i did a search but only came up with a couple threads, just wanted to make sure of something..

on my b18c with forged internals that was just built, can i plug the oil squirters? ive heard they're only needed for cast/oem pistons and they can be plugged to boost oil pressure. one of mine is stripped and keeps turning and i was looking to do this.. do these jets only squirt the pistons to keep them cool? - they're not what keep the clyinder walls oiled, are they? thanks.

 

You don't need em for forged aluminum internals. I have cp pistons, and earl reccommended plugging mine when I sent my block to him.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lke2drvgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did a search but only came up with a couple threads, just wanted to make sure of something..

on my b18c with forged internals that was just built, can i plug the oil squirters? ive heard they're only needed for cast/oem pistons and they can be plugged to boost oil pressure. one of mine is stripped and keeps turning and i was looking to do this.. do these jets only squirt the pistons to keep them cool? - they're not what keep the clyinder walls oiled, are they? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the exact same problem as you, it was a major pain in the ***, but I ended up plugging them all. If you strip the thread make sure that you get ALL the thread shavings out of the block. The squirters are connected directly below the main oil galley, if you had the block upside down, all the shavings went in the main oil galley and from there the only way they can go is through the bearings, you don't want that.

 

Use a 1/8" pipe tap and rethread the hole. Do not drill it first. Install an 1/8" allen head pipe plug and you are good to go.
Use a 14mm allen wrench to remove both main oil galley plugs and clean thoroughly.

 

Is this just recommended for dragging, if you running 300-400hp on the street should/could you still plug it?
What about if you have **** fuel? We don't have the 120+octane fuels you guys have, will the squirters help at all?

 

i was wondering this too. i am piecing together my setup as we speak (on paper i need money) and am aimming for about 600-50hp for the track and a little less for the street, would i benefit at all by plugging the oil squirters? i plan on getting benson sleeves, so what do you think earl?

 

honda designed the oil squirters to cool oem CAST aluminum pistons. Not needed for FORGED pistons but you can run them if you like.

 

so if the oil squirters ONLY oil the bottom of the pistons, what keeps the cylinder walls oiled?


btw, the bottom was stripped but the bolt still went in. we just used many layers of teflon tape (and did a heat test to make sure it wouldn't melt ) and it's in there pretty solid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lke2drvgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if the oil squirters ONLY oil the bottom of the pistons, what keeps the cylinder walls oiled?</TD></TR></TABLE>The same way as most every other engine in the world does it. As the rods spin, excess oil is thrown onto the cylinder walls.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lke2drvgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
btw, the bottom was stripped but the bolt still went in. we just used many layers of teflon tape (and did a heat test to make sure it wouldn't melt ) and it's in there pretty solid.</TD></TR></TABLE>You do understand that if that bolt works itself loose, you will lose most of your oil pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The same way as most every other engine in the world does it. As the rods spin, excess oil is thrown onto the cylinder walls.

You do understand that if that bolt works itself loose, you will lose most of your oil pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>


wow i never knew that cylinder wall oiling was that "ghetto", i always thought there was something else forcing oil onto the walls... interesting.

as far as the bolt's concerned, it's not like we can easily unscrew it, i mean it's in there with pressure, hard to get out by hand. it just keeps turning when you try tightening it.

 

could it vibrate loose?
maybe loctite would work better?

 

we take a stack of copper or aluminum crush washers that add up to the thickness of the squirter body and use the stock squirter bolt with blue locktite to hold them in.

 

Not a bad idea. It is impossible to find 8mm bolts with a .75 thread pitch.