I had a computer check this past week and i was told that i had a bad tps sensor and injectors. today i did lots of things to the car for example i changed my whole throtte body w/ TPS sensor.
The car would still idle bad so my friend and i cleaned all 4 injectors. MAANNN the needle still continued to fluncuate between 900 rpms to 2000rpms. My friend had to take off so my father and decided to check the timing and everthing aligned right.
Next we did a valve adjustment job and now my ride sounds smooth but then after awhile the car continued to idle bad. I test drove my ride it runs smooth but when u get to a stop the engine accelerates then it goes back down. It starts from 900 to 2000 RPMs then back down to 900 then like around 1600 then back down until goes back to idle. Sometimes it would rev up 2000RPMs for about 5seconds then go back to normal. someone told me it can be my catylic converter. I really dont know anymore the engine light does not turn. What could it be?

 

oh symptoms are popping, bad idle, slight back fire,stutturing

 

hmm sounds like my motor b16aII when i first swapped it. it would fluctuate back and forth when it had no map sensor. but i threw a code for that. got the map sensor in and it cure the problem. in your situation, seems there might be one of these problems:

-vacuum leak (check all vacuum or renew them)

-idle adjust screw (adjust it too much or less will change idle big time. i loosened mine too much and it fluctuates when i idle at a stop. in my theory, this idle screw does affect ignitioin timing)

-air flow in the exhaust system (i had an exhaust that destroyed my throttle response. i tried gutting the cat, it didn't help the throttle or studdering. i put a stock exhaust on, and everything feels fine now.)

i hope these give you an idea. good luck!

 

thanks for your concern. Uhhmmm mine does have a map sensor and it was changed also when i did the t.b. swap. I did fool around with the idle but did not solve the problem. I really dont know what it is. im going to disconnect the cat its 94 EJ1 so it doesnt have any O2 sensors on it so lets see what happens. Does anybody want to give it a try.

 

anybody? i know this is stupid of me the way this happened is that i was about to shift to fourth when accidently shifted to second i was at 6000rpms when this happened if this helps.

 

adjusted the tps sensor to .49 volts and the idles fine well sort of. The idle doesnt fluncuate like it used too. i did notice when i let go of the gas slowly(used to drop faster) the rpm needle deaccelerated then it accelerates to 1400 then back to 700. The stuttering is still there it really is getting to me. I already fiddled with the idle screw and it still stutters. what could it be?

 

dude, i had the same problem back then.try cleaning your throttle body

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baurtwell_ekhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, i had the same problem back then.try cleaning your throttle body</TD></TR></TABLE>

i did when i changed the throttle body.

 

Check your spark plugs, my idle was all messed up and I checked my spark plugs and they were fried. goodluck

 

lol, this sounds like what im going through right now. heres some things to check. let the car warm up and get it pulsing. with the intake piping removed, plug the holes one by one (top and bottom) and see if the idle stops pulsing. the rpm will drop, dont worry about that. if the idle smooths out once plugging the top one, then clean out your iacv. heres a link on how to do that:http://www.g2ic.com/forums/sho...35534
if the idle smoothed out after plugging the bottom hole, then its your fitv, and theres an tutorial here on h-t somewhere on how to clean that out. now, ive found that this isnt a for sure thing. i plug my top hole and the pulsing goes away, but when i cleaned it, it got better, but didnt all together go away. other things that have helped mine was a new o2 sensor. also if you have air bubbles in your coolant it can cause it do to that (causes the water pump to cavitate). so also bleed the coolant system, or even flush it out (thats what i did). the other thing people are going to tell you is air leaks. im not sure how to check this, but its where i'm at right now, so if i get it fixed i'll let ya know.

 

whats fitv? oh and yeah the guy up above me i did replace the spark plugs.

 

today i cleaned the iacv and the rpm needle dropped faster when i let go of the gas which is better but i still have the stutter feeling and the car runs smooth then it skips a beat and i have a sudden stall. I noticed when i turn off the car i hear releasing of pressured air in the back of the manifold close to alt. Is this normal? Does anybody know if there vaccumm lines under the manifold close to the alternator.

Anyone? Its really getting to me and i dont want to take to honda dealership cause i took to a shop and they dont know what it is.

 

cmon guys!

what up with this hiccups! this happens only at idle when the car gets warmed up. just a reminder i did clean the iacv.

this i done:

changed spark plugs
changed distributor cap
valve adjustement
changed tps w/ throttle body
cleaned injectors with cleaner
sprayed t.b. and intake manifold with t.b. cleaner
fiddled with idle


ps. right now i hear whistling sound coming from the air intake and also that bad sputter and lag. anyone?