im looking into replacing pistons and rods for some stronger ones. right now im running 290whp. I would like to upgrade internals and run around 350whp. I would like to get just 81mm pistons and stay stock bore. Im looking for input from people who have done this and how long the sleeves lasted and if they had to do it again would they have sleeved while the motor was dissassembled. Im trying to avoid sleeving but I want to kind of get an idea about how strong the stock sleeves are. It will be tuned with hondata.

 

good post since I to am looking into this also, though I can say stock sleeves will hold the power up to 450+ easily with good tunning. On with the people with actual experiance.

 

im assuming thats 450 at the crank right?

 

nah been plenty 450 whp, and actually even more. The inlinepro guys use to do it all the time and became very well known for making some fast and high hp honda's with the stock sleeves. Hopefully some real time people will post

 

i had a stock sleeve ls/vtec in my car that was daily driven at 386 whp for 50,000 miles. It went from nj to florida, back to nj, to az, to ca, back to az all over the place. It was then dynoed and made 511 at the wheels at slightly higher boost. overall tho, as long as you have a conservative tune and take care of your car (keep oil in it) you wont have any real problems

 

thanks for the input Geoff, would you now sleeve your block if you were to rebuild or not.

 

my car has made 475 for half a season and been through 30+ passes down to track... upgrading the turbo this winter and going for over 500whp... just make sure someone you trust is tuning the car... its a stock sleeve ls/vtec with forged internals... i maintain this car like crazy... my oil changes dont see 100miles..

 

I've done the whole sleeved block before, unless you just have money to spend or are building an all out monster, just stick with the stock sleeves and forged internals. If it blows then spend the big $$.

Tuning is so advanced now, as compared to where it was 4-5 years ago stock sleeves are holding up much better.

Kyle

 

Look here> https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1010357

 

how bout posting the sleeves? as an added insurance to stock sleeves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fullracegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car has made 475 for half a season and been through 30+ passes down to track... upgrading the turbo this winter and going for over 500whp... just make sure someone you trust is tuning the car... its a stock sleeve ls/vtec with forged internals... i maintain this car like crazy... my oil changes dont see 100miles..</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you mean 1000? or 100? LOL

 

My stock sleeved motor has been fine for 30K+ miles. Started out running 10 then 12 then 1 bar for a while.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueSi2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My stock sleeved motor has been fine for 30K+ miles. Started out running 10 then 12 then 1 bar for a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nOice!

 

i've done the forged internals, i haven't had any problems yet with sleeves and the engine has see 7-19ish pounds, but it really hasn't been up to par lately i'm having to get it re-ringed cause they didn't seat right and got in a wreck 3 days ago. So its not looking to good

 

how did you break in your engine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99gsr-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've done the forged internals, i haven't had any problems yet with sleeves and the engine has see 7-19ish pounds, but it really hasn't been up to par lately i'm having to get it re-ringed cause they didn't seat right and got in a wreck 3 days ago. So its not looking to good </TD></TR></TABLE>

Boost pressure = irrelevant

The motor can handle what, 1000+ psi of combustion pressure everytime the cylinder fires? Adding 20 PSI to that isn't really going to make a difference, it's horsepower that matters.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2K_TEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've done the whole sleeved block before, unless you just have money to spend or are building an all out monster, just stick with the stock sleeves and forged internals. If it blows then spend the big $$.

Tuning is so advanced now, as compared to where it was 4-5 years ago stock sleeves are holding up much better.

Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>

Put the extra money saved from sleeving into the valvetrain

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DefiantGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

do you mean 1000? or 100? LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope i mean 100miles!! no typo...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fullracegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nope i mean 100miles!! no typo...</TD></TR></TABLE>


hm im going out on a limb here but with a catch can, I dont see your motor benefitting from an oil change every 100 miles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donkiman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


hm im going out on a limb here but with a catch can, I dont see your motor benefitting from an oil change every 100 miles</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed. Unless you live in saudi arabia, drive only in sandstorms, and don't run an oil filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by @lbert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The motor can handle what, 1000+ psi of combustion pressure everytime the cylinder fires? Adding 20 PSI to that isn't really going to make a difference</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesnt work like that man lol

Normally the motor is fed atmospheric pressure (101 kpa, or 14.5 psi), so when you boost 20 psi, the motor actually sees atmospheric pressure + an addition 20 psi... the combustion temps and pressures go up dramatically.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donkiman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


hm im going out on a limb here but with a catch can, I dont see your motor benefitting from an oil change every 100 miles</TD></TR></TABLE>

It eliminates the chance of having something damaging in the oil for a long period of time. Granted 100 miles is kinda **** but if he doesn't mind spending the money it can't hurt

 

dude i have 30+ filters and oil is like 8 bucks for 5quarts... it may be excessive but anything to help the motor last longer i will say helps... oil is a major part of a turbo car... i dont daily drive my car and every mile is hard driven... so i change it everytime i come back from the track which is pretty much most of the time i drive it...