so about a week ago i went out to my car and the clutch pedal was about holf way down to the floor and the car wouldnt go into gear when i pressed it the rest of the way down. after a bunch of pumps it went into gear, and after i got the car moving and it was fine and acted normal.
i checked the clutch fluid and it was pretty low so i topped it off.
i then didnt drive the car for 3 days and today i went out and the pedal is about an inch from the floor, so as i pumped it about 40 times and it rose back up to normal and drove normal.
i checked the fluid again (with car still running) and it was still full.
whats the story? i'm new to hydraulic clutches.

 

You got a leak somewhere. Maybe around the clutch master, clutch line, slave?

 

maybe u got air in the system
bleed the cluth

 

could it have a leak if the clutch fill tank is still full?
i dont know much about hydraulic clutches, but from outside knowledge i would guess its air in the system.
how do you bleed the system?

 

same way u bleed ur brakes
pump, hold, pump, hold

 

yeah, it sounds like they need bled to me. Most likely you have a hole in the system though. Clutches usually just don't get air in the lines though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealth89hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could it have a leak if the clutch fill tank is still full?
i dont know much about hydraulic clutches, but from outside knowledge i would guess its air in the system.
how do you bleed the system?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need two people. There's a bleeder valve on the slave cylinder.

 

Or get a hand pump style.. Nice to have.

 

Well air in the system doen't explain why the fluid was low in the first place.

Get yourself under the dashboard on the drivers side. Use a flashlight to inspect the clutch pedal. You will see that a push-rod is bolted to the arm of the clutch pedal (this part should have some grease at the pivot point). That is the shaft of the clutch master cylinder. You can see the rubber cover of the clutch master cylinder sticking through the fire wall. Is the master cylinder all wet in that location? Is the clutch pedals arm all wet too. Is there any fluid leaking down the fire wall? If you said yes to any of those, you probably have a leaking clutch master cylinder. This is pretty common, and I have already replaced two of them (not on the same car). Get a new MC ($86 from HondaAutomotiveParts.com but you can get aftermarkrt ones for $40) and install it. It's super simple.

 

probably need to get a new clutch master cylinder, etc.

also check the clutch pedal return spring under the dash above the pedal. if the pedal doesn't come up right the return spring could be bad.

 

i had the same problem, first it was the master cylinder, i could see that i was leaking and replaced it, then about a month later the same think happend, i cheaked the master (still good) then i cheaked the slave cylinder. it was leaking, you can tell this by looking at it, or pulling the large rubber boot back. changed that and everyting is good. they were bother simple to change. sometimes a race style clutch (6 puck) can cause these to wear prematurely*

 

is the slave cylinder the one thats right on the front of the tranny?
and where is the connection to bleed the brankes? right there also?

 

1. Crack open the bleeder screw on the Slave Cylinder.

2. Press down on the clutch and hold it to the floor.

3. Have your friend close the bleeder screw.

4. Release the clutch pedal.

5. Crack the bleeder screw open.

6. Press the clutch pedal down.

7. Close bleeder screw.

Repeat if necessary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealth89hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the slave cylinder the one thats right on the front of the tranny?
and where is the connection to bleed the brankes? right there also?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the slave cylinder is on the front side of the transmission (#9 in this pic). The bleeder valve (#1) sticks off the slave cylinder, and has a little rubber cap (#2)covering it. Pull the rubber cap off, and use an 8mm box end wrench to open & close the bleeder (8mm for D series, I don't know others).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealth89hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the slave cylinder the one thats right on the front of the tranny?
and where is the connection to bleed the brankes? right there also?</TD></TR></TABLE>\

thanks guys. i'll get on this tomorrow.
i also just realized that i said 'brankes' up there. i have NO idea where i was going with that one. heh.

 

i had the same problem 1 of my lines broke on the inside. If u bleed it and its still happens check under the rubber boot and the 2 linesconnected 2 it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. Crack open the bleeder screw on the Slave Cylinder.

2. Press down on the clutch and hold it to the floor.

3. Have your friend close the bleeder screw.

4. Release the clutch pedal.

5. Crack the bleeder screw open.

6. Press the clutch pedal down.

7. Close bleeder screw.

Repeat if necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this procedure seems a bit wrong. The clutch pedal will not come back up by itself. After closing the bleeder bolt, you'll need to pull the clutch pedal out.