prjctCIVIC

planning on getting a swap and thinking about a b20 with gsr tranny??? want to keep it all motor and was wondering if it is even worth pursuing on a non vtec motor??? thanks

insane900rr

If you through a B16 head on it you'll get alot more power and you'll get vtec also

VTECVillain

A regular B20B/Z (not a CRVTEC) with a GSR tranny will pull really hard, really good torque. Everyone's solution for a B20 is a B16 head but that's not always practical or the "right" solution. You can add cams, mild headwork and some tuning with normal bolt-ons and have a nice setup. You can also boost them from the factory due to their low compression. Boosted B20 =

eg6ajk

yes do a non-vtec 2.0l with crowers 403 or 404 and other bolt ons 170whp is more then realistic without resorting to a vtec head.


[Modified by eg6ajk, 8:28 AM 1/27/2003]

B20Coupe

crower doesnt make 304's for a non-vtec motor....ill tel you what i have...

crower 402's with 3-angle valve jobby job, skunk2 cam gears, AEM, skunk2 intake mani, retainers, and vavle springs, makes 136whp(mid 160ish to the crank), and 116lb/ft(??? crank)

might i add that i have no fuel or ecu tunning, however the guy that was running my car on his dyno assured me that i could get 150whp and over 120lb/ft if i had proper ability to change fuel maps ect.

my advice is if you want to go N/A on a non-vtec motor to put it in a light *** car, like a 92-95 cx hatch, or something like that cause the trq will move my big *** coupe but the hp is lacking to make her sail...

/gl and happy b20'ing

Kataku2K3

I would just go CRVTEC with it, but again that's just my opinion... A couple of my friend's have 12second simple CRVTEC's that's why I like them... I would still go with a 85mm bore B18C anyday even though you lose the 1.8mm of stroke.. I know the straight B20/EG and hang with a stock GSR/EG on bottom end but just wait till you get on top... As for the tranny I would only go with a VTEC tranny (GSR, B16, or ITR) if you are planning on planning on goin VTEC... The gears are a bit shorter and with the CRV not being as high strung you don't get a lot of load on the motor, it will spin a lot easier on bottom end tho... Just cruising on the freeway will be a bit different than with an LS tranny.... I know many of you have already heard this but oh well... With just 84.25mm JE 12.0:1 slugs, stock rods, a Portflow GSR head, SK2 IM, CTR IN cam, (GSR EX), RC 310's, ITR ECU and VAFC.. My friend's CRVTEC full interior EK ran a 12.62@107, it's still never been on the dyno... only tuned by feel... My other friend has a similar setup in his Teg except running 12.5:1 JE slugs, Eagle rods, Hondata, and SK2 St2 cams.. It ran a 12.93@107 but I'm sure it would be faster in a lighter chassis... It has a gay *** ugly accord headlight conversion and body kit... These motors aren't much over what you have that's why I would say just go CRVTEC on it for a lot more power.. Good Luck

Kataku2K3

Forgot to add the straight B20 is cool too but I'm just not a big fan of nonVTEC DOHC motors, they just have a lot more potential in the long run...

prjctCIVIC

thinking about the vtec head but kinda low on cash for now....maybe down the road

DevinW

It's possible to hit high 13s/low 14s with cams, I/H/E and tuning on street tires with a B20Z and vtec tranny. Low 13s with slicks....12s with pistons and headwork on slicks for sure. That's the plan for me! (Eventually)

prjctCIVIC

how much for resleeving the motor?? and who should i go to?? thanks

Kataku2K3

I would recommend either Golden Eagle or RS.... I haven't worked with RS that much but i've heard good things about them.... I do have good experience with GE tho, they do awesome work and that's who I would go through... http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/sleeves.htm

locass316

had a b16 in eg blew motor than got a b20 stock with even dx ecu pulls hard in low santacruz rd 5th gear all the way no down shift.. this is with dx ecu gas is good unlike vtec .. no need to down shift all time on freeways.. with si trans

Westrock2000

Mine is tuned to crap and it pulls much better than my b18b did.

I got a b20b block B18B Head, JE 12.5:1 pistons(although only about 11.8 on a LS head). 2 layer b20 head gasket. A crower 62404 intake and LS exhaust cam (real shitty, gonna go to full OEM cams to get everything running first). And a 4-1 DC header and real short Intake. LS intake manifold. And APEXi S-AFC. I havent given her more than 75% throttle, but it definently pulls better than the B18B ever did, especially just passing in fifth gear and not having to downshift.

BTW this car is very untuned as of right now....I have the idle at about 2K cause it wont idle under 800 RPM, due Im sure to cam timing. Also using 93 Octane here in Texas.

I would like to trade my header for a 4-2-1 and probably get a longer AEM or Injen style intake in order to take advantage of the 2000-5000 RPM torque area.

Westrock2000

However I will add this. If I could do it again, for the same price I paid for all that....

1000 Longblock
700 Valvetrain
500 Pistons

I would have probably just buy the B20B longblock and then make a junkyard turbo or even retrofit one of the $1500 Greddy D Series turbo kits (Someone on this board did this about a year ago, and it actually worked!). You would then be looking at about 130-150 Ft-lbs and probably 160-190 HP. And yes that may be a bit conservative. Also you have to realize that 180 HP peaking at 5400 RPM is alot different that 180 HP peaking at 7500+ like on the all motor VTEC engines. I really enjoy the Torque on this thing.

I think a junkyard turbo on a stroked out 84mm nonVTEC B18B would be sweet. Torque would hit at about 3000 RPM and it would be alot, probably alot like the VW engines.

No-Gi

DC intake
GSR stock header
2.25 exh
Running lean as hell.

Now have S2k intake manifold
soon..
JG header
Crower 404's
AFC

B20Coupe

those numbers are pretty good, but then agian, that is a dyno jet...

this is what i have done on my b20b and make 136@6600 and 116@5400

skunk2 intake mani, stock ls ex mani, test pipe, 2.25 apexi WS exhaust, aem intake, crower 402's with retainers and springs, skunk2 cam gears, 3-angle valve job, ls head, b&m fpr(at 55 psi), and stock obd1 ls computer

I NEED A CHIPPED OBD1 LS ECU ASAP, so the freaking fuel maps can be changed...GOSH DURNET (so if anyone has one IM on AOL @ Tha420dragon)
DANKS

No-Gi

what kind of dyno did you use?

B20Coupe

its called a dynopack...it reads the hp by bolting onto the lugs...if you can imagine that both front wheels are taken off and two boxes are connected to the lugs...its spins just like a dyno jet would....but its not on rollers,

ive heard of ppl lowering there tire psi and gaining hp out of it...

dyno pack is just more accurate than a dynojet

yaya

i was thinking of a b20 allmotor for my hatch....talked to a guy who has somthing like 220 230 to the wheels with his b20 vtec setup, he says he wished he had just bought an itr engine instead

DevinW

You definitely can't smote the reliability of the Type R engine...but to each thier own!

dmotoguy

true, but you cant beat the power of the b20/vtec... and who goes more than 60,000 on a built motor anyways??

LANDMARK23

learn how to spell

Soon2BeEK

b20's with b16 heads rule. Flows better than anything.

V3locity

if you're going to re-sleeve it, go buy a cheap LS block, unless you just like wasting money. I'd make sure to get an aftermarket intake mani (skunk 2), the stock ones suck. Make sure you build the bottom end right if you want it to last. Be careful with those b20 sleeves, i've heard alot of stories of them cracking and stuff.

A D NOH

Was it jinxproof that had a B20 EK that ran low 13s non vtec??
I know he had that turbo car but i thought he had another allmotor street car.

People have built fast non vtec motors