He was trying to tighten one of the bolts on the valve cover and then SNAP....there goes the bolt. I was furious with him because I didnt want him to touch it in the first place. The screw broke right between the threaded and smooth part. What now? I really dont get how it broke that easily if they use an air wrench on it and he didnt even use a lot of torque in the first place. Is it safe to drive to a garage to get it fixed? Im really frustrated right now... Thanks....

 

get another bolt but yes should be fine to drive till you get it fixed

 

But how do I get old one out? Wouldnt I have to tap the old one and thread it out?

 

Just replace the cam cap bolt

 

You mean the one I broke? I have to get out the broken first before I go about putting a new one in...

 

take the valve cover off and replace the stud.

 

The only problem is that I know what it is or what it looks like. Do you think it would be possible to get a layout view of the cylinder head cover and the parts contained below it?

 

So you guys think really think its safe to drive for a day or two or atleast to school tomorrow morning? As long as I dont see oil leaking I should be fine right?

 

I did the same thing after I painted my valve cover, got too crazy on tightening the bolts down. My dad helped me drill it out and retap it. Went to sears and found another bolt to put in its place. Leaks a little oil every now and then but nothing to be worried about. I'm replacing the head anyways.

 

i have the 50mb real honda service manual including electronics on my computer, if you can stand to wait for 50mb to upload then i think it might be able to help you.

 

Just leave it.

I've done this many a time!

 

valve cover bolts are only supposed to be torqued down to 7 ft/lbs.

Since it's not in there really tight you should be able to use an easy-out to remove it. I wouldn't try drilling and re-tapping the hole unless you've don't that before. If you want to use an easy-out, you just drill and hole into the broken bolt and then take an easy-out in a tap handle and turn the easy-out counter clockwise into the hole you just drilled. The easy-out is tappered so it'll bite as you turn it in further. Then it should start to turn the broken thread out of the hole. You don't want to brake the easy-out, that'll make thing even harder on you. But since the valve cover bolts are easily broken with just a little to much torque, I think the easy-out should work fine. I wouldn't use it on rusted bolts or bolts with high torque specs. Also, make sure you select the correct easy-out and drill for the size threaded stud your removing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">valve cover bolts are only supposed to be torqued down to 7 ft/lbs.

Since it's not in there really tight you should be able to use an easy-out to remove it. I wouldn't try drilling and re-tapping the hole unless you've don't that before. If you want to use an easy-out, you just drill and hole into the broken bolt and then take an easy-out in a tap handle and turn the easy-out counter clockwise into the hole you just drilled. The easy-out is tappered so it'll bite as you turn it in further. Then it should start to turn the broken thread out of the hole. You don't want to brake the easy-out, that'll make thing even harder on you. But since the valve cover bolts are easily broken with just a little to much torque, I think the easy-out should work fine. I wouldn't use it on rusted bolts or bolts with high torque specs. Also, make sure you select the correct easy-out and drill for the size threaded stud your removing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I appreciate your advice. Now if I were to use this method as far as taking out the bolt what would I do to put the new one on? I wouldnt want to run into the same mistake that my friend did and be back to square one if you know what I mean....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaracin24 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I appreciate your advice. Now if I were to use this method as far as taking out the bolt what would I do to put the new one on? I wouldnt want to run into the same mistake that my friend did and be back to square one if you know what I mean.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

np

As for putting the new one in... Once you have the old one removed, just put the valve cover back on with the liquid gasket in the correct spots and then put all the bolts, including the new one, in until they just seat against the valve cover. Then go arround in an alternating pattern starting in the middle working outward and tighten the bolts to 7 ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench then use a 1/4" drive rachet. By using the 1/4" drive rachet you should be able to feel when the bolt is tight enough without over tightening it like you possibly could with a larger rachet.

 

Buy a new motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rad Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy a new motor</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just bought a used one costing me $1400 installed sorry pal I dont think so.......

 

I was just messing with you . The tips people gave you were good, but you probably already know that.

 

kick his *** sea bass...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cd_5TUNR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kick his *** sea bass... </TD></TR></TABLE>

hey why dont you go throw salt over your right shoulder!

Thanks for the help guys....