after buddy club cam install car won idle? help
i had buddy club cams and cam gears installed on my b16 in my del sol.....now the car wont idle...i have to keep reving it or it will just die......has anybody had this problem before with thos cams? i searched and everybody said to do a tune up like wires,plugs,fuel filter etc and i did that and it still wont idle....after about 2k it sound fine...
maby somthing wasnt replaced correctally when installing.
did you also install adjustable cam gears at teh same time? maby they are off?
did you try reseting the ECU (unplug battery for about 30 seconds) ?
did you also install adjustable cam gears at teh same time? maby they are off?
did you try reseting the ECU (unplug battery for about 30 seconds) ?
You need to tune your motor after installing racing camshafts. Not tune up as in plugs and wires.. Did you just put them in with no way to tune them?
you need to lean out the A/f at idle on most aftermarket cams to start.
you need to lean out the A/f at idle on most aftermarket cams to start.
I had the same problem and it was because the timing belt was off a tooth. I think part of the reason we had a problem was because the Buddy Club cam gears we installed didn't have the stock markings on them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CPR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem and it was because the timing belt was off a tooth. I think part of the reason we had a problem was because the Buddy Club cam gears we installed didn't have the stock markings on them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i know buddy club cam gears suck...i lined my stock ones up with them and made my own marks....do they mess with the timing when i bring it to get tuned by my hondata??
yeah i know buddy club cam gears suck...i lined my stock ones up with them and made my own marks....do they mess with the timing when i bring it to get tuned by my hondata??
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o yeah and when im driving it kinda boggs and sputters alittle then it gets going...could this be the a/f to??or mainly timing? could it be possible that the fuel pump is bad?
Put your stock gears on and see if it clears up the problem ,then you will know if you were off a tooth. It sounds like you are if its sputtering.
had the prob check one of the wire connections there is two a blue and a black one of them is backwards it is the two that go into the head closest to the maifold u cant miss them if that doesnt work good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teggsr01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">had the prob check one of the wire connections there is two a blue and a black one of them is backwards it is the two that go into the head closest to the maifold u cant miss them if that doesnt work good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
i never took any wires out though...ut just incase where are the ones u are talking about? im thinking its the timing or it just needs to be tuned...and the fuel pump i cam hear it working so thats not the problem either
Modified by 94_Del Sol at 5:35 AM 5/24/2005
i never took any wires out though...ut just incase where are the ones u are talking about? im thinking its the timing or it just needs to be tuned...and the fuel pump i cam hear it working so thats not the problem either
Modified by 94_Del Sol at 5:35 AM 5/24/2005
ok now it idles but it bounces up and down alittle? all i did was take off some of the sensors and clean them up good (they were kinda wet) put them back on and it idles.....now i got to figure out what is causing it to jump around but atleast it doesnt stall lol
i had the same prob on my 00 si, i tried to clean the i.a.c.v. but it didn't help, so i went to honda and bought a new one now it idles perfect. Did you dent the little screen inside cuz that can cause it too.
i cleaned the iacv after i had the problem so it wasnt that i dont think...i was pretty carefull while doing it to...im getting pissed off i just want it to run normal
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you come to the meet on sunday i'll take a look at it for you..</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok cool..im gonna try and get it on the road tomorrow even though it needs a new paint job...i might stop by a shop and have them take a look at it but if i dont ill def. be at the meet (if it makes it that far haha)
p.s i still need to check for vac leaks but im pretty sure thats not it...whatelse could it mean if everytime i unplug my map sensor the car runs fine? bad map sensor or what?
Modified by 94_Del Sol at 10:40 PM 6/1/2005
ok cool..im gonna try and get it on the road tomorrow even though it needs a new paint job...i might stop by a shop and have them take a look at it but if i dont ill def. be at the meet (if it makes it that far haha)
p.s i still need to check for vac leaks but im pretty sure thats not it...whatelse could it mean if everytime i unplug my map sensor the car runs fine? bad map sensor or what?
Modified by 94_Del Sol at 10:40 PM 6/1/2005
Because of the bigger cams, your running less vaccuum in the intake manifold, so your ecu is dumping more fuel. Your map sensor is going haywire because of that in general terms.
Just start at 38 psi fuel pressure or so with vaccumm line on the fpr.
If the top and bottom end are in time, with no other problems, then your just running too rich, especially at idle.
If you have a vafc, from 1000-2000 rpms, just lean out the fuel mix at narrow throttle starting at -10%. Then just keeping decreasing fuel by 5 % increments until the idle levels off.
Adjust the throttle body screw above the throttle plate so your idle is at 750 rpms.
I've had it as much as -24% with stock injectors between 1000 and 2000 rpms at narrow throttle, so don't hestitate to go that far.
Just start at 38 psi fuel pressure or so with vaccumm line on the fpr.
If the top and bottom end are in time, with no other problems, then your just running too rich, especially at idle.
If you have a vafc, from 1000-2000 rpms, just lean out the fuel mix at narrow throttle starting at -10%. Then just keeping decreasing fuel by 5 % increments until the idle levels off.
Adjust the throttle body screw above the throttle plate so your idle is at 750 rpms.
I've had it as much as -24% with stock injectors between 1000 and 2000 rpms at narrow throttle, so don't hestitate to go that far.
as long as you don't have any mechanical problems, yes, that is all tuning.
you just need to get the car to the dyno though.
if i didn't have a vafc, i would just advance the exhaust cam like 2 degrees, and maybe evening retard the intake cam, just to help reduce reversion.
you just need to get the car to the dyno though.
if i didn't have a vafc, i would just advance the exhaust cam like 2 degrees, and maybe evening retard the intake cam, just to help reduce reversion.
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