I have an 00 Si tastefully moded: CTR cams w/spoon gears, JDM 4-1 header, Mugen twin loop, VAFC, and AEM intake. My friends GS-R is out of commission so he said I can use his engine indeinitly. I have 80,000 miles on my B16, and the GS-R has 140,000. The engine had a compression leak down around 100,000 and everything checked out. Is it worth the effort?

 

i would do it.... the gsr would be way faster if you put those ctr cams in.....
its worth the effort if you ask me........

 

stick with what you have then build that gsr and drop it in another car

 

what's the going rate for a swap? when i say worth it, im saying is it worth paying to get it swapped in. would my JDM header fit the engine? would there be any problems with Obd2-Obd1 conversion?

 

that motor has a lot of miles, but it would be faster.

you should do the swap yourself, don't pay somebody to do it.

if you pay somebody, its going to run you about 5 bills for the labor work.

 

or if u are in so cal i will do it for 300

 

if he is just giving it to you or if he is giving it to you for CHEAP i would do it. do the swap yourself. It will broaden your knowledge and let you get to know the vehicle better. Just swap over your cams/cam gears, header and just build this baby up. You can put the money saved from labor towards a skunk2 intake manifold, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator all together. Sell the b16 for a grand or so and put that money into some high comp. pistons or something.

 

I would think really hard about it, do you really need this? I swapped my b16 for a b18c R motor, and wish I never did. reasons I switched, got tired of b16 turbo, wanted all motor- reason i wish I never did-got tired of being a "honda racer", got into luxury/sport, by the old age of 21!!!!! The experience was fun, but now i think of all the money I spent.... btw, if you do it, don't sell your motor so cheap like this guy is saying...

 

best idea yet Chris M. I had a guy do a B16 swap for my friends EK and he only charged maybe $250 for it. So I think it would be a lot simpler for him since he already has the know-how and tools. Im getting the engine free. I was also thinking of mating the B16 head to the GS-R.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pearlblueb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">best idea yet Chris M. I had a guy do a B16 swap for my friends EK and he only charged maybe $250 for it. So I think it would be a lot simpler for him since he already has the know-how and tools. Im getting the engine free. I was also thinking of mating the B16 head to the GS-R.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was my thought, just use the bottom end from the GSR and keep your head & tranny. Maybe throw some ITR pistons/rings in to freshen the high-mileage GSR block up and give some more power.

 

I say go for it.
I had a b16 obviously in my Si and siwtched for a b18c with JDM p73s
Made great horsepower with JUN satge 3 cams and kept my Pr3 head.
My buddie has a DC5 with a Hondata Kpro with an intake and exhaust.
I take him easily while giving him a gear head start on a roll.

Do what I did.
Just take your time with the B18.
Don't rush things.
Oh and lose the VAFC at the same time of the drop.
You have pretty agressive cams, they will like most people said work awesome with the higher compression.
I suggest running RC270 injectors also; they will work like a charm. Don't skimp out on fuel consumption and engine management trust me! (Search my name - I blew my motor after 3,000 miles of rebuild because I skimpped out on fuel)

The B18 you're lookin at has a lot of miles.
It doesn't cost much hone and tank the block.
Get a set of nice OEM pistons possibly need to go .20 over since it's kinda old but that's even better in the long run.
Disassemble the block, get new internals, take your time, bolt it up and have fun.

 

Because of the mileage, I would freshen up the block. Use it as an opportunity to bump up the compression (if you want to stay n/a) with new pistons and rings, along with seals and bearings. If it's a free motor, I don't see why you wouldn't take it, and work on it.

There's no reason to get rid of the VAFC, and bigger injectors aren't really a necessity at this time, or after the new block goes in.

 

speaking for myself, if i really liked the car, i'd probably do it. Make sure you know what you're getting into if you decide to tho. Could be hassle and down time..

I'd personally drop the engine into hatch tho, if i was after performance.

 

i would P&P the 16 head and swap in the 18 bottom..bang u got a B18C5 w/o a red cover.

 

Any motor can be made new again, erasing any high milage concerns. get ur gsr, tear it apart, boil it and slap it back with new seals and what not. will run like brand new.

 

Is the GS-R block the same as the ITR?

 

Yeah blocks are the same basically, internally they are different.
ITR has a bit more compression from their pistons.

 

the itr block innards are designed to handle 8400rpms, the gsr is not.

d

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the itr block innards are designed to handle 8400rpms, the gsr is not.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not the block it's the valvetrain that really allows the ITR more rpms. The GSR goes up over 8000rpms stock, it's really not asking much to go out to 8400. You can crank nearly 8000 on stock D-series bottom end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by klungemonger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's not the block it's the valvetrain that really allows the ITR more rpms. The GSR goes up over 8000rpms stock, it's really not asking much to go out to 8400. You can crank nearly 8000 on stock D-series bottom end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, experiences may dictate that the gsr valve train may be the weaker link for higher redlines, but honda didn't go to great lengths and cost to improve the block on the itr for no reason. Heres a few upgrades the itr block was treated to over the gsr.

29)Lower Friction Pistons ---------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
30)Specially made Conrod bolts--------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
31)Molybdenum Coated Piston Skirts---------------------(GS-R - N/A)
32)Light Weight Piston Skirts------------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
33)Increased Side Molds on pistons-----------------------(GS-R - N/A)
34)Light Weight Reinforced Piston Rods-------------------(GS-R - N/A)
35)Fully Balanced 8 Weight Crank Shaft------------------(GS-R - N/A)
---Weights were added to #1 & #4
36)New Adjustable Connectors on Crank Shaft----------(GS-R - N/A)
37)Fully Balanced Crank Shaft-----------------------------(GS-R - N/A)
38)Connecting Rods Mirror Polished-----------------------(GS-R - N/A)


One might argue that some of these upgrades were for more power, and not strength, but these differences are certainly worth considering, before encouraging one to make blind choices.

Just because so and so's overrevved gsr block hasn't blown up, doesn't mean its not wearing faster.

d

 

do wat eg6si said