cleaning a bare block with soap, water, degreaser. Will th ewater make it rust?

 

ummmmmmm no...............inside the cyclinders yea.

 

if anything...i think it might oxidize(<sp?)or turn white? i dunno...bump for a good question!

 

Now think to yourself..........when it rains.......does the motor get wet? Yes? What is the engine full of? Coolant/water mix? I'd say the only place to keep dry/clean is the cylinder walls, other than that, you wouldnt be getting anything wet that wouldnt normally get wet anyways.

 

When you're done cleaning it, you have to spray the iron-based parts with WD-40 to prevent rust from starting. This includes the main caps, bolts, dowels, cylinder walls, etc.

I usually wipe the walls dry with a lint-free towel and then spray it down with a couple coats of WD-40 after washing the block a couple of times with hot, soapy water (and the occasional shot of lacquer thinner or brake parts cleaner to help with the internal passages). The first coat I wipe down with a blue shop towel and then second I leave on there.

Use scotch-brite and lacquer thinner on any mating surface but the decks to clean up any Hondabond residue or grease. Use brake parts cleaner as necessary to irrigate the area to re-evaluate the cleanliness before washing the entire block down.

Remove ALL of the plugs from the oil and coolant passages before doing any cleaning.

Get some brushes from goodson.com to help you clean the oil passages and cylinder bores.

 

well I guess I'm ok. I am cleaning it before I send it off to be resleeved.

 

Degreaser is a waste of time for cleaning heavy engine grime. Unless you spray it on a hot block (which is what most engine degreaser products recamend) followed by a pressure washer.

Go down to home depot or walmart and get a gallon can of Xylene from the paint section. Its just about strongest and cheapest non-polar solvent commercially avaible - i.e. it will solute grease and grime like that *snap*. I keep a gallon paint can of it around for parts cleaning, it works well. Its a little harsh on the hands and it smells (use it outside) but the smell dosnt follow you around and isnt as bad as mineral spirits or turpentine.

wd40 works alright - i find its a little runny and it seems to evaporate. I'd take a heat gun to the sleeves to make sure they're good and dry then slober on some plain clean engine oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you're done cleaning it, you have to spray the iron-based parts with WD-40 to prevent rust from starting. This includes the main caps, bolts, dowels, cylinder walls, etc.
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That's what I have always done. Reapply it once a week if you are storing the engine.


hondapreludejay,

Thanks for the xylene idea. I'll have to look into that

 

Not sure with all companies but the ones that I know of include a jet wash when they install the sleeves..