ok i have a 96 dx coupe just installed a usdm 5 lug i need to swap out the brake booster and mc because i know for sure i am not getting the amount of fluid in my new brakes well i been looking around i found a gsr brake booster and mc with prop for $650 brand new and just recently found a used 95 gsr one for 100 plus shipping but i dont know if it works he said it work but can i trust him? i found a type r one but it was more expensive i heard its the samething so i think i should go with the gsr one do i have to bend any lines to fit a gsr brake booster and master cylinder also i just bought a brand new type r prop valve will it fit? in my civic please let me know i need help asap i am thinking of going to this local shop to do it but if its not that much work i will do it to save me some cash let me know
thanks also if you have a type r brake booster and mc or gsr and working condtion and in perfect condition (visual) also let me know im interested thanks

 

since you have a EK i recommend the type R Booster and MC because there is no bending of the hard lines, completely bolt on. As for the prop valve i just stuck with my DX one im pretty sure its the same as the SI one, but correct me if im wrong. Good luck

 

i think you will need to change the prop valve because DX is drum in the rear and if you change it to 5 lug (i'm assuming you are changing the rear to disc) it will have disc in the back. If I remeber right drum brakes need more pressure so if you convert the rear to disc the rear would lock up very easy or will not fully unlock because the pressure to the rear is too much.
But I could be wrong. Can someone else confirm this?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xhatchracerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for the prop valve i just stuck with my DX one im pretty sure its the same as the SI one, but correct me if im wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmekrsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i have a 96 dx coupe just installed a usdm 5 lug i need to swap out the brake booster and mc because i know for sure i am not getting the amount of fluid in my new brakes well i been looking around i found a gsr brake booster and mc with prop for $650 brand new and just recently found a used 95 gsr one for 100 plus shipping but i dont know if it works he said it work but can i trust him? i found a type r one but it was more expensive i heard its the samething so i think i should go with the gsr one do i have to bend any lines to fit a gsr brake booster and master cylinder also i just bought a brand new type r prop valve will it fit? in my civic please let me know i need help asap i am thinking of going to this local shop to do it but if its not that much work i will do it to save me some cash let me know
thanks also if you have a type r brake booster and mc or gsr and working condtion and in perfect condition (visual) also let me know im interested thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

punctuation keys are broken?

anyways, the EK hatch has the SAME PROP VALVE as the 99-00 si. most people say that it's perfectly suitable for 4 wheel disc brakes. if you want a bolt-in MC and BB upgrade, go for 99-00 si MC and BB. you can pick up remanufactured ones with lifetime warranties for ~$350 from kragen/shucks/autozone

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dantastic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

punctuation keys are broken?

anyways, the EK hatch has the SAME PROP VALVE as the 99-00 si. most people say that it's perfectly suitable for 4 wheel disc brakes. if you want a bolt-in MC and BB upgrade, go for 99-00 si MC and BB. you can pick up remanufactured ones with lifetime warranties for ~$350 from kragen/shucks/autozone</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's the straight dope on the prop valves! Not a well-known fact.

I have the ITR booster/mc on my 98 hatch, it DID require bending lines. Also you'll find you have to take the mc off the booster to install it, but that's super easy. I think the ITR is 1" and the Si is 15/16", but the Si probably will work just fine.

 

so the gsr mc and bb requires bending lines just as the type r one? i want to make sure because i am just going to let the shop take care of that. well i have money its just that i dont want to waste money if its the same thing and the same bending well let me know what i should get i dont really want the si one i prefer going gsr or itr i think the mc is bigger but i could be wrong. so if you guys can tell me what to pick i just want this taken care of asap i just want to finish this 5 lug it has been 8 months that i been trying to bolt this on i started out with the jdm itr and the axles would not fit because i had to bolt it on to my sohc because i blew my gsr so i sold it for 800 w/axles and i got a usdm one and now its on my car and i just want to finish it because i wasted too much time and money looking for stuff and i still have not finished let me know what i can do thanks everyone for helping me out by the way i have a 96 coupe not hatch thanks

 

anyone?

 

If his DX is a 96-00 hatch, then the prop' valves are the same as the 99/00 Si's. You can even check the part #'s out at the dealership. I have no idea why, but yeah...

On my buddy's EK, we never changed anythin'. His car still stopped on a dime. But I still do recommend replacing the booster/MC at least.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmekrsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the gsr mc and bb requires bending lines just as the type r one? i want to make sure because i am just going to let the shop take care of that. well i have money its just that i dont want to waste money if its the same thing and the same bending well let me know what i should get i dont really want the si one i prefer going gsr or itr i think the mc is bigger but i could be wrong. so if you guys can tell me what to pick i just want this taken care of asap i just want to finish this 5 lug it has been 8 months that i been trying to bolt this on i started out with the jdm itr and the axles would not fit because i had to bolt it on to my sohc because i blew my gsr so i sold it for 800 w/axles and i got a usdm one and now its on my car and i just want to finish it because i wasted too much time and money looking for stuff and i still have not finished let me know what i can do thanks everyone for helping me out by the way i have a 96 coupe not hatch thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

hilarious!

how much caffeine do you drink?

 

too much cant you tell

 

it's a coupe, he needs a prop valve. either a ek hatch or 99-00 (exact same part) would be the easiest one... no bending of the brake lines necessary cept maybe to whatever MC he's using...

 

$650 for those parts new?!?!?! good god man!!!

anyway, I agree with klunge.

 

Some people said ITR BB and MC bolts right into 6th gen chassis, some said the lines require bending? I am confused....

Someone is selling ITR BB and MC for 200 CDN, and also SiR/Si BB and MC for 100. I am not sure if ITR is worth the effort to get for SiR 4 wheel disc conversion on 2000 hatch.

Sorry if this seemed like thread hijacking, I apologize in advance.

 

The jdm unit requires bending of the lines because the holes on the mc are on the wrong side (because its on the other side of the firewall on rhd).

passwordjdm.com sells itr bb/mc for good prices - call and ask for leo. Theyre MUCH MUCH less than $650......

I have written a how-to jdm itr bb/mc -
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=818263

 

So, USDM 01 ITR BB and MC will bolt on directly to 00 DX Hatch without any bending or modification.

Is the above statement true? If so, I am getting that set. Thanks guys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nova_Dust &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, USDM 01 ITR BB and MC will bolt on directly to 00 DX Hatch without any bending or modification.

Is the above statement true? If so, I am getting that set. Thanks guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good question! Anyone know the answer for sure?

 

That does make sense on the USDM/JDM parts theory. One of the lines IIRC comes out the top, that didn't need much bending but the other one on mine is on the other side. The seller never specified that it was a JDM unit but I suppose it could be. How cool is that, I'm JDM without even trying to be. Wow!