ok, right now, all I have is a stock LS engine with just I/H/E

I was planning on building a nice setup
Here is what I have so far:
ITR shortblock
GSR head
Toda C's
Eibach Valve springs

Still need to get:
TWM ITBs
2 layer head gasket
Retainers
ECU
Cam gears
Timing Belt
Head studs
Distributor

So I still need maybe $3,000

Now, I have a new Idea in my head, all motor B20 non vtec
I can get my hands on a sweet 2000 JDM B20 w/P8R head

The rest of the setup would consist of:
Crower 404
Crower valve springs and retainers
bored out ITR throttle body
Prelude Injectors
AEM FPR
2 layer head gasket
skunk2 cam gears
ported skunk2 manifold

What to do? I want both?
One thing is for sure, I don't want to mod the LS, I want to keep the engine stock, and keep it on the side, in case anything were to happen to my "built" motor

 

what is the b20 swap going to cost you?

 

In terms of maximum power, the reality is that a VTEC head outflows and is designed to handle higher lift cams and RPMs.

However, the downside is cost. Not only the head itself, the conversion, the reenforcing to the bottom end that you would need to do, but the aftermarket parts. If you look at the price of aftermarket cams for vtec vs non-vtec, its night and day.

The nice thing about a B20nonvtec, is a basic 404 - 405 setup is not only cheap, but you can make good power and a broad powerband with out reving to the sky.

With a 6,800rpm redline I made 165whp with nothing more than 404's, a milled head, and I/H/T/E (DC 4-2-1, shitty, and a 2.25" exhaust) on my old B18B.

As stated earlier, the vtec heads have hinged rockers (instead of a ball and sock type), better oiling, better cam cap bracing, larger valves, etc

If you don't mind a rougher idle, and want to save money, you can get a LOT of bang for the buck out of a nonvtec setup. If money is no object, then a vtec head is the way to go.

 

<---- just bought 404's used for a cheap price

even if i decide not to go that route, i can sell them , and not loose any money

 

my one concern is that with my current gearing, my stock redline is too low for most tracks, i run out of revs, but its not worth shifting because the next corner i'd have to downshift to pull myself out of the corner

I'm hoping that I can rev the stock b20 bottom end to at least 8,000
I know it could handle it for everyday , or even drag racing
but sustained high rpm , of 30 minute sessions, could be hazardous

 

You could raise the redline to 7,500 rpm or so and not have to worry about the head.

You have the ITR tranny?

I find my gearing almost perfect for the track, (b16). I once felt the same way, that the gearing was working against me because I had to downshift, but I soon realized that it works to my advantage.

Even times where it looks like its not worth up-shifting because a corner is fast approaching, I still get faster lap times when I do then downshift. As long as you are comfortable doing so, it will keep you in your power-band longer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the b20 swap going to cost you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I want to know! A P8R head is nice!

Second of all if you already have an ITR block and GSR head, why are you searching to do an allmotor B20! That is also extra money out of your pocket! I honestly say work with what you have and if you later want to go allmotor B20 then just pick up a shell hatch or CRX for a couplee hundred buck and then you can have both!

I not knocking non-vtecs, b/c I have and allmotor nonvtec myself! What I am saying is dont waste more money buying another motor when it can go into what you already have! Which ever way you go take your time and build it right, dont just slap it together!

Another thing on your potential B20 shopping list should be Pistons!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In terms of maximum power, the reality is that a VTEC head outflows and is designed to handle higher lift cams and RPMs.

However, the downside is cost. Not only the head itself, the conversion, the reenforcing to the bottom end that you would need to do, but the aftermarket parts. If you look at the price of aftermarket cams for vtec vs non-vtec, its night and day.

The nice thing about a B20nonvtec, is a basic 404 - 405 setup is not only cheap, but you can make good power and a broad powerband with out reving to the sky.

With a 6,800rpm redline I made 165whp with nothing more than 404's, a milled head, and I/H/T/E (DC 4-2-1, shitty, and a 2.25" exhaust) on my old B18B.

As stated earlier, the vtec heads have hinged rockers (instead of a ball and sock type), better oiling, better cam cap bracing, larger valves, etc

If you don't mind a rougher idle, and want to save money, you can get a LOT of bang for the buck out of a nonvtec setup. If money is no object, then a vtec head is the way to go.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">&lt;---- just bought 404's used for a cheap price

even if i decide not to go that route, i can sell them , and not loose any money</TD></TR></TABLE>

+2 pts

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my one concern is that with my current gearing, my stock redline is too low for most tracks, i run out of revs, but its not worth shifting because the next corner i'd have to downshift to pull myself out of the corner

I'm hoping that I can rev the stock b20 bottom end to at least 8,000
I know it could handle it for everyday , or even drag racing
but sustained high rpm , of 30 minute sessions, could be hazardous</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your gearing is fine, dont worry about! Listen to StyleTeg.

Stock B20 block I would not push it that far without proper preparation:

-Shotpeening
-Fresh Bearings
-ARP rod bolts

 

I just don't see the point in building a b20 when you already have the VTEC head and the ITR block. ****, I know you said you wanted to leave the LS alone, but take the crank and rods out of that bad boy and put it in the ITR block! Then you would have a killer setup.

 

I'm building an all motor non vtec right now, but only because I'm a cheap bastard. If I had the money to spend on a vtec head, I probably would. There's so many reasons why the vtec head is that much better.

 

Check the sig. Thats what you can do with a NONTEC setup

 

id say how about you just give me the cams and your header and your tranny and ill give you my parts off my car and we will call it even

-Brian

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just don't see the point in building a b20 when you already have the VTEC head and the ITR block. ****, I know you said you wanted to leave the LS alone, but take the crank and rods out of that bad boy and put it in the ITR block! Then you would have a killer setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True!

89mm = more torque and higher compression

 

you better stop frontin' and aquire vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkRiBLaH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you better stop frontin' and aquire vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the thing is, he already has it so I dont see why he would spend the $ to go the other route when it can go into what he already has!

 

you have a valid point

working at this new place selling engines, is bad, cuz it too tempting to buy something for youself

 

IMO just build what you got now and do an allmotor B20 later when you find a shell for another project car!

 

biuld the gsr block to high compression specs, port/polish that head, drop in those spec c's. install the twm's.

get tuned

own slo turb0 kaas + domestics