The low down is that I have a 93 civic DX HB. I upgraded the rear drum brakes to discs off a 96 Integra by swapping out trailing arms, hubs, etc.

After doing this, I put new rotors and pads on up front and in the rear. Ever since, and I cannot figure this out, I am getting this uneven scraping sound when I spin both rear rotors with the wheel off or on or when driving.

Someone suggested the hubs are jacked or "out of round".

I still have the original trailing arms from the civic in the garage and was curious if the hubs would swap out so I could test this theory.

If anyone has any suggestions on this brake problem, I would love to hear it. I'm fresh out of ideas.

Thanks.

 

i think your someone is suggesting that your wheel bearings may be bad. when you drive, does it sound like an airplane?

if you take off the wheel and caliper brackets, if the hub has play, the hub should be replaced. more specifically, usually it's the inner race that's the culprit.

how does the scraping sound, sound like? like a grinding scraping noise? this may be a stupid question, but do you still have pad left on the inside? typically inside pads wear faster than outside pads.

and if the integra has abs, you cannot fit the a non-abs hub (civic) with an abs hub (integra)

 

The integra trailing arms came off a 96 GSR. I am not sure if it was ABS or not. I'm sort of teaching myself the workings of brakes as I go along here.

So if I find out the trailing arm from the Integra was NON-ABS, are you saying I could swap out the hubs??

No airplane sound. It's just a metal on metal scraping sound. But if I spin the wheel, the scraping sound is uneven, meaning as it spins, the scraping is heavier in some spots more than others, almost as if something is uneven. But not so much that the naked eye can see any wobbly action. This happens on both sides of the rear. I can't imagine both hubs would produce the same sound though.

The hub thing is only a theory. There is no play in the wheel when I try to rock it side to side and back and forth.

The rotors and pads are new so YES, there is plenty of pad.

 

all 96 gsr's came with abs. it won't work.

edit - also, you can't find out if there is play or not by rocking the wheel. the caliper bracket will not move much. i know this from experience as i had to replace a wheel bearing before.

re-edit - reading your statement, the sound of metal to metal contact and sliding is normal. mine does that all the time. unless it's real real bad grinding noise.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all stock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">re-edit - reading your statement, the sound of metal to metal contact and sliding is normal. mine does that all the time. unless it's real real bad grinding noise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think so man. That doesn't sound right to say that the sound of metal scraping is normal. Never had this problem before and I can't imagine everyone riding around with an Integra disc swap in the rear is constantly driving around turning the radio up only to block out the annoying scraping sound coming from the pads touching the rotors.

But, thanks for answering the hub question.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all stock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all 96 gsr's came with abs. it won't work.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is the only difference the ABS ring, or is there some difference in the hub offset for drums vs. discs?

 

bump for a good question from my man 94eg

 

Jeff,

If nobody can answere this, just go to honda & pick up a new hub nut or 2 (#10 in the photo). They only cost $1.38 & you must replace them everytime you remove them. Keep in mind It will require a breaker bar + mabey a pipe to get these nuts off. Then 135 lbs/ft of torque to reinstall...



Then go rent a puller like this (shown below) from autozone (or wherever) to remove the hub units on your disc & your drum trailing arms. Then compare them & see if they will swap over.




The question, however, still stands:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Is the only difference (in the drum & disc hubs) the ABS ring, or is there some difference in the hub offset for drums vs. discs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Trailing arms ARE interchangeable. If you are simply asking if you can swap a disc assembly to a different trailing arm without any problems, then yes it is possible. This is how I do all of my rear disc conversions.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=426445

 

if the noise is that loud, check if your dust shield may be rubbing on the rotor. race pads make a scraping noise if they aren't warmed up yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMH22HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Trailing arms ARE interchangeable. If you are simply asking if you can swap a disc assembly to a different trailing arm without any problems, then yes it is possible. This is how I do all of my rear disc conversions.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=426445</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks man. This is a definate possibility for me.

How long do you think it would take to to change one of these over???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all stock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the noise is that loud, check if your dust shield may be rubbing on the rotor. race pads make a scraping noise if they aren't warmed up yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, but it is neither of these. The noise still occurs if the dust shields are on or not. The noise only stops when I take the pads out. I also put in the old pads and it still makes the noise.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMH22HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Trailing arms ARE interchangeable. If you are simply asking if you can swap a disc assembly to a different trailing arm without any problems, then yes it is possible. This is how I do all of my rear disc conversions.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=426445</TD></TR></TABLE>

Jeff, in order to swap the discs over, you need to bring the whole spindle. That includes the part the caliper mounts to (which is the same part that the hub/bearing unit mounts to) & the disc hub/bearing unit. I think if you did this, you would still have the exact same problem because all the mounts & spinning parts would be the same.

 

Good point Sean. I was hoping to avoid the process anyway cause that would mean another alignment.

I am going to drive the car to work tomorrow for the first time. I drove the car around tonight trying to 'bed' the pads in some more because I got all of the air out of the caliper guide pins, swapped the rotors around and the pads also.

And I actually think the noise is now down to one disc now, the rear right. It is just odd that the noise will come and go. Sometimes, it is as quiet as can be, and the next it sounds awful.

And now I am not so sure that it gets worse when I corner to the left. I may be halucinating about that.

After most brake swaps, is there normally a period of time where the new rotors and pads are getting *worn* in?? I was thinking if I drove it around some, the noise might just magically vanish if this was the case.

But I think I may just be wishing here.

Still stumped....

 

I understand about the noise "halucinations". A lot of things can affect your perception (especially hearing), even lateral accelerataion. I wish I had more suggestions for you. I would probably drive the thing around too & see what happens after a day or two. If it's down to one wheel, then hopefully it's just a noisy breaking period.

If you don't "Bed" the pads in by slightly overheating them (the way I described befor), then the answer to your question is "yes, there is a wear in period".

Ooooh, I'm getting another idea (**sniff sniff** Whats that SMELL ?): If your rotors are new (I can't remember off hand), take them back & tell them they are "out of round" & cause shaking in the rear end of the car. If the rotors have been droped durring packaging or shipping, they can be "out of spec". This could also cause your scraping problem.

It's worth a try.

 

So, I WAS going to drive the car this morning, but I walked into the garage and found a strip of wheel weights laying on the floor. I didn't have time to see which wheel they fell off of and I didn't want to drive it long distance and have a problem with the wheel being out of balance.

I dont know dude, I am getting the impression my car likes hanging out in the garage and doesn't want to leave.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jefe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know dude, I am getting the impression my car likes hanging out in the garage and doesn't want to leave.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL...