Thinking about the mani for a DIY project

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 4, 2005 | 04:14 PM
  #1  
Boosted96EK's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL, USA
Default Thinking about this mani for a DIY project

Im thinking of making this mani for a DIY project for my sohc and also because I bought a welder, find it entertaining to melt 2 pieces of metal together and dont like the thought of paying someone to do something I can do... Onward...

This is a mani I believe legendboy on here made...


This is the way I'd like to do it...


Would the angle the wastegate is placed at that location matter (planning on keeping a/c so i'd have to angle it more for my tial to claer the a/c condensor)?In addition to changing the WG placement (if not it would basically be the same thing as running a drag mani, which I already have and hence would be wasting my time), I was thinking that I would attempt to basically run a 45* angle for runner 2 and 3 and try to merge it to the runners on 1 and 4 for a better transition. I'd like some feedback on this idea....

Also the welder I have is a Lincoln Electric Weld Pak 100HD with the mig conversion kit... Any of you who have had experience with this machine I'd also like to hear your thoughts on completing this project with this machine...

TIA
Reply
Old May 5, 2005 | 07:44 AM
  #2  
Boosted96EK's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL, USA
Default

bump...

Are there any downsides to using mild steel as aposed to stainless steel? Which gas should I use for mild steel and which should I use for ss if i decided to go that route? I was thinking of using schedule 10, would that be fine or should I use something else? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!

TIA
Reply
Old May 5, 2005 | 11:19 AM
  #3  
asylumxl's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: England
Default Re: (Boosted96EK)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted96EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump...

Are there any downsides to using mild steel as aposed to stainless steel? Which gas should I use for mild steel and which should I use for ss if i decided to go that route? I was thinking of using schedule 10, would that be fine or should I use something else? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!

TIA</TD></TR></TABLE>

dunno about the schedule part but mild steel rusts for one and it takes less heat then s/s. i also believe that mild steel is more likely to crack.
Reply
Old May 5, 2005 | 02:16 PM
  #4  
Boosted96EK's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL, USA
Default Re: (asylumxl)

Yeah I know mild steel rusts... but im not really concerned about rust because I plan on ahving it coated... I do need to know if schedule 10 is good enough.... and what gas I should use... If ss is better than mild for this I have no problems going with ss...
Reply
Old May 5, 2005 | 04:19 PM
  #5  
sporkcrx's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,272
Likes: 0
From: broke in the bay area, CA
Default Re: (Boosted96EK)

Mild steel will be fine. Gas you want to use co2/argon. The hardest part about the whole project will be cutting everything to fit good.
Reply
Old May 5, 2005 | 05:17 PM
  #6  
RCautoworks's Avatar
Honda-Tech Member
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 17,227
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
Default Re: (sporkcrx)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sporkcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mild steel will be fine. Gas you want to use co2/argon. The hardest part about the whole project will be cutting everything to fit good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep mild steel will work fine. As far as the cuts go, they don't look that bad. The 4 outer tubes look almost the same, but just reversed. And the 2 bottom ones going to the collector look the same as the outer ones, just turned upside down.
Reply
Old May 5, 2005 | 08:12 PM
  #7  
fookle's Avatar
Honda-Tech Member
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 582
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR, US
Default

the larger picture you posted has a poor wastegate flange location, chances are you might see some creep from that.

better off putting it where they merge at the flange like the lower pic.
Reply
Old May 5, 2005 | 08:45 PM
  #8  
Bailhatch's Avatar
Honda-Tech Member
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,517
Likes: 1
From: ME
Default Re: (Boosted96EK)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted96EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I know mild steel rusts... but im not really concerned about rust because I plan on ahving it coated... I do need to know if schedule 10 is good enough.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I doubt they even make 1.5" weld els in sch10 mild.
Reply
Old May 6, 2005 | 12:47 AM
  #9  
cua0's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 616
Likes: 0
From: Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
Default

sched 10 is too thin.
mild steel is LESS likely to crack than stainless.
i would stick to the sched 40 weld el's personally, that way you know there's lots of meat to support your weld as well as the 20lbs or so of your turbo.
also brace the turbo off the block.
Reply
Old May 6, 2005 | 04:46 AM
  #10  
Boosted96EK's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL, USA
Default

Ok... schedule 40 it is... whats the recommended OD? 1.5"? Also what size 90's should I get 1.5" center to center or 2.25"?


Modified by Boosted96EK at 9:01 AM 5/6/2005
Reply
Old May 6, 2005 | 06:16 AM
  #11  
Honda-Pilot's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Santa Margarita, CA, 93453
Default Re: (Boosted96EK)

I made a log manifold. Before you weld the runners together, squish the ends so the runners are more matched to the oval flange head flange. Do this BEFORE welding the runners together or it will put a lot of stress on the welds. Good luck!
Reply
Old May 8, 2005 | 11:35 AM
  #12  
fastcivicboy's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 407
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Tx., USA
Default

sch 10 should be fine and is thick enough. All my manifolds are made out of this and never have cracked. Sch. 40 is just way to thick. Believe me you will be more happy going with sch. 10 and once you get it you will realize it's way thick enough unless you are supporting some CRAZY weight. (twin turbo or somthing in this area)
Reply
Old May 9, 2005 | 05:14 AM
  #13  
Boosted96EK's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL, USA
Default

its just supporting a air research/garrett t3/t04 for my lil sohc
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
almostjdmeg
Forced Induction
2
Feb 8, 2010 01:40 PM
jack meholf
Forced Induction
40
Apr 13, 2009 09:45 AM
spoolin turbo s
Forced Induction
7
Nov 4, 2008 05:59 PM
turbosi03
Forced Induction
7
May 13, 2003 05:16 AM
twkdCD595
Forced Induction
27
Sep 29, 2002 10:43 PM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:16 AM.