy just there for looks?</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are not appropriate for our application. Slotted rotors are used in many, many professional racing series around the world...
They are not appropriate for our application. Slotted rotors are used in many, many professional racing series around the world...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you're saying bigger rotors, cross drilled or slotted is not good for track? Then what is it realy good for? Is it realy just there for looks?</TD></TR></TABLE>
For the budget minded track/HPDE driver that has to deal with the added cost of said items? Nope.
I personally wouldn't bother with cross drilled even if their cast in just because of the surface area lost.
For the budget minded track/HPDE driver that has to deal with the added cost of said items? Nope.
I personally wouldn't bother with cross drilled even if their cast in just because of the surface area lost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTionR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you're saying bigger rotors, cross drilled or slotted is not good for track? Then what is it realy good for? Is it realy just there for looks?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They are not appropriate for our application. Slotted rotors are used in many, many professional racing series around the world...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For the budget minded track/HPDE driver that has to deal with the added cost of said items? Nope.
I personally wouldn't bother with cross drilled even if their cast in just because of the surface area lost.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ps, Kyle do you remember that old, old post/topic where the myth of rotors with cast holes was discussed? Where the guy who was a engineer for Brembo actually was active and mentioned that even on their Porsche applications and others that he knew of, No iron rotors have cast holes, it just isn't cost effective nor would it be any stronger.
He went on further to mention that the only reason that there are holes in their Porsche application rotors was indeed Not for outgassing or heat dissipation but for better wet braking ability.
I'm gonna have to go find that now, it's been several years & reformats since reading that article.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They are not appropriate for our application. Slotted rotors are used in many, many professional racing series around the world...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For the budget minded track/HPDE driver that has to deal with the added cost of said items? Nope.
I personally wouldn't bother with cross drilled even if their cast in just because of the surface area lost.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ps, Kyle do you remember that old, old post/topic where the myth of rotors with cast holes was discussed? Where the guy who was a engineer for Brembo actually was active and mentioned that even on their Porsche applications and others that he knew of, No iron rotors have cast holes, it just isn't cost effective nor would it be any stronger.
He went on further to mention that the only reason that there are holes in their Porsche application rotors was indeed Not for outgassing or heat dissipation but for better wet braking ability.
I'm gonna have to go find that now, it's been several years & reformats since reading that article.
So you guys are saying that even if I had the money to spare for better brake system....
It wouldnt be worth buying something like slotted rotors for track use due to the fact that it cuts thrue the pads faster? What about better heat dissipation from the rotors?
It wouldnt be worth buying something like slotted rotors for track use due to the fact that it cuts thrue the pads faster? What about better heat dissipation from the rotors?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebelp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Black rotors!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
They look sweet!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>They look sweet!!
Originally Posted by IntegraTionR
So you guys are saying that even if I had the money to spare for better brake system....
It wouldnt be worth buying something like slotted rotors for track use due to the fact that it cuts thrue the pads faster? What about better heat dissipation from the rotors?
It wouldnt be worth buying something like slotted rotors for track use due to the fact that it cuts thrue the pads faster? What about better heat dissipation from the rotors?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1129503
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=894745
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=712177
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=655608
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=527628
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=334640
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=254818
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1039309
I think Weston's response sums it pretty decently:
Originally Posted by Weston
Blank rotors
I say no to ricer rotors because:
1) less pad contact area (no, the pads do not magically reach into the holes or slots)
2) tears up pads more
3) less strength (yes, even slots reduce the strength)
4) no real benefit
5) too expensive (it's a wear item and road racing goes through rotors like kleenex)
6) the less I have in common with ricers the better
The ricers say to get a big brake kit with drilled and slotted rotors. But the truth is that stock sized blank rotors are fine, because braking performance is really mostly in the pads and the tires. I run blank 10.3" front rotors with Cobalt Spec-B's on a pretty braking intensive track, in a turbo car, and while I have been able to overheat them a few times (no ducts, yet), it's really not a problem. Certainly not even close to justifying larger rotors and the greatly increased cost for new rotors every race weekend. But no amount of logic, explaination, and actual experience is enough for me to convince a determined ricer to not waste his money. The fact that a handful of real racers use them is more than enough justification for a ricer, never mind the fact those racers have totally different cars and totally different rotors from what's available on the rice market, and that they are in the minority.
Here is an incredibly good if not entertaining post from way way back from another board altogether:
http://www.nissanclub.com/foru...32327
Heres some more:
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm
http://www.teamscr.com/grmbrakes.htm
http://www.stoptech.com/technical/
Gotta hand it to the RRAX guys
Modified by 1GreyTeg at 9:08 PM 5/26/2005
Iggy,
Seen this from AEM before...interesting concept but some things to consider:
1) 12.9" rotor, my guess you will need to have 17" rims to run these. Which means if you don't have the rims, you'll need 'em. If you're serious, find out what size rims you need: at least 16" if not 17" It could turn out to be quite a capital investment.
2) Replacement rotors: source? From Powerslot or other sources? Cost? It's been said a million times before: these things are wear items.
I'm curious waht the width of the rotors are...
If you already have 16" rims and want bigger brakes, I'd suggest the lil' bastard DIY S2k brake conversion--it's the route I'll eventually go if need be. Otherwise stick with stock...maybe the Aero Rotors with NSX calipers or the Fastbrakes kit if you are bent on doing something to the brakes. Those are probably the most economical solutions.
Hope it helps. Good luck!
--
George
Seen this from AEM before...interesting concept but some things to consider:
1) 12.9" rotor, my guess you will need to have 17" rims to run these. Which means if you don't have the rims, you'll need 'em. If you're serious, find out what size rims you need: at least 16" if not 17" It could turn out to be quite a capital investment.
2) Replacement rotors: source? From Powerslot or other sources? Cost? It's been said a million times before: these things are wear items.
I'm curious waht the width of the rotors are...
If you already have 16" rims and want bigger brakes, I'd suggest the lil' bastard DIY S2k brake conversion--it's the route I'll eventually go if need be. Otherwise stick with stock...maybe the Aero Rotors with NSX calipers or the Fastbrakes kit if you are bent on doing something to the brakes. Those are probably the most economical solutions.
Hope it helps. Good luck!
--
George
Yeah. That's why I added the "cast" into part. Heh.
I'll readily admit that I was interested in the Stoptech 2 piece Aero Rotors for awhile. Since they're a OEM replacement, the size was right and the added benefit of unsprung weight got my pants feeling all funny. But I was one of those yahoos who also had the sp00m clappers for reduced unsprung weight, added fluid capacity and modulation. Would've been a perfect combo for track.
Then I saw the price ...
I'd probably would've rocked them if I was doing enough TTs.
I'll readily admit that I was interested in the Stoptech 2 piece Aero Rotors for awhile. Since they're a OEM replacement, the size was right and the added benefit of unsprung weight got my pants feeling all funny. But I was one of those yahoos who also had the sp00m clappers for reduced unsprung weight, added fluid capacity and modulation. Would've been a perfect combo for track.
Then I saw the price ...

I'd probably would've rocked them if I was doing enough TTs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by geometro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Iggy,
Seen this from AEM before...interesting concept but some things to consider:
1) 12.9" rotor, my guess you will need to have 17" rims to run these. Which means if you don't have the rims, you'll need 'em. If you're serious, find out what size rims you need: at least 16" if not 17" It could turn out to be quite a capital investment.
2) Replacement rotors: source? From Powerslot or other sources? Cost? It's been said a million times before: these things are wear items.
I'm curious waht the width of the rotors are...
If you already have 16" rims and want bigger brakes, I'd suggest the lil' bastard DIY S2k brake conversion--it's the route I'll eventually go if need be. Otherwise stick with stock...maybe the Aero Rotors with NSX calipers or the Fastbrakes kit if you are bent on doing something to the brakes. Those are probably the most economical solutions.
Hope it helps. Good luck!
--
George</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am really bent on getting the Active Gates, but I was searching for options and I came across these and was just curious.
I was looking at the Brembo setup but those need 17's, just like the Stoptech. My real options now I guess are the Mugen's, Endless, Spoon Monoblock, and TL hybrid setup.
Seen this from AEM before...interesting concept but some things to consider:
1) 12.9" rotor, my guess you will need to have 17" rims to run these. Which means if you don't have the rims, you'll need 'em. If you're serious, find out what size rims you need: at least 16" if not 17" It could turn out to be quite a capital investment.
2) Replacement rotors: source? From Powerslot or other sources? Cost? It's been said a million times before: these things are wear items.
I'm curious waht the width of the rotors are...
If you already have 16" rims and want bigger brakes, I'd suggest the lil' bastard DIY S2k brake conversion--it's the route I'll eventually go if need be. Otherwise stick with stock...maybe the Aero Rotors with NSX calipers or the Fastbrakes kit if you are bent on doing something to the brakes. Those are probably the most economical solutions.
Hope it helps. Good luck!
--
George</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am really bent on getting the Active Gates, but I was searching for options and I came across these and was just curious.
I was looking at the Brembo setup but those need 17's, just like the Stoptech. My real options now I guess are the Mugen's, Endless, Spoon Monoblock, and TL hybrid setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmdr430 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
all the stopping power is in the calipers not the rotors.... correct?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Increasing the rotor size and upgrading calipers increases the area of friction... however, increasing the rotor size and not upgrading the calipers doesn't increase anything but looks.
all the stopping power is in the calipers not the rotors.... correct?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Increasing the rotor size and upgrading calipers increases the area of friction... however, increasing the rotor size and not upgrading the calipers doesn't increase anything but looks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ff_terror »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Increasing the rotor size and upgrading calipers increases the area of friction... however, increasing the rotor size and not upgrading the calipers doesn't increase anything but looks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
incorrect, the braking torque is increased from the caliper being further out from the center of wheel.
This "kit" will also increase the front brake bias, which usually isn't a good thing for most cars, and won't address the downfalls that floating calipers have since you're just re-using stock.
caveat emptor
Increasing the rotor size and upgrading calipers increases the area of friction... however, increasing the rotor size and not upgrading the calipers doesn't increase anything but looks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
incorrect, the braking torque is increased from the caliper being further out from the center of wheel.
This "kit" will also increase the front brake bias, which usually isn't a good thing for most cars, and won't address the downfalls that floating calipers have since you're just re-using stock.
caveat emptor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This "kit" will also increase the front brake bias, which usually isn't a good thing for most cars, and won't address the downfalls that floating calipers have since you're just re-using stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
could you mabye elaborate a little more on this?
could you mabye elaborate a little more on this?



