This is for my 94 del sol si, d16z6, p28 (i believe) ecu. I've recently bought a low cost vtec controller (off ebay), and am looking at its directions, but they're Japanese -> Engrish translation. Basically I have two questions: The two main wires I need are the vtec sol and RPM wire, correct? Which wires are these at my ECU...i'm pretty sure the Vtec is a4, but i'm not too sure on the rpm wire.

Also, after scouring the internet for a while trying to find this other info, I've seen some people say that the vtec controllers arent worth it if they just change your hi-cam engage point, due to the fact that your ecu is still giving you a air/fuel mixture for lo-cam. Is this true? If it is, is there any recomendations for engage points, or simply leave it and throw the damn thing out?

 

Out of curiousity too, is it ok to bump threads?

 

eww.. i shuttered at cheap ebay vtec controller.. umm well i donm't know exactly how you would hook that up bro, but i dunno.. i would junk it if it was me actualy. Get a apex'i v-afc.. something a little more footprinted.

 

Sell it on ebay.

 

Look at pages 16 and 17 of the V-AFC Manual...heres a link...it's near the bottom of the list.

http://www.apexi-usa.com/documentation.asp

 

Thanks for the link. I'd really like to be able to make the best of what i have (cant really afford a whole lot of stuff), so, for example, if i change the engage point to 4800, am i going to be able to get a performance increase from 4800 to the normal engage time? (6000 i think)

 

If you set it too low you may not even have enough oil pressure to engage the second set of lobes.

 

i have heard the same things that outrun is saying

 

interesting...i saw a mugen chip on ebay and he stated that it kicked in vtec at 4800, so i figured, why not. I'm just wandering now, if simply engaging hi-cam at 4800 will give me any performance increase.

 

You'll need to get some serious dyno time to tune the VTEC controller.

 

well i have a g tech pro...not really the best dyno, but it can give me some info. Dyno around here is $50 a pop, and i cant afford that.

 

The link is for the the ECU pinouts...nothing more.

Dyno time is really the only way to "fine" tune the crossover point but you should be able to get somewhat close on the street. When my car was on the dyno you could tell when the crossover point was getting optimal by the sound the car was making. Initially it would kind of lag before the crossover and after the crossover was "tuned" the motor sounded stronger and stronger through the RPM range...no lag in the middle. I wouldn't want to say where mine crosses over because it's been a while and I don't pay much attention to it anymore...but it's definately lower than the stock point.