anyone know installation to cv joint replacement?!?!?
my left and right outer cv joints and boots just came in today for my 00 sibut theres just one slight problem.... i have no clue how to install them. what holds up the joints exactly and what do i need to remove to get at them? any and all help would be much appreciated. these parts came in just after pops and i installed my kyb agx's so we didnt even want to begin on this project. thanks again guys!!!
You just got the joints and boots right, not the WHOLE axle? That's a pain in the butt to install. I'm almost positive you're going to need special tools to tackle that kind of stuff. I could be wrong though.
ya just the boots the joints and the grease, my dad and i were lookin at it and were like how the hell do we even start?!?
To start just rip the old CV boot off. Cut it off or try and remove it the way it should be. ( don't know how that is though)
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Buying new Axles are always easier. But if need be to do this you have to take the whole axle out and then you can start.
Just disconnect the old boot and watch for the grease that will come out. Take appart the axle and be very carful not to loose anything. Put the boot on and then put the axle back in (it will take you a while because it can only go in ONE way and its a bitch to get it. When thats in fill the boot with grease and clamp it down.
Whenever i see a leaky boot i tell the person to buy a new axle.
Just disconnect the old boot and watch for the grease that will come out. Take appart the axle and be very carful not to loose anything. Put the boot on and then put the axle back in (it will take you a while because it can only go in ONE way and its a bitch to get it. When thats in fill the boot with grease and clamp it down.
Whenever i see a leaky boot i tell the person to buy a new axle.
Well this is taken from the Helms:
1. Pry up the locking tabs of the clamp and raise the end of the clamp.
2. Remove the inboard joint and rollers.
3. Remove the circlip and then remove the spider using a bearing remover.

- Mark the rollers and roller grooves during disassembly to ensure proper positioning during reassembly.
- Before diasassembly, mark the spider and driveshaft so they can be reinstalled in their original positions.
- The inboard joint must be removed to replace the boots.
- If the boot band is the welded type, cut off as shown:





Reassembly:
1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape to prevent damage to the boots and dynamic damper (exc. hatch and Sedan).
2. Install outboard boot, dynamic damper (if app.) and inboard boot to driveshaft. Remove tape.

3. Install stopper ring into driveshaft groove.
4. Install the spider on the driveshaft by aligning the marks on the spider and end of the driveshaft.
5. For the circlip onto the driveshaft groove.

6. Fit the rollers to the spider with their high shoulders facing outward.

- Reinstall the rollers in their original position on the spider.
- To prevent it from falling off, hold the driveshaft assembly so the spider and rollers point up.
7. Pack the inboard joint with the grease included.
- 4.2-4.6 oz. of grease.
8. Fit the inboard joint onto the driveshaft.

9. Pack the outboard joint with grease.

- 3.2-3.5 oz. of grease.
10. Adjust the length of the driveshafts to the figure below, then adjust the boots to halfway between full compression and extension.


- The ends of boots seat in the grooves of the driveshaft and joint.
11. Install new boot bands on the boot and bend both sets of locking tabs.

12. Lightly tap on the doubled over portions to reduce their height.
13. With dynamic damper:
- Position damper as shown below.
- Lighty tap on the doubled oer portions to reduce it's height.
- Install a ew dynamic damper band and bend both sets of locking tabs.

14. Install a new set ring on the driveshaft groove.

I know it's a bit ghetto, but it should work.
1. Pry up the locking tabs of the clamp and raise the end of the clamp.
2. Remove the inboard joint and rollers.
3. Remove the circlip and then remove the spider using a bearing remover.

- Mark the rollers and roller grooves during disassembly to ensure proper positioning during reassembly.
- Before diasassembly, mark the spider and driveshaft so they can be reinstalled in their original positions.
- The inboard joint must be removed to replace the boots.
- If the boot band is the welded type, cut off as shown:





Reassembly:
1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape to prevent damage to the boots and dynamic damper (exc. hatch and Sedan).
2. Install outboard boot, dynamic damper (if app.) and inboard boot to driveshaft. Remove tape.

3. Install stopper ring into driveshaft groove.
4. Install the spider on the driveshaft by aligning the marks on the spider and end of the driveshaft.
5. For the circlip onto the driveshaft groove.

6. Fit the rollers to the spider with their high shoulders facing outward.

- Reinstall the rollers in their original position on the spider.
- To prevent it from falling off, hold the driveshaft assembly so the spider and rollers point up.
7. Pack the inboard joint with the grease included.
- 4.2-4.6 oz. of grease.
8. Fit the inboard joint onto the driveshaft.

9. Pack the outboard joint with grease.

- 3.2-3.5 oz. of grease.
10. Adjust the length of the driveshafts to the figure below, then adjust the boots to halfway between full compression and extension.


- The ends of boots seat in the grooves of the driveshaft and joint.
11. Install new boot bands on the boot and bend both sets of locking tabs.

12. Lightly tap on the doubled over portions to reduce their height.
13. With dynamic damper:
- Position damper as shown below.
- Lighty tap on the doubled oer portions to reduce it's height.
- Install a ew dynamic damper band and bend both sets of locking tabs.

14. Install a new set ring on the driveshaft groove.

I know it's a bit ghetto, but it should work.
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