recently swapped my 01 p5m for a USDM p5M out of a 97 bb6. car runs fine, no CEL's, but the idle is surging from 1000-1500 when the car is warm.

any ideas? idle was fine before the swap.

car drives perfectly well otherwise.

thx.

 

what did you do about the immobilizer?

my first guess would be wiring changes on the IAC valve or FICV being different from 97 to 01

 

had it reprogrammed at the dealer for $73. found the ECU for $50. i guess i don't mind paying $123 to get rid of that damned light.

hmm, would the wiring differences be a result of OBD2a vs. OBD2b? or a more subtle wiring difference?

thx satan.

 

The immobilizer?? I recently swapped my ecu and when I checked my codes (my check engine light came on) it said that my immobilzer was throwing a code. What is the immobilizer and how did you get it reset?? thanks

 

the immobilizer is a security feature that basically requires a certain key with a particular chip in it to send a signal to the ECU to allow the car to start. the car will crank, but not turn over if the immobilizer isn't properly mated to ignition module and key. i don't know if they had immobilizers on 96's though, since i'm a 5th gen dood. which ECU did you get (from what year H22?)

to get it reset, you need to take your car and the master key that fits into the car's ignition (the fabled "RED" key) to the dealer to have them reprogram the immobilizer on the swapped ECU to recognize your RED key as the right key.

if you don't have that red key, b/c you never got one, or because you lost it or whatever, i'd suggest looking into another ECU since they'll rape you for a new ignition module etc etc without one.

however, verify that the code you're throwing is really an immobilizer code...anyway, more details about the swap would help me wrap my brain around the issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96lewd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The immobilizer?? I recently swapped my ecu and when I checked my codes (my check engine light came on) it said that my immobilzer was throwing a code. What is the immobilizer and how did you get it reset?? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Immobilizer can be re-programmed only if you have the RED LEARNING KEY, or take it to any local HONDA dealer (they use the PGM TESTER to do it).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you don't have that red key, b/c you never got one, or because you lost it or whatever, i'd suggest looking into another ECU since they'll rape you for a new ignition module etc etc without one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is not true! I bought my car used '99 Prelude and never got the Red Learning Key from dealer. I was an automatic, then I swapped into 5 speed. I bought some used 5 speed ECU off ebay. First, I took to some local Honda dealer, they told me without the Red Key, they couldn't do anything. They told me that if I want immobilizer, I have to buy the whole new Immobilizer kit cost $900. That was BS!!!! I took it to some other Honda dealer, they said they could use PGM Tester to do it withour Red Key, costed me $85. It worked very good since.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xbn83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is not true! I bought my car used '99 Prelude and never got the Red Learning Key from dealer. I was an automatic, then I swapped into 5 speed. I bought some used 5 speed ECU off ebay. First, I took to some local Honda dealer, they told me without the Red Key, they couldn't do anything. They told me that if I want immobilizer, I have to buy the whole new Immobilizer kit cost $900. That was BS!!!! I took it to some other Honda dealer, they said they could use PGM Tester to do it withour Red Key, costed me $85. It worked very good since.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice. yeah the dealer i went to said that not having the red key = $$$$. good to see that there's an non-stealership option out there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">had it reprogrammed at the dealer for $73. found the ECU for $50. i guess i don't mind paying $123 to get rid of that damned light.

hmm, would the wiring differences be a result of OBD2a vs. OBD2b? or a more subtle wiring difference?

thx satan.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm just thinking that it's something subtle...and most people don't run into it because they don't swap 5th gen ecus for other ones...

First thing I would do is take the 5th gen pinouts from the FAQ and compare the pins on both ecus, look at the sensors that ay affect idle and see if any have been relocated. My guess is that something like a ground that was in X is now in Y and you just need to figure out which one that is.