ok as you all know i have a 91 si hatchback with a perfect b16 swap...long story short-i have 1 o2 sensor in my header, its an old o2 sensor from my single cam, and its dirty as hell- with both o2 sensor wires wired together into it- sometimes it throws the o2 code, it usually only throws it once i hit 4th gear vtec- when iam daily driving it wont throw it, sometimes when i drive it hard it wont throw it at all, its only every once in a while

usually when it throws i just turn the car off and then turn it back on, but iam tired of seeing that damn light

so my question is- is it throwing the code because the o2 is old and dirty and it needs a new one? or is it throwing the code because i have 1 o2 sensor, anyone had this problem? how can i fix it? will the car run better or the same if i just unplug it? will it throw codes if i unplug it? someone give me some incite as to whats going on here......


oh yea also-when the o2 code throws does the car go into limp mode? or does vtec not work or something? when i ran at the track my first 2 runs were 14.9's with 94 mph traps, and on my last run i ran a 15.5 when my car threw that o2 code in 2nd gear going down the track....?? iam so puzzled

 

??

 

once in my old car, i noticed that vtec didnt' work when i was the cel was on from the 02 sensor....i noticed it only once or twice..

also, when i was running one sensor, i never threw a cel, so my guess is cuz you have a dirty sensor, but you should hook that second one up....what i did was took my header off and took it down to the local machine shop, they charged my $40 to weld in a new hole for another sensor and they car ran a million times better after that.

and if you unplug it, it will prob run better, i know it did in my car, but the cel will be on all the time, just after a couple minutes of driving, i would just recommend getting the 2nd sensor installed, you'll notice a big difference, not only in gas mileage, but how it runs also.

 

At WOT (Open Loop)I don't think the ecu even references the oxygen sensor, just gives the motor all it wants.

Get a new O2 at the least and if you want to run with one O2 sensor go with a heated 4-wire and when you splice c8 and c16 make it as close to the ecu as possible. I've been running mine this way for a couple years no cel but I've often wondered how much it effects perfromance. Don't get me wrong, motor runs strong as is but I don't like shortcutting Honda engineering.

http://coreyonline.tripod.com/o2mod.html


Modified by 4gCRX at 9:35 AM 3/10/2005


Modified by 4gCRX at 9:35 AM 3/10/2005

 

i'm running 1 o2 sensor, but all of my o2 sensor wires are running to it, instead of 2 o2's i have 1 o2 and it has the wireing from both o2's into it if you guys get what iam saying.......anyone else have any opinions?

 

Look in the FAQ on this board, on the first page the O2 dilemma is answered (it is still confusing), but there are diagrams on there. Hope that helps

 

thanks^

i have an aftermarket header...-type r header with 2.5 inch collector, this is such a pain in the ***, i was gonna convert to obd-1 down the line anyway, guess i might as well go ahead and do it in april, after i pay off school

 

I was debating over that same header, but decided to go with a 4-2-1 2 piece for the 90-91 LS teg, and I am going to add a second O2 bung, just like the hasport one at the collector.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was debating over that same header, but decided to go with a 4-2-1 2 piece for the 90-91 LS teg, and I am going to add a second O2 bung, just like the hasport one at the collector.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats cool


i was gonna convert to obd-1 after summer, but i want the car to run a little bit better so i guess i might as well go ahead and convert to obd-1 now....i was gonna do it so i could get hondata and get my all motor setup tuned a little better

 

Click the link on my post

 

I'll eventually convert after everything in mine is running perfect at OBD0 (which is why I bought a $150 header instead of $350+), when I do go OBD1 it will be with the ITR header. Keeping this car all motor (my past 2 SOHCs I ended up turboing)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4gCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Click the link on my post</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i read it, but i think iam gonna just go ahead and convert all the way to obd-1, i was gonna do it anyway, just later, but now i think iam gonna buy all the stuff and convert in april