Electrical Issues
Ok first, I drive a 94 GSR that I love soooo much but it's been giving me some electrical issues....
The Problem
The climate control remains on when the ignition is off. My blower motor runs, mode control motor runs, and my climate control buttons can remain on (I turn them off when parked). But the blower motor remains on (even on the zero position) but you cant hear it... this drains my battery like nuts... It's gotten so bad I carry a jumper pack in my car at all times and is usually used 2-4times a day.
What I Have Tried
I know taking out the underhood-relay for the blower motor will cut the blower... but it's winter... and it's ohio.
I have tested the relay with a DMM and it's seems fine. I have tested it with another and it's good.
I have checked EVERY fuse and relay underdash and hood. Also all with a multimeter
Too add to confusion, I have an aftermarket alarm that I DID NOT install myself, thus I do not know for sure if it's connected properly.
And finally a couple weeks ago my abs fuse went(the one underdash)... and when I replaced it my climate control was NORMAL but after a couple of days it was back to the usual and the fuse is good.
I have helms, a Multimeter, ect... but I'm in a loss on where to start really... I'd really appreciate some advice here. I've tried honda and acura but they wont work on it b/c of the aftermarket alarm and gauges.
And on a side note,my blowr motor resistor only works on 3-4 not on 1-2.. doubt this is the problem...
The Problem
The climate control remains on when the ignition is off. My blower motor runs, mode control motor runs, and my climate control buttons can remain on (I turn them off when parked). But the blower motor remains on (even on the zero position) but you cant hear it... this drains my battery like nuts... It's gotten so bad I carry a jumper pack in my car at all times and is usually used 2-4times a day.
What I Have Tried
I know taking out the underhood-relay for the blower motor will cut the blower... but it's winter... and it's ohio.
I have tested the relay with a DMM and it's seems fine. I have tested it with another and it's good.
I have checked EVERY fuse and relay underdash and hood. Also all with a multimeter
Too add to confusion, I have an aftermarket alarm that I DID NOT install myself, thus I do not know for sure if it's connected properly.
And finally a couple weeks ago my abs fuse went(the one underdash)... and when I replaced it my climate control was NORMAL but after a couple of days it was back to the usual and the fuse is good.
I have helms, a Multimeter, ect... but I'm in a loss on where to start really... I'd really appreciate some advice here. I've tried honda and acura but they wont work on it b/c of the aftermarket alarm and gauges.
And on a side note,my blowr motor resistor only works on 3-4 not on 1-2.. doubt this is the problem...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECisSeXY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Too add to confusion, I have an aftermarket alarm that I DID NOT install myself, thus I do not know for sure if it's connected properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>There you go... They did something to cross-feed power over to your blower & stuff. Dig around the alarm connections & learn where they are hooked up. I'd probably copy the wiring drawings from the book & draw in the alarm wiring in order to understand it better.
It's funny that your fan resistor doesn't work on 1 & 2, yet you say the fan runs even when that switch is off???
I don't have the wiring drawing here to look at, but some of the controls are on the ground side of their loads. For example maybe they spliced into a wire at the fan switch, thinking it's battery power... but it draws thru the fan relay or something silly like that.
It's funny that your fan resistor doesn't work on 1 & 2, yet you say the fan runs even when that switch is off???
I don't have the wiring drawing here to look at, but some of the controls are on the ground side of their loads. For example maybe they spliced into a wire at the fan switch, thinking it's battery power... but it draws thru the fan relay or something silly like that.
damn man thought you had gotten this fiexed.
ill be over sometime today to take a look and help ya out.
if not today toamrow after work, if you will be around.
help this guy figure this **** out.
ill be over sometime today to take a look and help ya out.
if not today toamrow after work, if you will be around.
help this guy figure this **** out.
it IS NOT the alarm
I just took out the fuse and the blower was still able to run with the keys out.
So, that leaves the sub heater harness a&b
I just took out the fuse and the blower was still able to run with the keys out.
So, that leaves the sub heater harness a&b
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECisSeXY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it IS NOT the alarm
I just took out the fuse and the blower was still able to run with the keys out.</TD></TR></TABLE>That doesn't prove anything. The wiring could still be crossed up with the alarm install.
I just took out the fuse and the blower was still able to run with the keys out.</TD></TR></TABLE>That doesn't prove anything. The wiring could still be crossed up with the alarm install.
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well i have no idea how to wire an alarm... no idea
so me looking at it is almost pointless. especially with no schematics
i just pulled the heater harness and im goin through the wires... so far looks good
so me looking at it is almost pointless. especially with no schematics
i just pulled the heater harness and im goin through the wires... so far looks good
You said you have a Helm book - so you have schematics of what the wiring's SUPPOSED to be without the alarm.
Find all the alarm wires & disconnect them from the car's wiring. But each one you do you have to verify that the car's wiring is OK. For example if there's an ignition cutout, you'll have to restore that wiring back to what it's supposed to be.
Then you can decide whether to find some instructions for the alarm, so you can put it back in PROPERLY. (Or maybe they don't steal cars in WOOster...)
Find all the alarm wires & disconnect them from the car's wiring. But each one you do you have to verify that the car's wiring is OK. For example if there's an ignition cutout, you'll have to restore that wiring back to what it's supposed to be.
Then you can decide whether to find some instructions for the alarm, so you can put it back in PROPERLY. (Or maybe they don't steal cars in WOOster...)
IT sounds like a faulty heater fan switch......if you have the 94 integra helms manual, turn to page 21-9,21-10 and follow the flow chart, you'll have to remove your two center vents (it's one piece) and take it from there. Let us know how it goes,
also check your air speed control lever, and make sure it's not broken.
GL
also check your air speed control lever, and make sure it's not broken.
GL
<U>ALL HAIL SNAIL TUNING</U>
haha, ben just left my house and so far the problem is fixed... amazing.
It was the a/c compressor relay. it took a while to figure it out... but hopefully i now can drive around not worrying about my battery dying on me when i go somehwere
haha, ben just left my house and so far the problem is fixed... amazing.
It was the a/c compressor relay. it took a while to figure it out... but hopefully i now can drive around not worrying about my battery dying on me when i go somehwere
this **** was tricky.
started trouble shooting on fuse 13.
started at the top and worked my way down.
radiator fan still had power with the fues pulled, power mirrors still had power with the fuse pulled.
heater blower, and the other **** for the vents all had power.
finaly worked the way down to the a/c fan and clutch switch, pulled the relays, and it solved the problem.
well kindove.
fixed the blower motor problem. but you couldn't unlock the doors with the remote.
finaly messing with the locks. i fould that if we pulled the relays i had to lock the door with it open, and then close it, and it would somehow reset the alarm, and you could then lock, arm, unarm, and unlock the doors. damn electrical systems.
welp things to be working as they should, just have to keep an eye on the locks, and battery power, and the radiator fan, to make sure the coolent switch is working properly.
funny thing is I start chassie electrical systems on tuesday at stark state in the automotive certification program.
started trouble shooting on fuse 13.
started at the top and worked my way down.
radiator fan still had power with the fues pulled, power mirrors still had power with the fuse pulled.
heater blower, and the other **** for the vents all had power.
finaly worked the way down to the a/c fan and clutch switch, pulled the relays, and it solved the problem.
well kindove.
fixed the blower motor problem. but you couldn't unlock the doors with the remote.
finaly messing with the locks. i fould that if we pulled the relays i had to lock the door with it open, and then close it, and it would somehow reset the alarm, and you could then lock, arm, unarm, and unlock the doors. damn electrical systems.
welp things to be working as they should, just have to keep an eye on the locks, and battery power, and the radiator fan, to make sure the coolent switch is working properly.
funny thing is I start chassie electrical systems on tuesday at stark state in the automotive certification program.
Nice job! See, you just gotta be systematic & work your way thru that stuff.
Stark State, eh? I used to teach fluids, thermo, & heat transfer for a refresher course for PE license exams down there.
Stark State, eh? I used to teach fluids, thermo, & heat transfer for a refresher course for PE license exams down there.
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