Setup:

D16y8 w/ an SC50 turbo. The shortblock will soon be balanced/blueprinted/rebuilt w/ crower rods and CP pistons then mated to a $2,000 head with some ARP studs. The goal is 380whp in a daily driver.

Aftermarket sleeves are out of the question. Don't mention them at all. I'm worried about the stock sleeve movement that causes headgasket failure in turbo D16 motors.

So should I get a blockguard or use nothing at all. They basically give blockguards away for free so I want to know if using one will be beneficial or detrimental.

 

i dont think a blockguard is gonna help you there, but if you're putting that much money into the head and not sleeves, then you're gonna find out sooner or later,

 

i ran 17 psi daily outa t3/to4b with stock sleeves and forged internals lasted 15k miles lovely, then she got stolen.

and i raped it like a taiwanese crack **** with buck teeth and she never broke..

d sleeves are pretty strong.

 

good to hear that, Ive seen too many smoked sleeves and headgaskets.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Smated to a $2,000 head</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm confused. You don't want to run sleeves, but spent $2k on a worked SOHC head? Am I missing something here?

If you were to spend that $2k into sleeves, you'd be able to run 30+psi and put down 400whp easy. A mild P&P head would have been enough.

But to answer your question, I would steer away from blockguards. With some ARPs and a nice HG, you should be set for 20psi, granted that your tuning is good. Watch the ignition timing and you'll be fine.

 

Well the money I spent on the head is gone already. I built that up a while ago. But now I'm toning down my build plans to save money for the future (i.e. a house).

I don't give two ***** about cracking a sleeve. That's not going to happen at 380whp, especially with my conservative tuning.

All I'm worried about is sleeve shifting.

 

Yeah I would of took the $2000 built and sleeved bottom and a stock head anyday of the week.
But to your question, the block guard should be helpfull to stable the pressure from causing the stock walls from flex and distortion to up to 14-17psi easy and proper tuning.

 

arp head bolts and 50 dollar block guard...i have a block guard i dont know if it helped but its definately not hurting it if your not worried about cracking a sleeve.

 

What about Block Posting?

Ive heard that block guards can cause areas of the sleeve to not get coolant flow, which can cause them to heat up and crack/warp...

 

gett a good block guard

install it RIGHT by a machine shop
and yes be done

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DefinitlyMaybe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ive heard that block guards can cause areas of the sleeve to not get coolant flow, which can cause them to heat up and crack/warp...</TD></TR></TABLE>


I don't know about that. The block guard is in full contact with the sleeves. And aren't they made of aluminum? With that low of a specific heat value I don't see why the heat won't transfer from the sleeves to the block guard to the coolant much less efficiently than just going from the sleeves to the coolant.

 

I am going with sleeves on my sohc but if you want to go with block guard then def. get it machined on and not just thrown in thurr.
Open deck = the suck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DefinitlyMaybe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive heard that block guards can cause areas of the sleeve to not get coolant flow, which can cause them to heat up and crack/warp...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Definetely a misconception. If your that worried about overheating buy a lower temp thermostat (160 degree) and a full core radiator (which I would do anyways if I was planning 380whp dd. And be done with your overheating issues. I didnt install a blockguard in my motor, but next time around I'm thinking definetly.

 

yeah, a properly designed blockguard, properly installed, is a great way to add some piece of mind, and might actually help...i'm not sure..i havent been "sold" on anything yet, but i'm in the market for a blockguard...

my buddy has a GE one he just installed in his SOHC with eagle rods/vitara pistons, and he's haveing NO heating issues. the guard is aluminum, and it shouldnt affect the cooling capabilities of the top of the sleeve.

 

who here has had headlifting issues WITH a block gaurd?

 

Good tuning is what you should be worried about... not the sleeves or a block guard.

 

Have you ever looked into block filler?

That is another cheap option that makes for a super strong block...

 

My buddy uses block filler (460whp B16), but it's a drag car. Just forget about the block guard and tune your car well. A block guard isn't going to save your sleeves... good tuning will.

 

But I'm not worried about the integrity of the sleeves, I'm worried about them shifting. I will definitely tune it well, but the sleeves rock when you are making high hp right?