On Wednesday, I will make a long trip to my mechanic and have my gauges hook up. They were just sitting on my A-pillar and posing like a rice gadgets.
For the anti-rice falme task force, here is the reason why I need gauges:

Oil/Water Temp gauge. According to Best Motoring's Sept and Oct' issue, ITR was the last place on the JDM sports car endurance race. The limits was set for 130 C for oil temp and 100 C for water. Both the NSX and ITR exceeded the limit for most laps....other turbos with intercoolers did very well. I plan on doing a full season of lapping events and the ability to monitor my engine oil temp will give me a peace of mind.

Oil Pressure -- We all know our cars burn oil upon redlines. I am preparing for the next season of road/autox. So this may be a good gadget as I can precisely add oil on the spot....yes, I am too lazy for a dipstick.

So here goes with my question. Everything is pretty much settled, but I am very worried about the oil pressure gauge. I've heard numerous stories of people's oil pressure sensor causing oil spills and engine damage due to our high rev engine's vibrations to loosen the adapters. I have found this site and would like to know if it really works and if anyone had this setup:
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/

If this is a good idea, what materials do I need to hand over to my mechanic and where can I buy them? Any other tips are welcomed. Since my oil pressure is a mechanical autometer gauge. My mechanic said that their oem kit is strong enough for the car's vibration...is it true? I doubt it because I know someone had oil spill with an autometer.

Then I have another Omori dual oil/water temp mechanical gauge. Not much worries here. Just want to ask will the oil temp sensor replace my OEM drain plug? If so, then I guess I'll pick up some oil and filters for him to change as well...

If there is anything important to be aware of or tips. Please tell me. I want to do it right the first time!

 

Being that your gauges are mechanical, you would have to run the feed lines into the cabin. Properly maintained, this could be fine on a track only car. But on a daily driver, I would not want to have to run any unnecessary oil/fuel/coolant lines into the cabin. If any of the lines burst or crack, you will have 100+ degree oil or coolant spraying all over the place in your car. Electronic gauges are much safer.

The article on TOO's site is a commonly suggested setup. Considering that your oil pressure gauge is mechanical, you have no electrical oil pressure sender to speak of. Thus you'd have to run a line off your feed anyway.

With the oil temp sensor, I suppose you can purchase fittings in order for it to replace your oil drain plug, but why not just tap into the pan itself?


[Modified by Piston Honda, 9:10 AM 1/15/2002]

 

If being safe is the issue. I won't mind to take off the mechanical oil pressure and get an electrical one...will it be lot more safer? How will the electrical ones be set up with? And yes, this is a daily driven car in a city full of bad roads.

As for tapping the oil pan for oil temp. Is it better this way? Any pros and cons? I do have a oe size fitting.

Please excuse my ignorance. I have no technical experiences with internal works.


[Modified by nEoMuGen, 9:24 AM 1/15/2002]

 

The electrical oil pressure gauge will be setup just as on TOO's site. You will need a 1/8 BSPT male fitting for the block. Then its your choice as to what type of hose and fittings you wish to pick. Stainless steel braided lines would be a better choice over normal rubber lines. You could then mount the oil pressure sender and tee fitting against the firewall and run the wiring into the cabin. All this, opposed to running the oil line into the cabin with the mechanical gauge.

 

I see....I always thought that Too's site features the Mechanical gauge.

So running a wire into the cabin is much safer than an oil line?

And where can be get one of those Stainless steel braided lines? I need to do my shopping tomorrow. Any specific sizing to look for other than 1/8 BSPT?

And finally....forgot to say: Thank you very much for all of your helps!

 

A wire won't burst open and spray hot fluids into your cabin. You can buy stainless steel braided lines from any local domestic power shop.

To be more specific with the parts:
(1) 1/8 BSPT (male) to 1/8 NPT (female)
(2) 1/8 NPT (male) to pipe fitting (2AN or 3AN)
(1) Stainless steel braided line with end fittings
(1) 1/8 NPT tee (female)
(1) 1/8 NPT (male) to 1/8 BSPT (female) [To plug stock sensor back into tee]

BSPT fittings may be hard to find your your area. You can contact Maryland Metrics and they should have all the fittings you need. If you are in a rush, you can skip the BSPT fittings and directly use the NPT fittings. They aren't exact, but some pipe thread paste will make a good seal. This is all that I can think of off the top of my head. It's late.

You are welcome.

 

Domestic powershops....hmm. Can Home Depot or R&S Strauss do the trick? Is there any famous franchaise domestic powershops?

 

Jeg's or Summit Racing (internet/mail order). I doubt Pep Boys would have what you need...

You may want to hit a Mustang board (www.corral.net, fr'instance) and ask if there are shops local to you.

 

Only fluid in the cabin would be oil.
Mechanical water and oil temp gauges do not route any fluids into the car.

I would recommend electrical temp gauges and mechanical pressure.

 

You meant the other way around?

 

no. i meant what i said

 

I am really worried about mechanial gauges spilling oil due to vibration. Roads in my town gives me really bumpy rides.

 

vibration?
only if its not installed correctly.
The reason I like oil pressure to be mechanical is because its a full sweep gauge.
The only full sweep electrical oil pressure is 2 5/8, from autometer anyway.

If you like the japanese gauges then get all electrical.

 

The sad part is, the gauges were already purchased 1/2 year ago. I was waiting for the right adpaters from Japan to ship over here, hence the delay.

They are a Mechanical Oil Pressure Autometer. Mechanical 2-in-1 Oil/Water Temp Omori. I was about to run out and get myself an electrical Autometer, 2" 1/16...I guess I'll wait see what you have to say in your replies.

Anyway, the mechanic I will take my car to is a Domestic car mechanicm notorious for swapping V8s in and out. I see lots of old muscle cars in his garage, and he's cool with imports and want to buy himself a S2000.

He's very good with gauge installation, I was recommended to him by a Japanese auto shop owner who races and attend automechanic school....should I ease my guards and just let him do the mechanical oil pressure gauge work?

Under what severe circumstances will a mechanical oil pressure break? And if it does, what damage will it cause? I don't know what full sweep is, all I want is to monitor my oil press and total dependable reliability.

This will be a busy car running street/autox/road next year.



[Modified by nEoMuGen, 10:45 PM 1/15/2002]

 

full sweep means it sweeps like 270degrees. electrical usually sweep 130 or so?

I have never seen one actually break. my oil pressure gauge is leaking but
its almost 5 years old. I hve broken numerous electrical gauges though.

 

leaking....hmm.

The electrical guages that you broke, are they oil pressure gauges?
Did you use this method?
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/

 

oil pressure yes.
i usd similar method except instead of the nylon line i used the steel bread with
no T since i dont need the stock sender.

I've used my mechanical gauge with 0 problems up until recently.
So now i'm just going to buy another autometer to replace it.
No big deal.

 

Interesting....so your saying that oil pressure Mechanical is more reliable than Electrical.

What cause the breakage of your elec. oil press gauge? And how long did it last? Was there any damage to the car?

I am really confused now. Most people dislike Mechanicals, ie:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=113657

Last question. If the mechanical line cracks or failed...what will be the consequences? I am using stock part Autometer kit for the oil. press, do you recommend other cables that's further more reinforced?

And I shouldn't have much of problems with mechanical oil/water temp right? Should I run the oil temp to the pan or the block?

Thank you so much for your time and help!

 

with my electrical gauges i would get spike over 100psi at times.
And the sender would just break at that point. or the gauge would break
no damage to the car of course.

If the line were to crack or break(which pretty much wont happen) then
you would get oil in the car.

mechanical temp gauges are real tough to work with because they have that
huge metal line that has to be routed thru the car all the way to the engine.
Real PAIN IN THE A$$ if you ask me.

Oil temp is best mounted in the pan