Need Brake Help PLEASE
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Need Brake Help PLEASE
Did a GS-R motor swap and brake swap last weekend along with a 96 LS brake booster, RS master cylinder and proportioning valve. I am having a problem with the brakes. When I start driving the pedal feels fine. It then it progressively gets stiffer to the point that the pedal won't push down, the brakes lock up and the car cannot be driven or moved.
Since the brake booster is from an LS,which presumably had ABS, is it not compatible with a Non-ABS RS master cylinder? Are the rods from the master too long for the LS Booster? Are there any other factors that could contribute to this? The brakes were definitely bled properly by a tech here at work, and the lines are brand new steel braided Earls lines.
Yes I did say I worked at a shop, but it is a Dodge shop and they aren't as familiar with Honda/Acura products as they are our own brand. Please help, I have yet to be able to enjoy my engine/brake swaps.
Since the brake booster is from an LS,which presumably had ABS, is it not compatible with a Non-ABS RS master cylinder? Are the rods from the master too long for the LS Booster? Are there any other factors that could contribute to this? The brakes were definitely bled properly by a tech here at work, and the lines are brand new steel braided Earls lines.
Yes I did say I worked at a shop, but it is a Dodge shop and they aren't as familiar with Honda/Acura products as they are our own brand. Please help, I have yet to be able to enjoy my engine/brake swaps.
#2
Sounds like you have the brake booster check valve in backwards. It's on a hose going from the back of the intake manifold to the top of the Brake booster. The check valve is somewhere closer to the manifold. Check to see it the arrow is pointing towards the engine.Did you mess with it. Or could be a leaking brake booster.
Ok do this test, with the engine off pump the brakes 3 times and hold it. start the car will holding the brake pedal. Once engine has started the pedal should slowly go down, you'll feel it. If not check the check valve and the booster.
Ok do this test, with the engine off pump the brakes 3 times and hold it. start the car will holding the brake pedal. Once engine has started the pedal should slowly go down, you'll feel it. If not check the check valve and the booster.
#3
Re: (sleepN)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like you have the brake booster check valve in backwards. It's on a hose going from the back of the intake manifold to the top of the Brake booster. The check valve is somewhere closer to the manifold. Check to see it the arrow is pointing towards the engine.Did you mess with it. Or could be a leaking brake booster.
Ok do this test, with the engine off pump the brakes 3 times and hold it. start the car will holding the brake pedal. Once engine has started the pedal should slowly go down, you'll feel it. If not check the check valve and the booster. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont think the brake booster is leaking (pressure). when i did my brakewap, i accidentally forgot to put the clamp back on. no pressure was built. you are using the right proportion valve? 4040. the brake booster doenst matter, its fromt he master cylinder and on where you dont want to mix and match abs and non parts. i to think its the cehck valve. charecteristics, pressure build up, cant pass pressure the opposing way... check the valve, switch directions and see if it helps.
Ok do this test, with the engine off pump the brakes 3 times and hold it. start the car will holding the brake pedal. Once engine has started the pedal should slowly go down, you'll feel it. If not check the check valve and the booster. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont think the brake booster is leaking (pressure). when i did my brakewap, i accidentally forgot to put the clamp back on. no pressure was built. you are using the right proportion valve? 4040. the brake booster doenst matter, its fromt he master cylinder and on where you dont want to mix and match abs and non parts. i to think its the cehck valve. charecteristics, pressure build up, cant pass pressure the opposing way... check the valve, switch directions and see if it helps.
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (sleepN)
You are talking about #7 in the diagram, correct? Its possible for this to be installed backward? I will have to go to my work in a few to go check it out. I will also do the test you said to see the result. Thanks.
I do have the correct prop valve, its from a 95 Integra RS.
Does anyone else have any input as far as possible failures, or mismatches in parts?
I do have the correct prop valve, its from a 95 Integra RS.
Does anyone else have any input as far as possible failures, or mismatches in parts?
#5
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Location: olympia, wa, usa
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Re: Need Brake Help PLEASE (JRSC EM1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRSC EM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It then it progressively gets stiffer to the point that the pedal won't push down, the brakes lock up and the car cannot be driven or moved.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like a pushrod adjustment problem...... check he pushrod clearance on the booster
</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like a pushrod adjustment problem...... check he pushrod clearance on the booster
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Need Brake Help PLEASE (solo2slocivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo2slocivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
sounds like a pushrod adjustment problem...... check he pushrod clearance on the booster </TD></TR></TABLE>
Where is the adjustment for it on the Booster? Is it internal or external? Is the adjuster a screw?
sounds like a pushrod adjustment problem...... check he pushrod clearance on the booster </TD></TR></TABLE>
Where is the adjustment for it on the Booster? Is it internal or external? Is the adjuster a screw?
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Need Brake Help PLEASE (JRSC EM1)
Is it a 12 point on the backside of the booster so adjustment is from under the dash? Other than the brakes not locking up on me, how will I know when it has been adjusted enough?
Modified by JRSC EM1 at 4:25 PM 11/8/2003
Modified by JRSC EM1 at 4:25 PM 11/8/2003
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#9
Re: Need Brake Help PLEASE (JRSC EM1)
according to the del sol service manual i have, it says the distance between the back of the master cylinder (from where the 4 screws come back toward the firewall); the distance between that and the center of the clevis pin should be about 116 + or - .5 mm (4.6 +- .02 inches)
when i swapped to my itr brake booster, the distance was the exact same. (just the booster pertruded outward more)
when i swapped to my itr brake booster, the distance was the exact same. (just the booster pertruded outward more)
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Need Brake Help PLEASE (phantom_sol)
Mine must be protruding out quite a bit more in order to lock up my brakes. I will check the distance and do the adjustment. You said the distance between the back of the master cyl where the 4 screws come out and the clevis pin, did you mean the booster where the 4 screws come out and the clevis pin? Is the clevis pin you mentioned the shaft inside of the booster that goes into the master cyl? Or is the clevis pin something you would have to look inside the front of the booster to see?
#11
Re: Need Brake Help PLEASE (JRSC EM1)
oh dude i'm sorry, i meant the brake booster
from the part that actually sites against the fire wall, to the clevis pin. the piece that sits against the firewall (it has the 4 screws that sit through the firewall etc.... its real easy.
crawl under the petal assembly, 4 bolts (each supposed to be torques to 9lb) so its real easy to take out. undo clevis pin. th ehardest part of the whole thing is probably the cotter pin. unfortunately this may also require you disconnecting brake lines and or taknig master cylinder off. because it has to be measure when the brake booster os out of the car. i will try to scan the page in for you sometime. and post so you have a visual aid.
sorry if what i'm suggesting is a little more work than you intended. but hey, if its not working then might as well trouble shoot as much as possible.
from the part that actually sites against the fire wall, to the clevis pin. the piece that sits against the firewall (it has the 4 screws that sit through the firewall etc.... its real easy.
crawl under the petal assembly, 4 bolts (each supposed to be torques to 9lb) so its real easy to take out. undo clevis pin. th ehardest part of the whole thing is probably the cotter pin. unfortunately this may also require you disconnecting brake lines and or taknig master cylinder off. because it has to be measure when the brake booster os out of the car. i will try to scan the page in for you sometime. and post so you have a visual aid.
sorry if what i'm suggesting is a little more work than you intended. but hey, if its not working then might as well trouble shoot as much as possible.
#12
i just finished scanning everything, i emailed it to you. its best viewed at 150% but the text should still be clear. i hope this helps.
file size is 349kb is i did it all correctly
file size is 349kb is i did it all correctly
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