anybody here self install a Quaife LSD?
anybody here self install a Quaife LSD?
I have a 1997 Honda Civic EX with the SOHC VTEC motor with the stock tranny. I also checked their site and it looks like the price dropped about $200!
now it's $695. Very attractive.
thanks for the help in advance,
aj
I have a 1997 Honda Civic EX with the SOHC VTEC motor with the stock tranny. I also checked their site and it looks like the price dropped about $200!
now it's $695. Very attractive.
thanks for the help in advance,
aj
From what i've been told, on a honda its not a plug-and-play operation. It has to be setup by a shop, and can run $400-500, with the work going into shims and setting the tolerances correctly.
-Ryan
-Ryan
Its not too bad with the Dseries trannies, no preload to set like the Bseries. Only real pain is removing the old Final Drive Gear, you will need impact tools. While your at it, install a new speedo gear, new bearings and get new bolts for the final drive gear (my bolts were beat after removing the gear). To make life easy, heat the gear and bearings to aid their installation. You do have to measure one thing, but you just get a different shim if need be, I was lucky I had some old trannies laying around with shims I could use. Use a Helms. HTH.
Its not too bad with the Dseries trannies, no preload to set like the Bseries. Only real pain is removing the old Final Drive Gear, you will need impact tools. While your at it, install a new speedo gear, new bearings and get new bolts for the final drive gear (my bolts were beat after removing the gear). To make life easy, heat the gear and bearings to aid their installation. You do have to measure one thing, but you just get a different shim if need be, I was lucky I had some old trannies laying around with shims I could use. Use a Helms. HTH.
Pete [username: Pest] helped/is helping, me with mine. I think he's still trying to get over the cleanliness of my 350 mile transmission. Everything I know about it is heresay, so I'll hold off on the advice. He's a good person to contact if you need advice since he's done a couple now... with the help of a machine shop and a little trial and error.
The key seems to be not breaking the speedo gear getting it off and getting the preload right if you have tapered roller-bearings.
[Modified by JeffS, 4:32 PM 2/4/2002]
The bolts that hold the FD are REVERSE thread.
I think Quaiffe comes with new bolts because their units have regular threads. (right handed threads that is)
I put in an ITR LSD into my GSR and it was pretty easy.. just a little intimidating.
The bolts that hold the FD are REVERSE thread.
I think Quaiffe comes with new bolts because their units have regular threads. (right handed threads that is)
I think Quaiffe comes with new bolts because their units have regular threads. (right handed threads that is)
[Modified by JeffS, 6:07 PM 2/4/2002]
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owen: How do you like the ITR LSD and how much did you pay for it (new)? So the ITR OEM one is easier to install than the Quaiffe one?
Would an experienced transmission shop know how to deal with all these issues/idiosyncracies of the Quaiffe LSD? or would they be idiots and start braking and stripping things?
Would an experienced transmission shop know how to deal with all these issues/idiosyncracies of the Quaiffe LSD? or would they be idiots and start braking and stripping things?
got mine used from a '00 R for $420 shipped.
then new bearings for the install were $50 for the pair.
the difference is night and day when autocrossing or hard cornering... such a different car now, it is so easy to drive more smoothly while pushing the limits.
then new bearings for the install were $50 for the pair.
the difference is night and day when autocrossing or hard cornering... such a different car now, it is so easy to drive more smoothly while pushing the limits.
So a used R LSD with new bearings (im assuming thats the part that wears the most, sorry dont know too much about LSD's) would come out to roughly $500 give or take. Would the extra $350 for a Quaife be worth it? I read R owners rave about LSD upgrades, so wouldnt it be better to spend the extra 350 for a new, better, lifetime warrentied LSD??
I read R owners rave about LSD upgrades, so wouldnt it be better to spend the extra 350 for a new, better, lifetime warrentied LSD??
of course it is smarter to buy a new Quaiffe LSD, but that seemed like overkill considering the differences between the two, what I use my car for, and other mods I needed to buy to make me competitive in my scca autox class since the LSD was in the car (brakes, suspension, motorwork.. etc.). It put me into Street Mod with crazy/perfect/strong contenders... mostly 300zx twin turbos, 5.0 mustangs an dother assorted cars that are very very tweaked
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would the ITR LSD work in the 99-00 Civic Si tranny? Or should one source a CTR tranny that comes with the Helical Cut LSD?
I like the fact that the Quiafe is a Torsen (Torque Sensing) diff.
I like the fact that the Quiafe is a Torsen (Torque Sensing) diff.
would the ITR LSD work in the 99-00 Civic Si tranny? Or should one source a CTR tranny that comes with the Helical Cut LSD?
I like the fact that the Quiafe is a Torsen (Torque Sensing) diff.
I like the fact that the Quiafe is a Torsen (Torque Sensing) diff.
yes it will work and i have a brand new 2001 itr lsd with the barrings for 425 plus shipping...im me for details!
Wrong, the term "one way" is applicable to clutch type LSD's. The pedominant thinking on available types is that a softer suspention allows a worm gear type differential, Torsen to unload and allows wheel spin on corner exit, while a clutch type will be much more consistant for softer suspensions.
The factory ITR unit is a Torsen style differential. It really is a torque biasing assembly. The Quaife is also a Torsen style torque biasing differential. The difference is the preload spring washer in the center of the Quaife that makes it unique.
Torsen style diffs work by multiplying the torque (available traction) on the wheel with LESS traction and transfering that multiplied torque to the wheel with MORE traction. The problem is that if there is NO torque on one wheel (0 traction) the multiplied torque is still 0, and it acts like an open diff.
The Quaife preload spring washer creates an initial amount of torque (between the axle ends) that can be multiplied and transferred even with one wheel off the ground.
I use a self installed Quaife in my GSR and have for a number of years.
Clutch type Differentials
2-Way Limited-slip
A limited-slip differential that delivers the limited slip effect during both acceleration and deceleration. Stabilizes vehicle attitude during braking, thereby permitting even harder braking. Delivers powerful traction during acceleration, but clearly makes turning more difficult.
1.5-Way Limited-slip
Reduces the limited-slip effect during deceleration while maintaining the full limited-slip effect during acceleration. This ensures powerful traction and, during braking, prevents excessive reduction in the force of the car attempting to turn. Free of quirkiness, this is a good all-around limited-slip unit.
1-Way limited-slip
This limited-slip activates the limited-slip effect only during acceleration, and so is suitable for fwd vehicles, which are difficult tu turn under any conditions. The absence of the limited-slip effect during braking makes it possible to maximize turning power. However, the tendency of the vehicle to lose stability during braking should be noted. The shortcoming of this type of limited-slip is that vehicle characteristics during acceleration change greatly when the accelerator is released to decelerate.
LSD Referance
http://www.quaifeamerica.com/ http://www.quaife.co.uk/info/links.htm http://home.earthlink.net/~jonaa/Torsen2.html http://members.aol.com/solomiata/MiataVLSD.html http://www.kaazusa.com/index.html http://www.a-t-s.co.jp/e-atshtml/frame.html
The factory ITR unit is a Torsen style differential. It really is a torque biasing assembly. The Quaife is also a Torsen style torque biasing differential. The difference is the preload spring washer in the center of the Quaife that makes it unique.
Torsen style diffs work by multiplying the torque (available traction) on the wheel with LESS traction and transfering that multiplied torque to the wheel with MORE traction. The problem is that if there is NO torque on one wheel (0 traction) the multiplied torque is still 0, and it acts like an open diff.
The Quaife preload spring washer creates an initial amount of torque (between the axle ends) that can be multiplied and transferred even with one wheel off the ground.
I use a self installed Quaife in my GSR and have for a number of years.
Clutch type Differentials
2-Way Limited-slip
A limited-slip differential that delivers the limited slip effect during both acceleration and deceleration. Stabilizes vehicle attitude during braking, thereby permitting even harder braking. Delivers powerful traction during acceleration, but clearly makes turning more difficult.
1.5-Way Limited-slip
Reduces the limited-slip effect during deceleration while maintaining the full limited-slip effect during acceleration. This ensures powerful traction and, during braking, prevents excessive reduction in the force of the car attempting to turn. Free of quirkiness, this is a good all-around limited-slip unit.
1-Way limited-slip
This limited-slip activates the limited-slip effect only during acceleration, and so is suitable for fwd vehicles, which are difficult tu turn under any conditions. The absence of the limited-slip effect during braking makes it possible to maximize turning power. However, the tendency of the vehicle to lose stability during braking should be noted. The shortcoming of this type of limited-slip is that vehicle characteristics during acceleration change greatly when the accelerator is released to decelerate.
LSD Referance
http://www.quaifeamerica.com/ http://www.quaife.co.uk/info/links.htm http://home.earthlink.net/~jonaa/Torsen2.html http://members.aol.com/solomiata/MiataVLSD.html http://www.kaazusa.com/index.html http://www.a-t-s.co.jp/e-atshtml/frame.html
Great info!!!! 
Very good summary of Limited Slips, and very to the point and techincal.
you get a
Ryan - who is enjoying the benefits of the LSD in his RX7 after driving around the autoX course with one wheel for the past few years.... (fwd, open diff saturns)
[Modified by Type-RJ, 1:18 AM 2/7/2002]

Very good summary of Limited Slips, and very to the point and techincal.
you get a
Ryan - who is enjoying the benefits of the LSD in his RX7 after driving around the autoX course with one wheel for the past few years.... (fwd, open diff saturns)
[Modified by Type-RJ, 1:18 AM 2/7/2002]
Clutch type Differentials
2-Way Limited-slip
A limited-slip differential that delivers the limited slip effect during both acceleration and deceleration. Stabilizes vehicle attitude during braking, thereby permitting even harder braking. Delivers powerful traction during acceleration, but clearly makes turning more difficult.
1.5-Way Limited-slip
Reduces the limited-slip effect during deceleration while maintaining the full limited-slip effect during acceleration. This ensures powerful traction and, during braking, prevents excessive reduction in the force of the car attempting to turn. Free of quirkiness, this is a good all-around limited-slip unit.
1-Way limited-slip
This limited-slip activates the limited-slip effect only during acceleration, and so is suitable for fwd vehicles, which are difficult tu turn under any conditions. The absence of the limited-slip effect during braking makes it possible to maximize turning power. However, the tendency of the vehicle to lose stability during braking should be noted. The shortcoming of this type of limited-slip is that vehicle characteristics during acceleration change greatly when the accelerator is released to decelerate.
2-Way Limited-slip
A limited-slip differential that delivers the limited slip effect during both acceleration and deceleration. Stabilizes vehicle attitude during braking, thereby permitting even harder braking. Delivers powerful traction during acceleration, but clearly makes turning more difficult.
1.5-Way Limited-slip
Reduces the limited-slip effect during deceleration while maintaining the full limited-slip effect during acceleration. This ensures powerful traction and, during braking, prevents excessive reduction in the force of the car attempting to turn. Free of quirkiness, this is a good all-around limited-slip unit.
1-Way limited-slip
This limited-slip activates the limited-slip effect only during acceleration, and so is suitable for fwd vehicles, which are difficult tu turn under any conditions. The absence of the limited-slip effect during braking makes it possible to maximize turning power. However, the tendency of the vehicle to lose stability during braking should be noted. The shortcoming of this type of limited-slip is that vehicle characteristics during acceleration change greatly when the accelerator is released to decelerate.
God Damm they've come down in price! I paid 900$ for mine in a group buy two years ago and thought i was getting a killer deal. O well
Installing it isn't too dificult if you have time, tools and a helms manual. A dedicated transmission jack makes the job a lot more pleasant as well.
One caveat. when you lift the transmisson case away from the bell housing the main shaft end bearing likes to hang out in the case and then commit suicide over any nice hard surface. Ask me how I know this
Anyway. if the bearing comes off, be very carefull to put it back on in the right orientation. The manual has a little section diagram through the bearing. STUDY IT. If you put it on wrong and drive on it for any length of time you can kiss the third gear syncro good buy. Again, any questions on why i know this
Mike
Installing it isn't too dificult if you have time, tools and a helms manual. A dedicated transmission jack makes the job a lot more pleasant as well.
One caveat. when you lift the transmisson case away from the bell housing the main shaft end bearing likes to hang out in the case and then commit suicide over any nice hard surface. Ask me how I know this
Anyway. if the bearing comes off, be very carefull to put it back on in the right orientation. The manual has a little section diagram through the bearing. STUDY IT. If you put it on wrong and drive on it for any length of time you can kiss the third gear syncro good buy. Again, any questions on why i know this
Mike
If you're not in a hurry to throw one in, you might want to watch the classified boards or Ebay. I bought my Quaife (integra) for $700 shipped. He threw in a tube of hondabond and a set of gaskets.
I personally have sold a quaife (prelude) after buying it and deciding to sell the car before the install. I would imagine that's fairly common considering how hard it is to find an installer sometimes.
I personally have sold a quaife (prelude) after buying it and deciding to sell the car before the install. I would imagine that's fairly common considering how hard it is to find an installer sometimes.
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