Been dealing with this code 9 (cyp sensor) for several years off and on but always comes down to ecu fixing issue. Replaced with new oem dizzy, then new rywire harness, now new ecu from Phearable.net (now 3rd ecu) and light is off! Went through same thing one year ago, same situation and instead of just keep buying new ecus every year sent to Xencron Tuning Solutions (past 2 ecus) and was told ecus were flawless and it must be in wiring. Well they were WRONG and I have something failing in ecu to cause this issue every year. Is anyone else out there that may know whats going wrong with ecu or someone that can repair and not charge me $65 dollars for nothing? ECU is the issue and just want some answers! Please anyone help! Need closure.

 

Well it sounds like you could take a few minutes to read a manual instead of throwing parts at your car. How hard is it to look up the resistance of the circuit and then go directly to those pins and verify that your ecu is seeing what it is suppose to see? I have cured three with new shielded wire alone. I have cured another with just a sensor. All 4 times I found the problem with just a radio shack meter.

Seems like you have alot of money and not much common sense. I'm not saying it cant be the ecu in your case, but you could have found the problem yourself 5 ecu's, one harness, and one dizzy ago.

 

Have you ever sent the ECU back here for me to check it?

Im not saying its not possible...but if you ordered more than one ECU and had the same issue both times, the chances of that are slim.

EDIT, just read that you sourced and sent me ECUs...and had us socket them for you. The Code 9 circuitry in the ECU has nothing to do with the chipping components on the board...looks like you just got unlucky twice.

 

He bought 2 socketed ecus from phearable that both ended up throwing code 9, he sent both of those ecus to you and you bench tested them. You said they checked out fine and when he recieved them back the code 9 still was popping up. Ended up buying just a regular Ecu from phearable and car started up without the code and so far is code free.

 

To chris' defense, I have had customers ship me ECUs with a code 9 problem. I have not only bench tested it, but tested it on a car and nothing. They replaced the same as the OP and always had the code. There is only so much you can do with a used part to check it out and make sure everything is correct.

 

 

I completely understand, I recommended him to send it to Chris. He is just frustrated as to how the problem keeps accuring and is un traceable.

 

To the first nice guy Iam a honda tech and have troubleshooted circuut numerous times and always leads to ecu. If u read previous post u will see what Ive done and been through with this issue. Ecu fixes issue and I know its in the ecu just frustrated due to Xencron telling me ecus are ok. There not ok just want to know whats failing so this does not happen again. Dont have alot of money just spent alot eliminating things on circuit from what Ive been told that ecus were good.

 

No one is blaming you or questioning you. Sometimes it is much harder to find a problem like that.

I had a customer that was getting a code 6 with every ecu outside of my tuning ECU. After 6 ecus, I told him to run new wires to ecu from the ECT. That fixed the problem, but it never had a issue with my tuning ecu. Something to think about.

 

While were talking Ecu problems, who here fixes them? I have 3to that will not prime the fuel pump but c14 is good on them.

 

Fuel pump isn't primed, its grounded by the ecu using a7, which then turns the relay on for the fuel pump.

 

Have you every thought that your problem is intermittent and just goes away after one of your many ecus? I have been working on cats for years ase certs and went to school for it. I have never replace an ecu. EVER. hear of people doing it all the time never fixes the problem. Try diagnosis or if you are not capable. Which that's what it sounds like. Then take it to someone else.

 

I was a honda technician for 10 years. Ive seen plenty of ecu's go bad. Including ECU's, SRS control units, and ABS control units.

 

Yep

 

Hi Gix. I'm one of the guys who sent my ecu to gix for code 9. He did his bench test and the ecu was working properly. Got it back and it still threw the code while in the car. I believe its a wiring problem. I was using a stock ecu for a few months after and it had no codes. Cleaned up the grounds and re-used the chipped ecu without any problems for about 3 weeks then the code 9 came back. I'm going to use a grounding kit and see if that should eliminate the problem all together.

 

Not sure if this is your problem, but a bad alternator can trigger that code. And be intermittent.

 

Sorry to bring the thread back from the dead, but I've found a fix that may be of help to others.

I have a USDM P91 which is throwing a code 9. I bench tested it with a Moates.Net Engine Simulator so I knew the fault was NOT a dizzy related problem.

Firstly, I was just fiddling around having a look and I decided to to connect a main capacitor to pin's B11 and B12 to help 'smooth' the signal. What do you know ... the problem disappeared!
Then I knew it was a signal issue, so I traced the pin B11 on the underside of the board which lead to a ceramic disc capacitor marked "102" at 'C4' on the top side ...

I replaced this capacitor and it now works perfectly.

Short version:
Trace pin B11 to the first capacitor you come across and replace it.