i've already searched and all i got was peoples problems with there egr valve.

i remember a while back that there was a diy on blocking your egr valve or something like that i forgot and i was wondering if any1 remembers what that was about? did it increase your mpg or what was the reason for it? also i have about 98,000 miles on my 96 and i was wondering if i should clean it out. if so how would i go about doing so..?

 

On accords what you're thinking is probably cleaning the "EGR passageways".

To reduce NOx emissions on your smog check.
Also to improve engine performance out of 1st gear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 14aZnS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've already searched and all i got was peoples problems with there egr valve.

i remember a while back that there was a diy on blocking your egr valve or something like that i forgot and i was wondering if any1 remembers what that was about? did it increase your mpg or what was the reason for it? also i have about 98,000 miles on my 96 and i was wondering if i should clean it out. if so how would i go about doing so..? </TD></TR></TABLE>

It was a block off plate, in which they used the aluminum from a soda can and placed the egr valve back on top of it. I don't remember what they said about the fuel economy.

 

oh .. i wasnt sure what that was done for but thats what i was talking about blocking it off ... do you remember why they did it?

 

eny1 know what it was for?

 

they did it so they didnt have clogged egr ports and the check engine light coming on as well as misfires and rough running at part throttle from a stuck open egr valve.
blocking it off will NOT helop performance or milage at all.

 

oh ok thanx!... btw should i look into cleaning mine? im about to hit 98k miles

 

i jsut did one for a customer his got clogged at around 250k miles, and he drives like an old lady so the egr is open a LOT for him.

 

remove hold down bolts for fuel rail...
disconnect fuel injectors,..
under that should be like 4-5 more screws over a metal plate..
youll see 1 entrance hole from the egr that splits into 4 other ports that goes into ur intake mani...
the entrace port is the one you would block off (nickel sized hole) (a piece of old gasket works fine)and just reverse for install and youre set.

 

thnx... i gotta a haynes manual i hope its in there all of that sounds simpe bu then complicated... if i remove the fuel injecters is there any posabilitys of screwing them up?

 

there was a really old post that had this awesome link on it w/pics

http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf

let me know how it goes and if it helped your gas mileage, I'm thinking about doing this if I have the time and get uber bored. That and I'm a cheap *** and 30 mpg on the hwy isn't enough!

 

no its actually really easy,,, you dont have to take the injectors off the rail, you can just move it to the side and youll have enough clearance to get to the metal cover below it... just becareful when reinstalling the injectors back into the head the o rings could pinch and cause a leak so make sure the o rings are fitted properly before reinstalling.

 

whats over that cover part? it looks like theres something i need to remove first... i thought the egr looked differnt.. so those 4 holes are the ports? oh yea do i need to buy new gaskets? sorry for all the questions but just wanna make sure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 14aZnS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats over that cover part? it looks like theres something i need to remove first... i thought the egr looked differnt.. so those 4 holes are the ports? oh yea do i need to buy new gaskets? sorry for all the questions but just wanna make sure </TD></TR></TABLE>

the EGR itself is the small thing to the left hand side held down by 2 bolts (right behind distributor)

as for the gasket i just cleaned mine up really well and reused it,,, i never had a problem yet with it but it doesnt hurt to change it... but yea those 4 holes are the ports that needs cleaning... and the metal plate, see those carbon buildups all over? get those suckers cleaned also...

 

you get her done yet? I want to know how it went...

Also I ran SeaFoam through my intake a while back. Car is a 96 EX manual driven semi-hard around town and always gets warmed up to temp. w/about 120k miles. I'm getting about 32 on the hwy and 28-30 in town. You think it would be worth the time to check my EGR ports, she runs like a dream but I'll take all the gas mileage I can get? Shoot I've never seen gas prices this high, $2.33 the other day in Columbus, OH!!!

 

lol i know wat u mean.. havent gotten to it.. this weekend ill have time.. i need to change spark plugs so while im in there ill take a crack at it do i need any special tools to remove the rail and injecters? also whats the easyest way to do this?

 

when removing fuel rail and injectors should i worry about fuel spillage?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 14aZnS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol i know wat u mean.. havent gotten to it.. this weekend ill have time.. i need to change spark plugs so while im in there ill take a crack at it do i need any special tools to remove the rail and injecters? also whats the easyest way to do this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

remove 3 bolts holding the rail down,,,
unclip 2 black plastic clips on top...
remove 1 of the rubber hoses off the egr and place the whole thing aside...

you dont have to remove the injectors off the rail, you shuld have enough room just to rest it aside while you do the rest of the work...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phateless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when removing fuel rail and injectors should i worry about fuel spillage?</TD></TR></TABLE>

fuel spillage you have to worry about if you remove the injectors off of the fuel rail, if you do like i said and just rest the whole rail + injectors to the side, then they shouldnt spill at all...

 

got it done! man... they wor clogged bad. it was a pretty simple job thanx for all the help. my injectors came out with the rail and i cleaned those too they were pretty grimey. as for the ports all i did was use a few pipe cleaners and sum high pressure carbon cleaner. then started the car and revved it up just to kick out the rest of the carbon that fell in. thats pretty much it any1 have questions?

btw: my car has 96000 miles on it so im guessing if you havent doen it get to it if your around 100k.

 

dammit! i took it out to eat a smeeled fuel... so i checked under hood and there was a leak. one of my o rings broke it was damaged so i have to replace it. i went to all the autoparts no1 carrys it so i gotta go to honda 2mrw to get some from them. they guy at autozone said its pretty common i gues so if your looking to do this u might want to get some extra "fuel injector o-rings" from honda. the autoparts sayed i should use the honda ones becuase there specialy made for the pressure, and the compounds they are made of are a lot better than the generic pack of o rings they had. have to wait till 2mrw i guess....

 

yea, the o-ring thing always happens, if you read a few threads up top i mentioned it happens to alot of people about it pinching up and causing a leak... which o ring did you break? the one that fits into the engine? or the tiny one that goes to the rail?

 

the tiny one that goes into the rail... YEY! i went to honda bought 4 new ones replaced all my old ones and no more leaks! man those suckers are expensive for just a small amount of rubber. about 3 bucks a piece. eh i guess its worth it rather than buying a whole new injector