Well my ECU got fried.

Since this one came with an engine I'm having a hard time finding the right one for my car.

It has a b18c1 but as far as I know i've been running a Japanese ECU from a b16.

Can anyone point me to a place to get this one worked on or a replacement thanks.

 

generally, just get a replacement. and usually when something goes, theres a reason for it, such as bad wiring that causes a short every once in a while, or water got into your car, or something.

look on the ecu barcode, and in the middle you'll see a 3 digit code, like p28 or something. then just look for another one with that code.

but, if something's a hackjob in your wiring that fried your ecu, a new ecu will make it run like it did before, but chances are it'll get fried again.

 

What exactly is fried? Some things can be fixed, but others aren't worth the effort to track them down. If you don't fix the problem, the new ecu might end up like this one.

 

It was a little strange.
we're back from the club drop a friend off & when I tried to start the car I could hear that the Dist. wouldn't send spark. check it the next day & find chipped teeth. No biggie fixed that then as I went further into the problem I find a nice burn mark on the outside of the ECU. I talked to some local people & they said they couldn't find my ECU anywhere

The guys also told me that when I checked for spark that may have fried the ECU so I guess I'll have to go on that. I didn't know that on Hondas you couldn't pull a wire to check for spark.

The ecu has PR3 so anywhere I can find this?

thanks.

 

Go on ebay son........ huh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MeanieMe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The guys also told me that when I checked for spark that may have fried the ECU so I guess I'll have to go on that. I didn't know that on Hondas you couldn't pull a wire to check for spark.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is untrue. There is no reason you can't pull the plug wire and hold it near ground to check for spark. People do it all the time.

The tooth missing in the distributor sounds like something may have been shorted out, like one of the sensors. You also say there was a burn mark on the outside of the ecu? Could you explain that more? The PR3 was a japan only deal, but there are plenty to be found, on ebay, classifieds, etc. On the other hand, now sounds like a great time to convert to OBD1...

 

I thought that sounded fishy.
I wouldn't think an ECU would be that delicate.

when I opened the ECU it only seems that a transistor/resistor burned up. I can't tell what the number was but it looks like it could be repaired. The waffer still looks in one piece and the damage looks superficial.

Good idea about the OBDI.
I may start hunting for parts.

 

If you have a GSR engine and you are running a B16 ECU then you probably should start looking for a GSR ECU anyway.
The GSR has the IAB butterfly inside the intake manifold.
(Unless you have switched to a Skunk2 manifold to eliminate the IAB.)

So running that B16 computer on the GSR motor is SEVERLY hindering your performance.
The IAB is never going to activate!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a GSR engine and you are running a B16 ECU then you probably should start looking for a GSR ECU anyway.
The GSR has the IAB butterfly inside the intake manifold.
(Unless you have switched to a Skunk2 manifold to eliminate the IAB.)

So running that B16 computer on the GSR motor is SEVERLY hindering your performance.
The IAB is never going to activate!</TD></TR></TABLE>

So?
which ECU code would I need for a B18c1?

I Bought the full swap together so I never really researched what I really had.
all I know is it ran great & had really good MPG.

 

The B18C1 should use the P72 if the snail manifold is still on the head, if you have a skunk2 or any othere Type R style manifold then any chiped ecu should work......but you have to have the correct wireing done.....ie if you have an OBDO car you would use the PR3/PWO OBD1 you could use a chiped p28/p30/obd1pr3.

from your post i am going to assume you are still OBDO, i would find a second pr3 get the part number you need and find someone who can replace it to start with, if that dont work then look at buying a new ecu.....what part of Dallas do you live in.... I am in the dallas area and my be able to help you out pm a number