ok well i was doing my wire hiding and other things this weekend. took offf my intake mani in the process. cleaned it out. w/ seafoam as well as the crankcase.

well i managed to break part of the pcv valve assembly so i just replaced it as much as i could w/ the fittings and hose i had. seems like it workd.

put everything back toghether, start the car, idle is veryyy messed up and shoots soo much white smoke out of the exhaust then cel comes on and the idle jumps up and stays at 5k. i looked back and i did mess up on the vacuum lines, fixed that. still does it and still cel5>???

i think i fucked my car up, what do you think.

 

???

 

a new PCV is 2-3$ depending where you go.

just buy a new one, to eliminate it from your worries.

did you use a new intake manifold gasket or re use the old one, how much wire hiding did you do?

also you should let the car run even tho its at 5 k, when i seafoamed mine the idle was off and and it blew smoke for like 20 minutes until it came clean.

one more silly question, are you sure your vaccum lines are correct, and did you try to remove the chacoal canister or soemthing like that when you did your wire hiding?

i hope you find your issue, good luck.

 

vacuum lines are all right, i got a diagram and fixed them, charcoal canister is gone but i did that like a month ago and it was fine.
i cant run it right now for long cuz my neighbors get pissed off cuz my car is hella loud, especially at 5krpm.

i replaced the pcv valve already. just the cel5 i dont know about. i unplugged the map to see if i could get the idle down now it just idles irratically at like 2 then shoots up to 5 and throws the cel.

sooo i have no idea really. i really dont think i missed any hoses on my mani but i duno. i think i broke it, haha i always do this.

 

bleed the air out of your coolant, check your map sensor and the wiring (thats code 5 if you have stock engine/ecu) and then if that doesnt help clean your EACV.

 

i guess run continuity to all the wires going to the map sensor and the ecu.

make sure everything is going to where it should before you start to blame components.

fully bleed to coolant and make sure your tps is reading the correct voltage.

good luck, tracing wiring errors sucks. youll get it tho.

 

im pretty sure its a vacuum leak cuz i hear it when i drive it. but i cant find it. i havent looked very much yet but i think im just gona take off the mani again put a new gasket and just check to make sure all my hoses are right.

does anybody have a diagram of all the hoses on the mani not just the vacuum ones so i can make sure i did it right?

 

ahhh somebody help me this sucks! idle doesnt go below 4k. its hard to drive like that ! haha. everything looks right so i dont know what the problem is, except im still gettin the map code.

 

Changed your gasget? All hoses and sensors plugged in? I removed my intake manifold lately cuz of port and polish. And i can say, there was hell a lot of wires, sensors and hoses. :D

Check everything. Things cant go VERY wrong if you remove your intake manifold, so be patient. You cant broke it so much it would be impossible to fix.

 

if your throwing a code then thats your issue until you fix it.

heres a vacuum diagram:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1134419

 

well i read some stuff about how the fitv might be the problem, i plugged the hole in the inside of the tb and there was suction and it went to about normal idle (it was still cold). so i took off the fitv and tightend the screw thing in it but it didnt work. theres still suction in that hole.

sooo could i need a new fitv?

 

Or the FITV's gasget?

 

bah well i just bypassed the fitv didnt do anything. what is the top hole in the inside of the tb? and what is the big sensor thing on the top back of the mani. this hole is sucking air and when i plug it the idle goes down....

WHAT IS THIS??? my neighbor just came over and bitched me out cuz i woke her kid up, she said its illegal what im doing haha its 1oclock! damn i need to fix this

 

anybody else? i really need to fix this i gota drive to work and school

 

did you ever get the problem resolved?

 

no not yet. my dads friend is a honda technician so im gona drop it off at his house monday morning and hes going to fix it, or tell me whats wrong and i'll fix it. he'll probably fix it since my dad is paying for it haha.

but because of it idling so high, what little driving on it i have done its made the clutch wear out so now its slipping. great, just another problem to add to my list.

ill post back up when i found out what was wrong with it.

 

so pretty much you get to practice a launch at every stop sign...sweet. bought the right rpm too. i bet you still get better gas milege then a mustang ...anyway, i know with this wire moving thing people seem to cut wires and extend them. you might have crossed something up if you did this. maybe the tps wires or something. sensor could be bad who knows. say some wires are crossed or rubber is worn off both wires or melted they could have touched and shorted the sensor. kinda weird if you ask me. if you pulled up next to me id be sitting here like what? this guy wants a piece of the REX!? must suck if a cop is sitting there he's prolly thinking your trying to go at it. good thing is, you only have to work the clutch ..

 

wellp i dropped the rex off at the shop this afternoon. hopefully tomorrow ill get a call w/ the diagnosis. ill post again when i find out what was wrong so if anybody else has this problem and its not one of the ordinary fixes then its just another thing they can check for.

 

check engine idles at 4k rpm // found vacuum line to dashpot diaphragm was run from the a/c idler boost valve. the boost valve failed and caused constant vacuum to be applied to the dashpot holding the throttle open...

thats what they said was wrong w/ it. i didnt even know there was a "a/c idler boost valve". weired thing is, i didnt change any of the vacuum lines where they said they were messed up. oh well. its fixed. except im still throwing a code 2 and 3. i know 3 is for the map sensor, faulty or disconnected. but its connected.
and i guess 2 is o2 sensor since i dont have one.

 

AWESOME its doing it again. i guess ill have to take it back and get em to fix it for free or somethin.

 

get a new map sensor.... its throwing the code... i think i got one pm me

 

well my map is unplugged thats why i was getting the code 3 instead of 5. ill plug it up and see if i throw a 5. either way im still gonna end up taking it back to the shop becuase they didnt fix it.

unless having something unplugged in the dash area would cause it to **** up cuz i took out my dash, ac crap and the heater core.