Update #2 I ended up pulling the motor today............I took it to an aluminum welding shop and they welded it up pretty good. I will be putting the motor back in tomorrow. Thanks to everyone that helped! Also if someone else runs into this problem, I suggest you do it right the first time and get it welded. JB weld wont hold for ****.

Update: I ended up using JB weld to block off the hole.......it worked for about 5 days and I started to see oil seeping through again! So now it looks like I am forced to pull the engine out AGAIN! A question that I need answered is can I get this thing welded with everything still connected to it. Im just going to pull the motor and take it to a welding shop and see if they can weld it. If anyone can answer my question, I would appreciate it. Thanks


I broke off the oil pressure sensor housing and I want to know if I can get this thing welded shut with the engine still in the car. I just put the damn motor in and I dont feel like taking it out again. Thanks to anyone who helps!

Also if anyone in SoCal can accomplish this job, let me know. Thanks!

On to the pic:



Modified by EG6 SiR at 4:56 PM 4/28/2005


Modified by EG6 SiR at 10:36 PM 4/29/2005

 

sorry, i dont know the answer to ur question.. but that same dam thing happened to my friends car...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry, i dont know the answer to ur question.. but that same dam thing happened to my friends car... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, how did he fix it? I tried plugging it with a bolt but i broke off another piece. So now im forced to just weld it.

 

he's not on right now.. but ill ask him exactly how he did it later...

i know he put another bolt in it...and then put some kind of epoxy/sealer stuff around it... something like that... ill get u the details later though.

 

if youre unwilling to pull the motor, i think devcon f-2 epoxy and a coursely threaded fastener as a plug are your best bet. its gonna take an awful lot of brakleen so the oil better get drained out really good.

i would pull the motor and disasseble to weld solid and remachine, especially if it has valuable internals. that thing lets go at 8k and youll be spitting parts pretty shortly after.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if youre unwilling to pull the motor, i think devcon f-2 epoxy and a coursely threaded fastener as a plug are your best bet. its gonna take an awful lot of brakleen so the oil better get drained out really good.

i would pull the motor and disasseble to weld solid and remachine, especially if it has valuable internals. that thing lets go at 8k and youll be spitting parts pretty shortly after. </TD></TR></TABLE>

where can i get that epoxy at? Also what would happen if i get it welded with the motor in the car with all the internals.

 

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/...58718

responsible welders dont arc near fuel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/...58718

responsible welders dont arc near fuel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

cool thanks for the link!
Aside from the fuel, what other problems might occur to anything internally if I were to weld this thing up. I think I might be able to get someone to weld it, but if its going to mess my internals up, then I think ill pass. Let me know. Thanks

 

I would personally take 2 cans of brake parts cleaner ( the **** that ***** up the enviroment! That means its working!) and clean the area very well. I would then put a hose that would allow you to mount the sensor on the firewall. Search for oil pressure gauge in the racing forum and you will see. Then I would use JB Weld. Just make sure its very clean AND ALLOW IT TO SET PROPERLY! I would also go a bit overboard and glue a larger diameter than you need. It should be more than up to the job.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Want2race &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would personally take 2 cans of brake parts cleaner ( the **** that ***** up the enviroment! That means its working!) and clean the area very well. I would then put a hose that would allow you to mount the sensor on the firewall. Search for oil pressure gauge in the racing forum and you will see. Then I would use JB Weld. Just make sure its very clean AND ALLOW IT TO SET PROPERLY! I would also go a bit overboard and glue a larger diameter than you need. It should be more than up to the job. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I see what your saying but, the hose wont be able to go all the way around the housing beause its connected to the block. How would I go about putting the hose on there?

Also, to anyone who know; will there be any damage to my internals if I were to weld that hole closed? Will there be any arcing or anything that will damage the internals?

Thanks for all the helpful replies.

 

I've seen someone on HMT fix that with JB
Junkyardracer even fixed a small hole in his block with it (eraser size)
good luck

 

try using bolt extractor tools.

 

to do what? there is nothing to extract

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry, i dont know the answer to ur question.. but that same dam thing happened to my friends car... </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol that was me heheheh.........happened on my ls motor.
Anyways yes i did manage to "Temporarily" remedy the situation by just using a bolt to thread in there. I was lucky in that there were still a couple of threads for the bolt to 'hang-on' to. Then i cleaned the area and just used some jb-weld around it. Worked fine, didn't have any problems. Took it to a mechanic and had the oil pressure tested just to be safe..........two weeks later though i pulled the motor and swapped a B18C .

 

JB weld is your friend

 

i did the EXACT same thing on my b18a block.... heres what to do

Get a tap from the store for the thread pitch of the hole.... you have about another 5 CM of space you can tap out with the tap.

THEN... go to your local hardware store, and get a peice of male to male 3/8ths( i think) extension pipe made of steel. get one thats about 3" long. Also while you're there, but a female adaptor, and some JB weld.

When you have the parts, go home and tap the hole, screw in the 3/8ths extension pipe, put pipe tape around the other end, screw on the female adaptor, and JB weld around the base of the pipe on broken block.....

problem solved

 

Update

 

best is to Al weld it.. we've done it before.. but sucks that the engine has to come out... hehe!! good luck

 

dont use JB Weld. that **** is only good up to a certain temp. pull the motor, its not that much work. then pull your intake manifold off. take it to a welding shop and have them weld it for you. i wouldnt try it yourself unless you have at least gone to school. its cast aluminum so its not fun to weld. i would shave it flat and then have a plate the size of the hole welded over it, this way material isnt able to get inside the engine. also make sure whoever welds it doesnt allow it to get to hot otherwise you might burn something up inside the engine. tack and cool, tack and cool. as for welding it in the car, good luck finding someone to do it or someone with enough skill to try it. i know i wouldnt be welding around gas under a car.

 

JB weld is good up to 600 degF...as long as you let it set and clean and rough up the area it will work. The devcon will bond better to the metal, but its only rated to 250 degF...

 

Update #2 up. Thanks to everyone who helped