I am gathering info for my swap and want to do it right the 1st time. I am a big fan of Clutchmasters stage3 and currently run it in all 3 Hondas. I have been told a CM/Comptech combo is very nice but I want more input before I pull the trigger.
Last year after about 45 min of 10/10ths racing in my Prelude I started feeling slippage.....Thats alot of abuse that it took. I stand impressed.
Thanks in advance.

 

If your clutch is slipping after road racing, you need to work on j00r shifting skills.

 

in both of my H1 powerplants, i ran the stock flywheel (lightend a bit) with the oem stock honda clutch and pp.

many many many miles of track use (5 years total) and never any clutch problems. clutch still looked real good the last time i had the motor and tranny out.

you don't need to spend money in that area, unless you want to, for a road race app.

 

I am running a stage 3 Spec sprung clutch/pp and spec lightened FW in my h1 prepped b18c. I have to admit that the spring window corners stressed out and I fractured a spring window plate after about 5 hours of track time. The clutch/pp set up never slipped in those track sessions. Spec did the right thing, made me another one with "stress relieved" spring window corners (looks like a semi-circle drilled into each spring window corner) which is suppose to solve the problem. It shifted like butta (nice engagement) before it went south on that issue. In the process of putting the new and improved clutch back in. I know quite of few folks running spec in SCCA IT and many like it. FYI.

http://www.specclutch.com/specMain.html

Barry H.

 

Golly jee, that was a necessary reply!

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Golly jee, that was a necessary reply!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd wager money that it's true.

 

True or not.....Uneccesary!
I am asking about clutch/fw combos and next thing I know we're talking about my shifting......weird!
2 replies from you and not a lick of info in relation to the question......

 

Shameless plug:

I have a two barely used Clutchmaster stg3 clutches for sale:

https://honda-tech.com/zeropost...08382

----------

My preference has always been use err towards the soft side. Grabby clutches only server to transmit driveline shock to other components, such as driveshafts - causing unnecessary wear. The CM stg3 has a very nice feel to it. I'd personally either use something like it, or stock.


[edit] nevermind... I just realized you're asking about the prelude, not the swapped civic.

 

It pertains to j00r post since any advice anyone gave is rendered meaningless if you're overheating an upgraded clutch within 45minutes of driving.

With that said, a clutch material should be matched to the torque output of j00r engine. I chose to go with ACT SS/HD setup due to the fact that we do standing starts in HC. If I was doing rolling starts I would have stayed with stock. I am also running a fidanza flywheel which made for quicker rev-matches while downshifting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">True or not.....Uneccesary!
I am asking about clutch/fw combos and next thing I know we're talking about my shifting......weird!
2 replies from you and not a lick of info in relation to the question...... </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are doing something wrong if you are overheating the clutch. At 76k miles and almost 4,000 track miles last year alone, my stock clutch looks fine.

 

EXEDY!!!!

only way to go in my opinion

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EXEDY!!!!

only way to go in my opinion</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with Chad....that's what I am running in my H1 car this year.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxx44 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree with Chad....that's what I am running in my H1 car this year. </TD></TR></TABLE>

HU &gt; H1

 

Thanks again!

Agreed, I still have much to learn on the track. I just wanted to make sure that once my driving is more dialed in that I will be 100% happy with the clutch.
I would stay with stock, but I just can't see installing a fresh motor/trans with an OEM'r.

 

I don't use a clutch or a flywheel in my H1 car. It's lighter that way.

 

?????????????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With that said, a clutch material should be matched to the torque output of j00r engine. I chose to go with ACT SS/HD setup due to the fact that we do standing starts in HC. If I was doing rolling starts I would have stayed with stock. I am also running a fidanza flywheel which made for quicker rev-matches while downshifting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've got the same setup in my H2 ITR..

clint, don't take offense to criticisms here.. people aren't just being ********, they're just bluntly trying to help you..

 

fidanza flywheel... exedy organic clutch...

 

We used an Exedy organic stock replacement clucth on the H1 car all year. Put a fresh one in at the beginnnig of the season. Perfect, no problems ever. I'm willing to bet it wont even look worn out when we pull the tranny off soon...

 

Tilton twin disc....no problems at all...very light

 

An ACT 6-puck racing disc and HD pressure plate. I can't remember exactly which flywheel is car. It's aluminum and either ClutchMasters or Fidanza.

As far as burning up a clutch that fast, it could either be your driving or a defective set-up (we had a Vitek clutch set-up that only lasted about 20 minutes in the Prelude). Some companies (JUN for one), make the flywheels a little bit thicker for extra clamping force. This may work OK for drag racing but is BAD for road racing. It can prematurely wear out the pressure plate and lead to other problems.

The best bang for your buck is to use a stock clutch and lighten the stock flywheel. Stock parts work fine and you don't have to spend that much money. The stock clutch worked fine in the World Challenge Prelude and we only changed every season because we had the car apart.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tilton twin disc....no problems at all...very light</TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't that much smaller than stock and hence not HC legal or am I thinking of something else?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Isn't that much smaller than stock and hence not HC legal or am I thinking of something else?</TD></TR></TABLE>


you are correct in your thinking!!