ok 2 weekend ago i put in a fully built ls swap in my rex. i am boosting it but i wanted to break in the engine before i put some pressure on it. i have knife edged crank, l.a. sleeves, custom block guard that had to machined down because of how thick my sleeves were, eagle rods, wiseco pistons, balenced blue printed, bored over to a 2.0, oringed the top of my block, copper headgasket, titanium retainers, dual valve springs with increased seat pressure of 30 psi, stainless steel valves, port and polish. Yes i understand that the whole engine is custom and i do expect some problems but DAMN, where does it stop. it all starts with the swap on friday. i pull the old engine out and clean the engine bay real good. then i drop the engine in and start hooking up the odds and ends. i then go home for the night. the next morning i finally get my header in the mail. i go to my shop and try to put it on and its a no go. it is a 4-1 header and i have to pull the whole motor out and take the exhausr studs out and use bolts to hold the header on. ok so now i try to drop the engine back in. no go. i have to use a cutting torch and take the lip off my cros member. ok so this whole process took about 12 beers and about 7 hours.(i know i was drinking slow but you cant get hammered while working on cars.) i then get everything hooked up and try to start the engine at 3 in the morning on sat. it wont turn over . i bought a used starter from (Bmkisbmx@aol.com) some random *** hole that im not going to mention. any ways the starter was bad. sunday i wake up bright and earily and try to find a parts store that has a starter in stock. i find one for roughly 150 new. ok i try to start it and it runs. only on cylinder 2 and 3 . i do some injector switching and i get 123 working. it is a bad injector. i then buy a new injector for 70 bucks at the parts store. i then keep throwing code 13 on my ecu. this code throws my ecu into limp mode and retards my timing and wont let me rev over 3500 rpm. i find out from a fellow h-t member that because my car is an hf i have to cut wires b-9 and b-11. great now that problem is fixed. so i still have a horrible studder in my car sometimes when i am driving it. also i have a surging idle. the studder was because someone spilled water down my plug hole and the idle surge was due to a leaky vaccume hose on some dodad on my intake. these problems took about 1 week to find out the root cause. so now i finally have a decently running car. i then order adjustable cam gears and put them on. i drive about 20 miles around town with no problem. i then go to my g/f house and stay the night. i wake up in the morning and plan on going to pull a part for a door that she broke a couple of weeks ago. i leave her house and go about 2 miles and my car quits running and i am throwing crank angle sensor. it ends up that my adjustable cam gears came loose and were flopping back and fourth. as you can read i have had a **** ton of problems and i just want for you guys to say a silent prayer for me that i dont have any other problems.

 

oh god. your luck is just as good as mine. shitty. this happened to me too like 3 years ago on my hatch. bad starter. injector after i built up motor for turbo i added later after breakin just like you.

GOOD LUCK, I send my best wishes and luck. You'll need it. So how low did you make the compression?

 

shitty luck. sorry to hear it. i hope my swap goes better than that.

 

i went 8.5:1 with the pistons but it might be lower than that because of the head gasket

 

i hope no one swap goes as bad as mine (except Bmkisbmx@aol.com)

 

that engine sounds mean..but umm the cross member only needs some big guns and about 10 minutes with a hammer..

 

it looks much better if you just cut a little bit off the lip. thats why i did it. i dont like swinging hammers at my car at a fast pace. it scares me. if you are haveing to work that hard to get something done you need a different tool. Just my opinion, but thanks for the suggestion

 

it is pretty mean. i havent wound her up yet, only to 5k, but if im climbing a bridge or going up hill at 5k it breaks em loose. and thats only 8.5:1 compression. i cant wait until im spoolin

 

if you do not like doing that..how did you get the b-series in?

 

funny. it does take some elaborite positioning of things. and you are correct about haveing to swing the hammer to get clearence for the alternator. but that is manditory and ther was noting that i could have done differently

 

dang, write better next time, but that sucks

 

funny i understand him perfectly...but you have to read all my posts to understand

 

damn.
keep at it man. don't let the ****** bad-luck fairy stop you from building what will be one hell of an engine.
i have had my share of bad luck, too, so i can understand your pain. it will all be worth it once you're boostin' real nice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhf19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok 2 weekend ago i put in a fully built ls swap in my rex. i am GOING to be boosting it but i wanted to break in the engine beforehand. I installed a knife edged crank, l.a. sleeves, custom block guard that had to machined down because of how thick my sleeves were. As well as eagle rods, wiseco pistons. The engine had been balanced and blue printed; bored over to a 2.0, oringed the top of my block, copper headgasket, titanium retainers, dual valve springs with increased seat pressure of 30 psi, stainless steel valves, port and polish.

Yes i understand that the whole engine is custom and i do expect some problems. But DAMN, where does it stop? it all started with the swap on friday. i pulled the old engine out and cleaned the engine bay real good. Next i dropped in the engine and started to hook up the odds and ends. i then went home for the night. the next morning i finally get my header in the mail. i go to my shop and try to put it on and it wont fit. it is a 4-1 header and i have to pull the whole motor out and take the exhaust studs out and use bolts to hold the header on.

ok so now i try to drop the engine back in. no go. i have to use a cutting torch and take the lip off my cross member. ok so this whole process took about 12 beers and about 7 hours.(i know i was drinking slow but you cant get hammered while working on cars.) i then get everything hooked up and try to start the engine at 3 in the morning on sat. it wont turn over . i bought a used starter from (Bmkisbmx@aol.com) some random *** hole that im not going to mention. any ways the starter was bad. sunday i wake up bright and earily and try to find a parts store that has a starter in stock. i find one for roughly 150 new. ok i try to start it and it runs. only on cylinder 2 and 3 . i do some injector switching and i get 123 working. it is a bad injector. i then buy a new injector for 70 bucks at the parts store. i then keep throwing code 13 on my ecu. this code throws my ecu into limp mode and retards my timing and wont let me rev over 3500 rpm. i find out from a fellow h-t member that because my car is an hf i have to cut wires b-9 and b-11. great now that problem is fixed. so i still have a horrible studder in my car sometimes when i am driving it. also i have a surging idle. the studder was because someone spilled water down my plug hole and the idle surge was due to a leaky vaccume hose on some dodad on my intake. these problems took about 1 week to find out the root cause. so now i finally have a decently running car. i then order adjustable cam gears and put them on. i drive about 20 miles around town with no problem. i then go to my g/f house and stay the night. i wake up in the morning and plan on going to pull a part for a door that she broke a couple of weeks ago. i leave her house and go about 2 miles and my car quits running and i am throwing crank angle sensor. it ends up that my adjustable cam gears came loose and were flopping back and fourth. as you can read i have had a **** ton of problems and i just want for you guys to say a silent prayer for me that i dont have any other problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok i gave up trying to fix this...

 

yeah man we all have our problems with swaps..
i had 2 broken axles
mount inserts went out
alternator died
started died
dist was squeeking
injector drive unit in ECU blew....
that is why i am NOT BOOSTING NOW
AND SWITCHING CHASSIS!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daidilus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah man we all have our problems with swaps..
i had 2 broken axles
mount inserts went out
alternator died
started died
dist was squeeking
injector drive unit in ECU blew....
that is why i am NOT BOOSTING NOW
AND SWITCHING CHASSIS!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, sometimes DIYs take a lot of work or you just got the worst luck 3v4.

 

if i believed in god i would pray for you but sence i dont i will just say good luck.

 

yeah they take a lot of work...but i fixed all of that and i am still driving it everyday...i think the most i was down was 3 days, then i put the PR4 in and got the PW0 fixed!!

 

yeh today i found out i'm still leaning out still. with walbro 190 and fpr at full psi. something is wrong with injectors. or the 3 bent primaries on my 4-1 is throwing off my o2. a/f and egt gauges. putting stock header on.

project short equal length turbo manfiold

half SS and mild steel mig welded ghettoness
parts:
mild steel straight, 45*, 90*
megan racing 4-1 using the 4-1 collector
b series header from 4-1
cost: Time