got '88 si ecu have question
I posted the NEED MORE RPM? thread yesterday. N E WAY I went last night and got an ecu out of an '88 crx si, and I was wanting to know if this will bring the rpm up to 7200 from 6500. I had heard that only '91 si's had the 7200 rev limit. The car I got it out of was holding water in the floor board, and the ecu had some water in it. I cleaned it up the best I could. I even went to Radio Shack and got some Precision Electronics Cleaner for $11 for 5.5 oz can. It is a zero residue type cleaner. That **** was expensive. The car has not had a battery on it since they brought it in (salvage yard), and so I was wondering if any one knows if it should last or not? I know water damage is never ending, but there was no power going to this ecu while it was wet. Nothing looks burned and there is no rust.
Just looking for advice. I have not hooked it up yet to see if it even works. I'm waiting for the cleaner to dry.
Just looking for advice. I have not hooked it up yet to see if it even works. I'm waiting for the cleaner to dry.
i would not haven gotten it if there is auctual water inside the cover,it shoudl be 1000x better because you were using a unchipped auto ecu before correct? the only thing left to do is plug it in and try it out.
Right, it was an auto ecu. I did not know until I had gotten home with it. The salvage yard I went to is 45min away. I pulled the covers off the ecu and wa-la moisture! I only payed $30 for it, well $41 if you count the cleaner.
The ECU might be ok.
They spray the board inside with a good conformal coating that protects the board from moisture. The only thing that takes that coating off is a solvent like acetone or rubbing alcohol. Some coatings come off with high heat from a soldering iron, but from my experiences (not many, but enough I think) with ECU's I am pretty sure Honda used the solvent type ONLY.
So, just open up the ECU and dry it out. Then, double check all the leads on the board components -including the pins on the connectors - and make sure none off them are rusting and you should be good to go!
They spray the board inside with a good conformal coating that protects the board from moisture. The only thing that takes that coating off is a solvent like acetone or rubbing alcohol. Some coatings come off with high heat from a soldering iron, but from my experiences (not many, but enough I think) with ECU's I am pretty sure Honda used the solvent type ONLY.
So, just open up the ECU and dry it out. Then, double check all the leads on the board components -including the pins on the connectors - and make sure none off them are rusting and you should be good to go!
I'm putting it back together now. I'm going to hook it up in a sec. I'll let you guys know how it goes. The main thing I'm worried about is it failing on me like say when I go to Virginia.
3 is MAP sensor
13 is BARO (barometer) pressure sensor.
ECU is powering up and 'working'.
A solid led light (no flashes) is bad ECU AFAIK.
13 is BARO (barometer) pressure sensor.
ECU is powering up and 'working'.
A solid led light (no flashes) is bad ECU AFAIK.
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the connections were a little corroded, but with a little help from 4drEF
I got it running, the only problem is that the ecu had a rev limit of 6500 also
going to get my refund tomorrow
does any one know if the 7500 rev limit was only on the '91?
I got it running, the only problem is that the ecu had a rev limit of 6500 also
going to get my refund tomorrow
does any one know if the 7500 rev limit was only on the '91?
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