So I Am About To Build A Performance Engine
And there are quite a few different routes to take for the ultimate gains. But first let me get my goal out on the table, I want to hit 250hp+ to the crank and the torque to follow, and keep the engine naturally aspired, and still run relativley smoothly as a daily driver. I know it may be a far fetched goal, but if I fall under the goal of 250hp+ to the crank, I won't be too disapointed, as I'll still have an impressive machine. And I'd prefer to avoid the nitrous/turbo/supercharger route, they all seem rather shadey and I've seen many things involving them go wrong on too many occasions.
Engine Wise, the options are:
A.) Rebuild my current USDM H23, using the proper internals and bolt-ons
B.) Purchase a used JDM H22A1 from a shop
C.) Build up the bottom end of my USDM H23 and swap on the H22A1 Head
As for the transmission:
A.)My current transmission is having syncro problems, so I would either fix that, or purchase the tranny for the h22.
-A question that arises there is what are the differences? I've heard about H23(Short Gears) and H22(Long Gears), also the LSD tranny is definatley a turn-on that I am leaning heavily towards.
The mods I'm looking into are .. Prelude Type-S Cam Shafts, Prelude Type-S Piston heads, JUN valves and retainers, AEM Tru Power Pulleys, Stage 2 Clutch, Lightened Flywheel, DC 4-2-1 SS Headers, and also the mods I currently have listed HERE.
With the things listed what else would I need? Such as would I need to change the fuel system, ignition, airflow, timing, performance ECU such as hondata, or any of the sort to keep the car running smoothly?
I really want to take the safest route possible, but also get the best bang for my buck. What are your opinions?
Engine Wise, the options are:
A.) Rebuild my current USDM H23, using the proper internals and bolt-ons
B.) Purchase a used JDM H22A1 from a shop
C.) Build up the bottom end of my USDM H23 and swap on the H22A1 Head
As for the transmission:
A.)My current transmission is having syncro problems, so I would either fix that, or purchase the tranny for the h22.
-A question that arises there is what are the differences? I've heard about H23(Short Gears) and H22(Long Gears), also the LSD tranny is definatley a turn-on that I am leaning heavily towards.
The mods I'm looking into are .. Prelude Type-S Cam Shafts, Prelude Type-S Piston heads, JUN valves and retainers, AEM Tru Power Pulleys, Stage 2 Clutch, Lightened Flywheel, DC 4-2-1 SS Headers, and also the mods I currently have listed HERE.
With the things listed what else would I need? Such as would I need to change the fuel system, ignition, airflow, timing, performance ECU such as hondata, or any of the sort to keep the car running smoothly?
I really want to take the safest route possible, but also get the best bang for my buck. What are your opinions?
i think you should go with the jdm h22a.. and maybe do a setup like typesh98 (i think thats his sn) but hes got an asskicking all motor h22... there are some others out there too.. search i guess?
If you DO end up getting a H22a1, or jdm h22a, i would definitely recommend getting a new tranny. Especially since you're having issues already. You have it backwards, H23 have longer gear ratio's and H22 trannies have shorter gear ratio's. Thus, meaning you will not drop out of vtec with an H22 tranny, and you will accelerate faster. Why not go for the tranny that has lsd, not a bad idea.
Why are your engine mods leaning on type-s stuff so much? If you have money, then just go with a different set up to get a higher compression ratio. Type S pistons are only what, 11:1? What kind of gas you have there, compression ratio is key when getting N/A power. I have never used a DC sports header, but everyone on here seems to agree it's a POS. There are definitely better options out there.
Ditch your 18" wheels man. N/A power is hard enough to come by, you don't need those big lugs weighing you down.
Don't forget you might need a set of camgears, and ignition timing is gonna be important too.
As far as engine management goes, it never hurts to over shoot it. Since it IS the brain. Go with hondata or even AEM EMS if you have the money
Remember just because you're N/A doesn't mean you're safe. As soon as you open up that block, anything goes. Especially if you plan on making good power. I'm gonna venture to say any high N/A engine has been blown at least once before. Best bang for your buck? Sure as hell isn't N/A
Hope that helps
Why are your engine mods leaning on type-s stuff so much? If you have money, then just go with a different set up to get a higher compression ratio. Type S pistons are only what, 11:1? What kind of gas you have there, compression ratio is key when getting N/A power. I have never used a DC sports header, but everyone on here seems to agree it's a POS. There are definitely better options out there.
Ditch your 18" wheels man. N/A power is hard enough to come by, you don't need those big lugs weighing you down.
Don't forget you might need a set of camgears, and ignition timing is gonna be important too.
As far as engine management goes, it never hurts to over shoot it. Since it IS the brain. Go with hondata or even AEM EMS if you have the money
Remember just because you're N/A doesn't mean you're safe. As soon as you open up that block, anything goes. Especially if you plan on making good power. I'm gonna venture to say any high N/A engine has been blown at least once before. Best bang for your buck? Sure as hell isn't N/A
Hope that helps
Rebuild your h23 bottom end with lighter/stronger rods and .25 over type-s pistons, and make sure you get it balanced and blueprinted... H22 head with a built valvetrain and some beefy cams... For engine management: Hondata s100 w/o the boost option isnt that expensive and is highly reccomended... You might max out your injectors... But that would be a great all motor daily driver... Oh and you would need a better header than DC...
First off, let me state that you will not hit 250 WHP n/a. It just is unlikely to happen. Keeping that in mind, here's what I recommend:
Rebuild your H23. Up the compression w/ forged pistons, rework the rods, use new gaskets/bearings, get the head worked and install some Crower stg.III's w/ the upgraded valvetrain, and then put a nice shot of nitrous on there.
Or you could do a similar setup on the H22, but then you would have to go through buyin a new block.
I would do a conservative build and spray some nitrous for when you need the extra power, simply because you prob. won't come close to 250 WHP on the motor alone.
EDIT - I just saw that you were considering the H23 VTEC. I recommend this, as it will decrease your need for portwork, but it will take more money to buy the VTEC head and parts needed.
Rebuild your H23. Up the compression w/ forged pistons, rework the rods, use new gaskets/bearings, get the head worked and install some Crower stg.III's w/ the upgraded valvetrain, and then put a nice shot of nitrous on there.
Or you could do a similar setup on the H22, but then you would have to go through buyin a new block.
I would do a conservative build and spray some nitrous for when you need the extra power, simply because you prob. won't come close to 250 WHP on the motor alone.
EDIT - I just saw that you were considering the H23 VTEC. I recommend this, as it will decrease your need for portwork, but it will take more money to buy the VTEC head and parts needed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by homesauce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He means 250 to the fly, not wheel I believe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Whoops! I just can't read today!
250 crank HP = ~217 flywheel HP
That's attainable. H23 VTEC, upped compression, bigger cams, bolt ons and you should be close.
Whoops! I just can't read today!
250 crank HP = ~217 flywheel HP
That's attainable. H23 VTEC, upped compression, bigger cams, bolt ons and you should be close.
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I was looking into the type-s stuff because they were ment for the prelude and have noticeable gains. But I may upgrade farther if I can still keep the power and ride smooth.
And what headers would you recommend over the DC?
And I am already looking into new lightweight rims, such as volks, but what else is out there?
And what headers would you recommend over the DC?
And I am already looking into new lightweight rims, such as volks, but what else is out there?
217 WHP is going to be a challenge even with the H23 crank. You need some nice cams as Type-S will be a challenge to tune to that level. You need some good compression 12:1 TUNED with Hondata or AEM EMS or other standalone. NO VAFC or other piggyback.
headers:
Prospeed
AN-R
Kteller
Hytech
SMSP
Get merge collectors and stainless steel so it lasts and a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust.
Good luck
Pirate
headers:
Prospeed
AN-R
Kteller
Hytech
SMSP
Get merge collectors and stainless steel so it lasts and a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust.
Good luck
Pirate
Satan Srv is at 214whp with way more mods... It's going to be expensive trying to get 217whp. good luck
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