I used Quaker state "High RPM" 10w-30 synthetic blend after I seafoamed my B16a today.

The smoke was unbelievable (seafoam) lol. Every red light someone would motion for me to roll down my window and thought they should tell me, "your car is blowing smoke out pretty badly,"....lol, like I didn't notice the huge thick cloud of steam cleaning smoke BILLOWING out my exhaust tip filling the street up behind me. Thank god the highway was one light up. on-ramp and I punched it some to get the rest out. For a good 5 min it was still pretty thick and then slowly diminished until no more smoke

Then I've been wanting to try out that new Quaker state "High rpm" stuff so I bought 4 qts of it. Got hooked up at quick lube from some friends for basically nothing (didn't feel like getting dirty today ) to change it w/ new filter and oil.

On the way home I noticed some more usefull power up in the 7300-8000 rpm range that never seemed to be there. I never really had any more power after around 7500rpm, it would feel like it was just winding out to 8000rpm with little to no gain in speed. Now it makes smooth power all through-out the high rpm range. I am very happy with this stuff and might just keep using it depending on how my oil looks next oil change

Parrafin wax based...whoever said that is a ******* moron

 

i was going to sea-foam mine today and change the oil, but it goot too late .

 

seafoam is mad jay-D EM

 

 

at what milage should you do this?

 

I have heard of a few people around my area who do the sea foam thing before getting emissions testing done, but what exactly is the benefit of sea foam. Thx and srry for the uneducated ques.

 

what the heck is seafoam?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg8000rpm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On the way home I noticed some more usefull power up in the 7300-8000 rpm range that never seemed to be there. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Bullshit. Put it on the dyno, that'll prove you didn't gain but MAYBE 1whp, and you would't be able to feel that

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 555R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what the heck is seafoam?</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you kidding me? it's a liquid you put into your motor to clean out carbon deposits. works pretty well

 

sounds like the old autotrans fluid into the intake deal a few people i know have done
but no i never heard of seafoam

 

i do believe the search button owns all of you. this is one of my friends threads that he started way back when. very very good info on seafoam

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=755765

 

just searched for it
thank you

 

ok here's a how-to for a Camaro...pretty much identical except for location of brake booster and what not.
_____________
1. Park car in a well-ventilated area.

2. Start car and run until it reaches closed loop (generally 5-10 minutes, and above 160°).

3. Open hood.

4. Find black hose that runs from the middle of the driver's side of the intake manifold into the black box on the firewall. This is the brake booster hose.

5. Remove the hose end from the black box; you'll hear the vacuum and the car's idle change.
* If your car stalls out, then use the middle hose that attaches to the passenger side of the throttle body. It's an L-shaped piece of hose, that connects to a black box mounted on the pass. side of the intake manifold. Pull the end connected to that box, and use that for sucking the liquid in, detailed below.

6. Place end of hose into the top of the Carbon Cleaner bottle. Allow it to suck liquid out until the engine starts to idle noticeably lower; then remove the hose from the bottle. Do not pour enough to stall the engine yet.
* Warning: Sea Foam does not recommend sticking a vacuum line into the bottle, but rather pouring the liquid into the line by using your thumb over the top of the bottle to regulate the flow. This prevents too much liquid from being drawn in and possible hydro-locking. It is your choice how to do it, at your own risk.

7. Repeat the above until between 1/3 and 1/2 of the liquid has been used.

8. Now let enough of the liquid be sucked in until it stalls the engine.

9. Turn off ignition.

10. Replace black hose end into brake master cylinder (the black box on the firewall).
* If you used the throttle body connection, reconnect it back to the black box.

11. Pour the remaining 2/3-1/2 of Carbon Cleaner into crankcase (through the oil filler tube). If you want to be exact per its instructions, you can measure out about 7.5 ounces to add to a full oil supply of 5 quarts. This turns out to be between 1/3 and 1/2 of the can.

12. Pour other full bottle of Carbon Cleaner liquid into gas tank.

13. Remove intake bellows from throttle body and push up out of the way.

14. Have someone (or something) press the gas pedal all the way down, or manually move the throttle cable assembly under the hood, until the throttle blades are fully open.

15. Spray Sea Foam Deep Creep into throttle body, fully soaking the blades, the bottom, top, and up and down into the intake manifold behind the throttle body. Use a good amount.

16. Wipe off excess liquid and visible deposits from the throttle body and blades with a shop or paper towel (especially around the edges of the blades), and reconnect intake bellows.

17. Let car sit for a total of 15 minutes from the point you stalled the engine (however much of the 15 minutes is left after you've done steps 9-16).

18. Start car (it will be harder than normal).

19. Immediately take the car for a spirited drive, being sure to rev high as well as put a load on the engine to make best use of the Sea Foam in the oil valleys and lifter and ring areas. Enjoy the fogging of your neighborhood. Then take it to the gas station and fill up the tank with 91+ octane (as always).