I have a 93 hatch with a d15b8 motor. CX I did the test today and came back with 155 160 165 165. The car runs well but there was sone oil on the outside of the spark plug boot on #2. What do you guys think.

 

Compression seems alright.

 

compression seems pretty good!

 

I was under the impression that a 10 and up difference was where you needed to check things out, you have 155, 160 165 165, there is a big difference in cylinder 1, and the way it drops half way in the 2nd one seems strange to me,

Yet again, Im not an expert, just trying to remember and seeing a pattern.

 

compression is good. oil in the spark plugs could come from a bad seal in the valve cover.

if you take the valve cover you'll notice each spark plug cylinder has its own o ring. replacing those should solve it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was under the impression that a 10 and up difference was where you needed to check things out</TD></TR></TABLE>

I read once you hit a 14 difference, you should get it checked out.

 

its 20 +-

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jeterkm02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">compression is good. oil in the spark plugs could come from a bad seal in the valve cover.

if you take the valve cover you'll notice each spark plug cylinder has its own o ring. replacing those should solve it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This man wins t3h pr1z3!!

 

I heard the acceptible difference was 10% so If I averaged 160 then the acceptible range should be 16 right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlacoy82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This man wins t3h pr1z3!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

you post *****.
&
im my own worst enemy

 

mine is worst.... 160,150,150,140

what causes these numbers anyways?

 

stress on the engine, beating on it.

Thats not too bad, most likely the rings are getting a little used. I wouldn't go through the trouble of replacing them. If you're worried about it buy a whole new engine.

 

how sure are you that it's just "getting a little used"?

 

There aren't that many ways to loose that much compression in only one cylinder and have oil in the cylinders.

Actually to get oil in the cylinders there are only a few ways.
1.rings are getting worn
2.valve seals are getting worn
3.spark plug seals are either non existent or worn

Too loose compression.
1.Rings worn
2.Needs a headgasket possibly
3.Mechanical Damage

I'm sure there probably a few other scenarios, but those are the most common.

I'm 98% sure my info is correct, I personally cannot diagnose your engine without being there. I'm just giving the most common problems.

How many miles does the engine have on it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civicb18b1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There aren't that many ways to loose that much compression in only one cylinder and have oil in the cylinders.

Actually to get oil in the cylinders there are only a few ways.
1.rings are getting worn
2.valve seals are getting worn
3.spark plug seals are either non existent or worn

Too loose compression.
1.Rings worn
2.Needs a headgasket possibly
3.Mechanical Damage

I'm sure there probably a few other scenarios, but those are the most common.

I'm 98% sure my info is correct, I personally cannot diagnose your engine without being there. I'm just giving the most common problems.

How many miles does the engine have on it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

is there a way to check the rings or the headgasket? i don't want to replace one if it's the other.

plus, a headgasket is easier and cheaper to replace than the rings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unjockable &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is there a way to check the rings or the headgasket? i don't want to replace one if it's the other.

plus, a headgasket is easier and cheaper to replace than the rings</TD></TR></TABLE>

leakdown test

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96MidoriHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">leakdown test </TD></TR></TABLE>

i actually did a leakdown test. i passed with good numbers. what does that mean?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unjockable &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i actually did a leakdown test. i passed with good numbers. what does that mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it means you're fine.
what numbers did you get anyways.

 

i don't remember the numbers but they were all even and on the green side. the shop i went to said it was fine. so what should i do with cylinder 4?

if it means i'm fine then why is the compression test off?

 

When they say you're fine, they mean that it actually is ok to drive, it will effect performance a little and probably worsen your gas mileage a bit.

It wouldn't be good to boost or anything like that but it's fine to drive. Like I said, you'd probably be better off with another longblock if it's a d-series, or even a good shortblock should be fine.

 

was the leakdown performed cold or warm? and was the compression test performed cold or warm?

 

leakdown performed cold. compression test performed both cold and warm.

 

hmm, so you dont know what the numbers on the leakdown test were? i would have it done again and get the actual results