Ok, i was gonna do a b20/vtec, and the tuner at the shop im gonna get it done at calls me and informs me of all the risks of b20vtec, which i already knew.
But then he tells me he can get me a great deal on a GSR swap.
but im not too sure about it, what do u guys think?

GSR w/ appx 60-70k miles
exedy racing clutch
new fuel regulator
skunk 2 stage 1 cams
Installed and tuned
$3400

The motor will go through complete leak down and compression tests before install,
does this sound like a better idea then doing a b20/vtec, stock block, stock head, for about the same price?
The only thing leaning me towards the GSR is reliability.

 

A full gs-r swap installed and tuned for $3400 is a good deal I think. And add those bolt-ons it seems like a killer deal. Just go for what you like.
If the b20 was done properly then it should be just as reliable as the gsr motor though. Except the whole lack of a pcv. I would definitely tap the block for one.

 

Well, it'd be reliable, but wouldnt i be risking the bearings with the high rev?
unless by saying 'done right' you mean resleaving?

 

That is a good price for the gsr.

How much were you quoted for the b20?

 

About the same price

stock b20block
stock gsrhead
exedy racing clutch
hondata p100

btw, its a USDM GSR, not JDM

 

bump

 

i would do b20-vtec. i dunno what hes talkin bout becuase there are plenty of b20-vtecs and ls-vtecs out there wit 90,000+ miles. as long as you maintain it it should be fine. and plus the b20 vtec would prolly outrun that gs-r jus in stock form like your gonna get. jus my .02

 

Do you have the money to rebuild if your B20 blows? Why dont you just build the GSR into a 2 Litre or do some engine work, its a great platform for power, either NA or FI. If reliability is a big issue, go with the GSR!

 

ok for 3400... both are really good deals. The GSR you are pretty much done. The b20 you will still need work done to it.

First off the stock b20 block makes no compression. Gotta swap out the pistons. Weisco makes a 11.3:1 piston that is streetable, and wont put a hole in your pocket. Get some buddy club 4's or Skunk2 stage 2's. If you get that you are going to need valve springs and retainers. A good header with a 2.5" collector is a MUST and exhaust to go along with it.


Reliability? If buying new rods wont fit in your budged send them to a machine shop and get them shot peened. I have heard of people's stock sleeves cracking, but me and my buddy have built a few (one over 2 years ago now) and they are still running strong. If you got the cash go ahead and sleeve it! Also change out the Girdle at the bottom of the block to a GSR/Typer or a function 7. You should send it to the machine shop and get a line bore to make sure everything is aligned perfect. Use OEM honda bearings, and some people suggest using head studs.. again I have never seen a problem using the old ones.

If you do get the b20 if its not the later model block make sure they tap in the knock sensor and put it in for you. Sometimes they dont do this.

 

I think im doin the geesr

Im droppin my car off tomorrow.