help me debug my chipped p28
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i had a spare p28 laying around so i decided to chip it. got the chip kit and rom burner from moates. after i got everthing back together, i took the chip from my current working ecu and copy the Mugen bin and burned a new chip for the new ecu. when i turn the ignition on, the check engine light comes on and stays on. when i hit the brake, the cruise/shift light comes on. the car starts up and seems to idle fine. i didn't drive it around cause i didn't want to hurt anything. i took the new burned chip and put it in the old ecu and the car runs fine. another question, the vtec info option on my vafc doesn't show the right x-over as set on the chip like it's suppose to. it shows the same number doesn't mater what i set on the chip.


Modified by rice4life at 3:56 PM 12/10/2004


Modified by rice4life at 3:56 PM 12/10/2004
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crap, i found out what could be wrong. ecu code is P28-A52 meaning this is an auto tranny ecu. my friend works at a junk jard and got it for me but i never asked him if it was from an auto for manual.
does any have a good link to convert auto to manual?
thank,
does any have a good link to convert auto to manual?
thank,
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ok, i removed rp17 and replace rp18 with a jumper. still not working. when i turn the ignition on, the engine light and the cruise/shift light comes on and stay on. i start the car and the engine seem to idle fine. what else could be the problem. what's that black box to the right of the socket. i had to desolder it and bend it over to make room for the socket. could i have that and would it give me the problem that i have now.
The black box is a barometric pressure sensor. As long as you resoldered it it should not be the problem. How about pics of the entire board? You left out the other half. And not to criticize your soldering could use some work. Recheck the junctions and make sure that the contacts are good and that there are no shorts from solder splatter
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who did the solder work. You have too much excess solder on alot of the componets installed which can cause a short somewhere. Also the honda circuit build is a multilayer card so you have to make sure that the 28 pin socket has solder on the top and bottom of the board on the pins.
Check your 28 pin socket and if it seems ok then try to clean up your solder work and be more careful b/c I can see a couple of burn marks from soldering. If you have a microscope use it.
After looking a lil more, check the bottom of the IC4 chip it looks like some of the excess solder is on some of the wires which will cause it to short. Look at pins 5, 6, and 7 of the IC4 chip(far right in pic). Hope this helps.

Check your 28 pin socket and if it seems ok then try to clean up your solder work and be more careful b/c I can see a couple of burn marks from soldering. If you have a microscope use it.
After looking a lil more, check the bottom of the IC4 chip it looks like some of the excess solder is on some of the wires which will cause it to short. Look at pins 5, 6, and 7 of the IC4 chip(far right in pic). Hope this helps.

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picture of the whole board
i realize that my sodering skills is pretty weak but that's the best i can do with the tools that i have. i've moded several ps2 and xbox and i have never had any problem with them and i think those are a lot harder to do than chipping the p28. i know the board has circuit on both side but there's a metal cylinder in the hole that connects the top and the bottom, so i think i only have to soder the one side. the excess soder was the result of me resodering some of the pins after the first time the ecu didn't work. i resolder some pins that looks suspect but nothing changed. even after moding the ecu from auto to manual, the resistors still don't look like the manual ecu that i have.
i realize that my sodering skills is pretty weak but that's the best i can do with the tools that i have. i've moded several ps2 and xbox and i have never had any problem with them and i think those are a lot harder to do than chipping the p28. i know the board has circuit on both side but there's a metal cylinder in the hole that connects the top and the bottom, so i think i only have to soder the one side. the excess soder was the result of me resodering some of the pins after the first time the ecu didn't work. i resolder some pins that looks suspect but nothing changed. even after moding the ecu from auto to manual, the resistors still don't look like the manual ecu that i have.
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seriously dude I dont think its your ECU, but cutting J1 will tell you for sure. Replace J1 with a switch so you can change from stock to not so stock!
Go back to your middle pic. The IC4 chip(one you installed on the right hand side of the pic) looks like it has solder running over onto wires on the ckt board! Start from the bottom right side of the chip in the pic and count to the left 1, 2, 3,..... until you get to pins 5, 6, and 7. They look like solder is running over onto that run(wire) on the board which will cause a short a and a code 0(zero), Faulty ECU.
If thats not it, look under you socket(28 pin) and make sure it has conductivity! Use an ohmmeter to be sure! 0 ohms is a short and overload or infinite is an open.
Go back to your middle pic. The IC4 chip(one you installed on the right hand side of the pic) looks like it has solder running over onto wires on the ckt board! Start from the bottom right side of the chip in the pic and count to the left 1, 2, 3,..... until you get to pins 5, 6, and 7. They look like solder is running over onto that run(wire) on the board which will cause a short a and a code 0(zero), Faulty ECU.
If thats not it, look under you socket(28 pin) and make sure it has conductivity! Use an ohmmeter to be sure! 0 ohms is a short and overload or infinite is an open.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice4life »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another question, the vtec info option on my vafc doesn't show the right x-over as set on the chip like it's suppose to. it shows the same number doesn't mater what i set on the chip.
Modified by rice4life at 3:56 PM 12/10/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well even though you changed vtec in the bin file doesnt mean that its going to change on the vtec controller. the vtec controller is going to override any vtec setting you have in your bin file.
Modified by rice4life at 3:56 PM 12/10/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well even though you changed vtec in the bin file doesnt mean that its going to change on the vtec controller. the vtec controller is going to override any vtec setting you have in your bin file.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedZone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well even though you changed vtec in the bin file doesnt mean that its going to change on the vtec controller. the vtec controller is going to override any vtec setting you have in your bin file.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm not sure you know what i mean. the vafc2 have a vtec info option that shows the factory vtec setting on the ecu, not what you set it at one the controller. the L->H always show 6500 but the H->L does show the correct value that i set on the bin.
i'm not sure you know what i mean. the vafc2 have a vtec info option that shows the factory vtec setting on the ecu, not what you set it at one the controller. the L->H always show 6500 but the H->L does show the correct value that i set on the bin.
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well, 93turbo16 came over and took a look at the ecu. we removed J1 and got a code 13, which was the barometric pressure sensor. i guess i must have damaged it when i desolder it. he replaced it with one from a spare ecu and everything worked fine. but when we hook the J1 back on, no check engine light but the cruise/shift light came on. other then that, everything seem to work fine when we drove the car around. he said that the same light came on his friends car when he used a chipped p28 converted from auto to manual. can anyone esle who use an auto to maual p28 confirm this.
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