Drag Racing your R
id be more interested in shifting fast rather than what rpm. its almost impossible to hit the same shift point every single time. whether 8400rpm is better than 8300rpm I dont think it matters.
FWIW, you could probably look at your dyno sheet and see where power is starting to drop off and try shifting at that point.
you are probably better off asking in the drag racing forum since most guys in here arent hardcore drag racers.
:shrugs:
FWIW, you could probably look at your dyno sheet and see where power is starting to drop off and try shifting at that point.
you are probably better off asking in the drag racing forum since most guys in here arent hardcore drag racers.
:shrugs:
^ is correct, for all you know your peak powR could be at 7800 and then it starts dropping. but thats just an example. a dyno would tell you. and perhaps some guys in the drag forum like ^ mentioned.
Keep it off of the rev limiter, but shift as high as possible. (indicated 8500/8600).
You're past peak power, but after you shift you'll be way under peak power. You essentially would want to shift at the point where your power is dropping off and the power in the next gear will be the same but on the way up. That would probably be 9000-9500 RPM or something, so just shift as high as you can.
You're past peak power, but after you shift you'll be way under peak power. You essentially would want to shift at the point where your power is dropping off and the power in the next gear will be the same but on the way up. That would probably be 9000-9500 RPM or something, so just shift as high as you can.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep it off of the rev limiter, but shift as high as possible. (indicated 8500/8600).
You're past peak power, but after you shift you'll be way under peak power. You essentially would want to shift at the point where your power is dropping off and the power in the next gear will be the same but on the way up. That would probably be 9000-9500 RPM or something, so just shift as high as you can.
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OK thanks everyone. The reason I'm asking is I just got a 14.7 and 15.0 in the quarter mile with AEM intake. My reaction time was .49 each time and my 60 foot was 2.3 and 2.5. I am very surprised. I could never get good traction and my car stuttered in 1st gear both times. I've got good tires, the car weighs 1530 lbs. My suspension and steering is shitty though and not tight at all.
You're past peak power, but after you shift you'll be way under peak power. You essentially would want to shift at the point where your power is dropping off and the power in the next gear will be the same but on the way up. That would probably be 9000-9500 RPM or something, so just shift as high as you can.
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OK thanks everyone. The reason I'm asking is I just got a 14.7 and 15.0 in the quarter mile with AEM intake. My reaction time was .49 each time and my 60 foot was 2.3 and 2.5. I am very surprised. I could never get good traction and my car stuttered in 1st gear both times. I've got good tires, the car weighs 1530 lbs. My suspension and steering is shitty though and not tight at all.
donr worry about your reaction time unless you are bracket racing. otherewise, worry about your 60ft time. 2.3 and 2.5 are pretty high. 2.1 - 2.3 would be better on a stock tire set up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put it on the dyno and see where it stops making power. depends on mods. I can tell you i shifted above 9k all the time</TD></TR></TABLE>
On stock valvetrain? Be cautious in stating the above, newBs will come in and read that and not understand your modifications and try it out for themselves and blow a motor. That's a rather large run on sentence, haha.
You shift at redline; not when your power falls off, not when VTEC engages, none of that...if you want to be fast you shift at the optimal point so you land at the meat of your powerband. On our cars, that is redline. Anything else is just slowing you down.
On stock valvetrain? Be cautious in stating the above, newBs will come in and read that and not understand your modifications and try it out for themselves and blow a motor. That's a rather large run on sentence, haha.
You shift at redline; not when your power falls off, not when VTEC engages, none of that...if you want to be fast you shift at the optimal point so you land at the meat of your powerband. On our cars, that is redline. Anything else is just slowing you down.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikestypeRR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try road racing your R and drag racing will never enter your mind agian.
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You mean an HPDE right.
And along those lines, I personally don't even look at the tach when I'm drivin. I only really notice or look for rpm and speed when reviewing tapes afterwards.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You mean an HPDE right.
And along those lines, I personally don't even look at the tach when I'm drivin. I only really notice or look for rpm and speed when reviewing tapes afterwards.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You mean an HPDE right.
And along those lines, I personally don't even look at the tach when I'm drivin. I only really notice or look for rpm and speed when reviewing tapes afterwards.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol i dont shift till i hear that rev limiteR yO ...
You mean an HPDE right.
And along those lines, I personally don't even look at the tach when I'm drivin. I only really notice or look for rpm and speed when reviewing tapes afterwards.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol i dont shift till i hear that rev limiteR yO ...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikestypeRR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol i dont shift till i hear that rev limiteR yO ...
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fo sho
</TD></TR></TABLE>fo sho
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC Visions »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the car weighs 1530 lbs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I assume you mean 2530?
I assume you mean 2530?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jetydosa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I assume you mean 2530?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I was thinking the same thing because 1530 is kinda lightweight.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing because 1530 is kinda lightweight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Klemgold »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
On stock valvetrain? Be cautious in stating the above, newBs will come in and read that and not understand your modifications and try it out for themselves and blow a motor. That's a rather large run on sentence, haha.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
YES %100 STOCK HEAD.
On stock valvetrain? Be cautious in stating the above, newBs will come in and read that and not understand your modifications and try it out for themselves and blow a motor. That's a rather large run on sentence, haha.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
YES %100 STOCK HEAD.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
YES %100 STOCK HEAD. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well if your tach is correct, that isnt' the smartest thing to do and eventually it would have caught up with you. But I can't see your tach being right...taking a trip to 9k usually invovles some piston to valve contact or something worse...
YES %100 STOCK HEAD. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well if your tach is correct, that isnt' the smartest thing to do and eventually it would have caught up with you. But I can't see your tach being right...taking a trip to 9k usually invovles some piston to valve contact or something worse...
no it doest.
Ive done it for 4 years almost. And I was logging on Hondata and an aftermarket tach, and Dynojets readouts. I think 9200 was the fartest i took it, but usually limited it to 9k, becuase any higher I knew was getting iffy.
Trust me it can be done.
Ive done it for 4 years almost. And I was logging on Hondata and an aftermarket tach, and Dynojets readouts. I think 9200 was the fartest i took it, but usually limited it to 9k, becuase any higher I knew was getting iffy.
Trust me it can be done.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Klemgold »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well if your tach is correct, that isnt' the smartest thing to do and eventually it would have caught up with you. But I can't see your tach being right...taking a trip to 9k usually invovles some piston to valve contact or something worse...</TD></TR></TABLE>
.....stock itr valvetrain is good to 9200 rpm. So shift there.
There are TONS of us that have been doing it for years.
Need more proof? Mugen ECU. Mugen valvesprings are repackaged oem honda itr ones.....
Well if your tach is correct, that isnt' the smartest thing to do and eventually it would have caught up with you. But I can't see your tach being right...taking a trip to 9k usually invovles some piston to valve contact or something worse...</TD></TR></TABLE>
.....stock itr valvetrain is good to 9200 rpm. So shift there.
There are TONS of us that have been doing it for years.
Need more proof? Mugen ECU. Mugen valvesprings are repackaged oem honda itr ones.....
Yea i definatly don't shift till about 9300 when I am at the track.... I don't know where my power starts to drop off right now though. Will be on the dyno soon.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea i definatly don't shift till about 9300 when I am at the track.... I don't know where my power starts to drop off right now though. Will be on the dyno soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're not stock!
And I'll keep shifting at redline...I don't have money for an engine build...and whether you admit it or not, that's not good for your engine...consider yourself lucky.
You're not stock!
And I'll keep shifting at redline...I don't have money for an engine build...and whether you admit it or not, that's not good for your engine...consider yourself lucky.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Klemgold »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're not stock!
And I'll keep shifting at redline...I don't have money for an engine build...and whether you admit it or not, that's not good for your engine...consider yourself lucky.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Racing isnt good for your engine in general. Ill consider myself lucky for 90000 times i took my car over redline for the past 4 year with no probs.
If its wasnt ok , my head would have given me probs years ago. That was the only thing on my car left stock becuase I knew it could handle it.
Trust me man . Ive been doing this for a long time.
Do what you feel comfortable with. Its your car.
Me I KNOW where things are starting to stress and figure out where i stop making power and go from there.
You're not stock!
And I'll keep shifting at redline...I don't have money for an engine build...and whether you admit it or not, that's not good for your engine...consider yourself lucky.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Racing isnt good for your engine in general. Ill consider myself lucky for 90000 times i took my car over redline for the past 4 year with no probs.
If its wasnt ok , my head would have given me probs years ago. That was the only thing on my car left stock becuase I knew it could handle it.
Trust me man . Ive been doing this for a long time.
Do what you feel comfortable with. Its your car.
Me I KNOW where things are starting to stress and figure out where i stop making power and go from there.
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