i found this to be interesting, i did a search specifically for transmission swaps for this car and really the info is hard to source.

you guys are awsome at this, ecspecially the guys that know this car,

here is the deal: my transmission's housing is cracked, its not leaking fluid . . yet. but it needs to be replaced, no ghetto welds, a nice swap.

okay so the info i seek is this: for the ek, Si transmission should cost "about" what? taking my tranny and putting in the same should cost what?

OR!

well hey why not get silly? why not a 'better' tranny.

in my search i found alot of people opted for the GSR tranny, but there were to many pros and cons that did not make sense

why is it not good?
is the gsr tranny really worth it?
power loss and gains?

so to the guys that drive this lil gem, should i just get another Si tranny or get me something else? can anone tell me about what the cost would be just for the tranny?

what options for this car specifically are there?

 

Before I respond to your question, let me ask you another. How is the transmission housing cracked and it's not leaking? They have casting marks all over them and may appear cracked, but if it's not leaking, I doubt that it is indeed cracked.

On to what tranmission could be "better". You have a very short transmission as it is. You need this to make the B16 motor, which is essentially torqueless driveable. The GSR transmission is a bit longer (better suited for the increased displacement of the B18 motors). The Integra Type R transmission would be the only "upgrade" for your motor in my opinion. It is shorter than what you have now (I *think*), and you can get them in 2 different setups. One (the newer or JDM version or something) has an even shorter final drive (essentially tighter gear spacing) than is in your SI transmission. It also has a LSD (limited slip differential).

I really would like to see somebody come in and tell me what the differences are from year to year in a Hype R transmission as well.

 

I'm not really sure what b-series tranny's go for since I am a d-series guy, but I would just stick with your b16 tranny since it already has the shortest gearing (best for acceleration). I'm sure somebody has a blown b16 tranny they don't want anymore, I don't see why you couldn't just swap housings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Integra Type R transmission would be the only "upgrade" for your motor in my opinion. It is shorter than what you have now (I *think*), and you can get them in 2 different setups. One (the newer or JDM version or something) has an even shorter final drive (essentially tighter gear spacing) than is in your SI transmission. It also has a LSD (limited slip differential).

I really would like to see somebody come in and tell me what the differences are from year to year in a Hype R transmission as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the usdm itr tranny has 4.4 final drive and the same gearing as the b16 but with lsd. as also does the ctr tranny.

jdm itr trans(not sure what year) has 4.7 final drive but also has gsr 4th and 5th gears.

 

USDM, JDM 96 Spec ITR, & CTR Tranny
1st ... 3.230
2nd ... 2.105
3rd ... 1.458
4th ... 1.107
5th ... 0.848
Final Drive ... 4.4
Equipped with LSD

JDM 98 Spec ITR Tranny
1st ... 3.230
2nd ... 2.105
3rd ... 1.458
4th ... 1.034
5th ... 0.787
Final Drive ... 4.7
Equipped with LSD

USDM GSR Tranny
1st ... 3.230
2nd ... 1.900
3rd ... 1.360
4th ... 1.034
5th ... 0.787
Final Drive ... 4.4
JDM SiR-G optional with LSD

The B16A tranny has the same ratios as the USDM ITR, JDM 96 Spec ITR, and CTR minus the LSD. The JDM 98 Spec ITR tranny has the same 1st, 2nd, & 3rd gears as the B16A but with a GSR 4th & 5th with LSD.

 

good info guys

as to the first question, i dont know i did not see a crack

i am in no way a mechanic and when i got my oil changed at a jiffy lube the guy said that my tranny cassing was cracked but my tranny fluid was full

i did not think it was leaking either as i do not leave any spots on the ground where ever i park

however my check engine light came on after a lil racing at the track, but it comes on and off alot for that evap code

the gears feel fine, and so far shifting is not a problem, i just know if i goto the dealership (i dont trust local chops) that i will get ripped off, so i asked my question to get an idea of the cost

my buddy told me about $300 for the tranny maybe 2 hours to put it in
full swap should be less than $500

if it is in fact cracked (because i dont wana trust the guy with no teeth that changed my oil) what are the waring signs of failure?

 

If it's not leaking, I doubt it's cracked. Get under the car and take a look at it.

PS. The dealership is going to charge you for a lot more hours of labor than 2. Hell I can rip a tranny off in no time and it takes me 2 at least. The dealership is going to charge you at least 4 off and 4 back on plus the cost of a new transmission (which will be considerably more than 300 as well).

 

what do i look for?

 

Just look for any cracks! You will be able to tell if it is indeed cracked. I would say if its not leaking then dont change it. Take a rag under there with you and wipe away any dirt and look, like someone previous stated there are casting marks that may look like a crack but it isnt.

If it were me I wouldnt even bother to look, if you dont see fluid leaking and the damn thing isnt clankin around then its probably not cracked. Go back to jiffy lube and tell homeboy to STFU!!!

Jim

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just look for any cracks! You will be able to tell if it is indeed cracked. I would say if its not leaking then dont change it. Take a rag under there with you and wipe away any dirt and look, like someone previous stated there are casting marks that may look like a crack but it isnt.

If it were me I wouldnt even bother to look, if you dont see fluid leaking and the damn thing isnt clankin around then its probably not cracked. Go back to jiffy lube and tell homeboy to STFU!!!

Jim </TD></TR></TABLE>

HAHAHA! das what i am talking about!

ya there is no fluid spots when i drive, asn she shifts dang good too

i hope anyone else that does a search will be able to use this as good info

i dont think i want a ITR tranny, unless i do a swap, which is what i want anyway (the K20 is too expensive)

anyway thank you guys!

 

Glad I could be of assistance!

Jim

 

I wouldn't trust the judgement of a iffy lube "mechanic". I mean really, does it even take a mechanic to change oil???

If you are worried about it, take it to an independant Honda specialist shop for an opinion. They are better and cheaper than a dealership.

Just to take out the tranny and put another in, you are looking at probably $350 in labor. My buddy, who is a Honda mechanic for an independant shop, has had my tranny out twice, and can do a clutch change in 2.5 hours.

For a used tranny, I wouldn't think you could find one for under $500, and who knows how the synchros and gears are.

 

if it's not leaking oil who cares.

pull that off and throw a kaaz lsd and 4.9 final drive in there and you will have a very sweet tranny.

swapping a gsr or itr tranny would be a waste of money since you already have a good one.

 

Quaife LSD...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwn7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it's not leaking oil who cares.

pull that off and throw a kaaz lsd and 4.9 final drive in there and you will have a very sweet tranny.

swapping a gsr or itr tranny would be a waste of money since you already have a good one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

where would i find that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dj_BUDDAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

where would i find that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats not the question, its how much??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats not the question, its how much??</TD></TR></TABLE>

okay where and how much?

*lol*

look i just want a transmission that is gonna handle the 250 hp planned for the car. . . eventually . .sometime . . next . . decade

 

*bump*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dj_BUDDAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just know if i goto the dealership (i dont trust local chops) that i will get ripped off, so i asked my question to get an idea of the cost

my buddy told me about $300 for the tranny maybe 2 hours to put it in
full swap should be less than $500</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pfft, try more like $1000-1200 including the trans. And have fun looking for an affordable used hydraulic-clutch B16A transmission in 100% working order . . . odds are you'll have to have one shipped to you, unless you live in an area with a large Honda/Acura scene.

Look for the crack yourself and see if it is anything major. Odds are it isn't, since the trans is holding all of its fluid.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dj_BUDDAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look i just want a transmission that is gonna handle the 250 hp planned for the car. . . eventually . .sometime . . next . . decade</TD></TR></TABLE>
A stock B16A transmission will have no problem "handling" the power. You may want to consider an LSD though so you can efficiently get the power to the ground . . .

 

If my tranny case was cracked, but otherwise functioning, I would probably look for a cheap tranny with stripped gears or something to re-use the housing from.

-a

 

okay here is a good question for a noob like me, can i expect the ITR tranny to be LSD? i really am going after a full ITR swap.

that is draet advise though thank you, also i like the idea of finding a junked housing and swapping the inards

 

Manual transmissions can handle a good deal amount of power. What you need to get is LSD to get better traction for the extra power you want to make. Another good thing to get, especially when having more power, is a better clutch/flywheel. With a decent clutch/flywheel and LSD, it WILL hold a great deal of power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dj_BUDDAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay here is a good question for a noob like me, can i expect the ITR tranny to be LSD? i really am going after a full ITR swap.

that is draet advise though thank you, also i like the idea of finding a junked housing and swapping the inards</TD></TR></TABLE>

Every ITR has LSD.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Every ITR has LSD.</TD></TR></TABLE>

really.......

&lt;--- who is J/K of course.