D15B7

What are the effects of having a tight or loose valve adjustment?
What's the best way to tell if you at TDC on each cylinder?

 

too tight and too loose you'll lose performance.... and if its also to lose you'll hear a loud ticking sound which is highly annoying....

A Little on the tighter side of your engines spec's will net you a little more performance due to the longer lift duration and some more upper RPM power....a little on the looser side will net you some more lower end power.... but im not 100% sure

to find TDC on the cylinder, there an up mark on your cam gear..... for your d-series i believe .... when the up mark is at 12 oclock is cylinder 1, 9 oclock is cylinder 3, 6 oclock is cylinder 4 and 3 oclock is cylinder 2.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cuong-nutz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are the effects of having a tight or loose valve adjustment?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Loose = Will not have as much lift on the valves, the valvetrain will be very noisy
Tight = Car will idle funny. If they are way too tight, the car won't start

 

I have some long, thin bamboo skewers that my wife uses for cooking stuff. I just drop one in ths spark plug hole and watch it as I turn the crank, it's easy to see where the piston tops out. Just make sure the stick is long enough, because you don't want to lose it in the combustion chamber.

 

I having problems trying to see if im at +/- TDC I don't know if that much or little variation will net me poor gas mileage.

By slight drag, that's when you can feel it catch a little and it's easy to stick the feeler gauge in and out?

What's the idle like with a tight adjustment?
a bouncy high idle or a steady high idle? does idle take a while to settle down to normal?

 

bump, still wondering

 

i just did a valve lash adjustment on my car 2 days ago... i set mine to the tighter sides of the specs.. and idle is perfect... no bouncing at all nice and smooth....and for the slight drag... just do it this way....if your setting the intake valves say to .007.....once .007 can fit in and .008 cant you have it set and use my earlier post to get to tdc for your cylinders

 

Hm.. guess it would help to have the .007 and .009 feeler gauges. I only had .008 and .010. But the same idea applies still.

I'm aware of the cam gear position. Just that i'm not sure if it's dead on TDC.

 

ok if you want to be reallly exact.... you have 2 TDC marks on your cam gear...... when the UP mark is at the 12 oclock position the 2 TDC marks should be parallel with your cylinder head....one should be at 3 oclock and the other at 9....and this will be the same again when you do cylinder 4 when the up mark is at the 6 oclock position.......

 

I work at Acura and do valve adjustments all the time. I was taught that the feeler gauge should have the same resistance in and out of the lifter as this.....
Take a magnet and slowly drag it across a metel object. The feeler blade should have the same feel as this. Also I like to have the feeler gauge inserted and move the rocker. You should have very little play and the feeler blade should barely move.
Good Luck.

 

Also pull off your distributor cap the rotor should be pointing at there respected cylinders while they are at TDC. Remember the engine must be cold.