Deemeetree

I'm going to do a valve adjustment soon and was wondering, how do I tell where TDC is for each cylinder. I know once I line up my cam sprocket, via rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise, with the 2 lines being parallel to the cylinder head surface, which means I'll be on cylinder #1, right? Now, once I start rotating the crankshaft 180* to get to the #3 cylinder, then #4, and at last, #2 cylinder, how do I know when it's at the specific cylinder. Yes, 180* is pretty much half a full rotation, but where would I see the marks to be specific? Where are the lines on the cam sprocket going to align with. If someone can give me some detailed directions on getting it aligned from the beginning, please let me know. Thanks.

BTW, this is on a D15B7.

I also wanted to know, TDC on the D15B7 is when the 2 lines are flat against the surface of the cylinder head or when the pointer is meeting the arrow on the lower part of the cam cover?

I already Searched and did find the thread that the adjustment was done on a CX motor. Did get some help from there, but I do need some more help. Preferably, detailed pictures.

JimmyAtlantis

If somebody doesn't beat me to it, I'll post up a couple pics from Helm's, but it won't be until this evening. What I want to know is how do you rotate the crank shaft? By hand...? And can't you do #1 & #3 and then #2 & #4 at the same time?

jolt-tsp

I just rotate it with the crank bolt. socket, two 1' extensions and a ratchet/breaker bar should let you roate the crank from outside the driver side fender.

To tell if it's at TDC or not, we stick the dipstick down the spark plug hole, while someone turns the crank. Piston will go up, hit the top and start going back down. Once you feel it start going back down, crank back a little to the top. I'm sure this isn't the best way to do it, but it works.

Deemeetree

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jolt-tsp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just rotate it with the crank bolt. socket, two 1' extensions and a ratchet/breaker bar should let you roate the crank from outside the driver side fender.

To tell if it's at TDC or not, we stick the dipstick down the spark plug hole, while someone turns the crank. Piston will go up, hit the top and start going back down. Once you feel it start going back down, crank back a little to the top. I'm sure this isn't the best way to do it, but it works.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see. Might sound like a decent way to do it, not the most accurate, but close enough. Have you had any complications after doing a valve adjustment this way?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRI94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If somebody doesn't beat me to it, I'll post up a couple pics from Helm's, but it won't be until this evening. What I want to know is how do you rotate the crank shaft? By hand...? And can't you do #1 & #3 and then #2 & #4 at the same time?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the Chilton's has it as TDC for # 1 (being that the cam sprocket lines are parallel to the head), then for every 180* it's going to be 1-3-4-2.

I also wanted to know, how I do I determine the cylinder #? From the distributor to the right (distributor to the cam sprocket), is it 4-3-2-1 or is it 1-2-3-4?

JimmyAtlantis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also wanted to know, how I do I determine the cylinder #? From the distributor to the right (distributor to the cam sprocket), is it 4-3-2-1 or is it 1-2-3-4?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Deemeetree

Yeah, I just found it in the Chilton's, 4-3-2-1. Thanks.

Now for the other questions, anyone want to chime in?

Sorry for the few questions needing detailed instructions (preferably pictures), but this is the 1st time I'm doing this and don't want to mess anything up. Also, trying not to be as n00bish with this subject. But we all have our first time doing something that we are "iffy" about. Thanks.

menkio

i've always turned it by hand, via socket/extension.. used a wood stick the ones you get a project store, micheals, walmart.. did all 4, ran it, then did it again and checked clearncess. Always worked.

Deemeetree

Thanks. Actually JRI94 helped me out with some detailed pictires from a service manual. I have all the information, thanks all.

jolt-tsp

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I see. Might sound like a decent way to do it, not the most accurate, but close enough. Have you had any complications after doing a valve adjustment this way?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, never had a problem. Of course I've only done it 3 times, so I might just be getting lucky.

Deemeetree

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jolt-tsp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nope, never had a problem. Of course I've only done it 3 times, so I might just be getting lucky. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahh. Well the manual has pictures of the cam sprocket each time it's turned 90* (180* crank) and where the "UP" mark needs to be and the other parallel lines. Detailed indeed.

SoloSol

Also make sure the car is at ambient temprature.. dont do this on a hot motor, let it cool first.

JimmyAtlantis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoloSol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also make sure the car is at ambient temprature.. dont do this on a hot motor, let it cool first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes...below 100 degrees F.

Deemeetree

Yeah, the manual states this also. Best time to adjust them is overnight cold.